Aquarium stand advice

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I'd like to build an aquarium stand.  I'm thinking of using 1 1/2"x 14ga. sq. tubing to construct a frame.  I'll then cover this from in wood.  There will also be a 1/2 thick plywood top to the frame.  I'd like to build the frame bigger than the tank.  The frame will be 48"L x 24"W x 32"H.  The tank is 36"L x 18"W x 24"H and will weigh anywhere from 800lbs to 950lbs.This is what I'm planning on:Frame only front viewFrame, top and tank right side.  front is on the left.Does anyone have any advice or suggestions?  See any obvious flaws in my plan?Thanks!Jason
Reply:Some vertical bracing on the back or interior of the stand to prevent the top surface from deflecting under load?  Would be a shame if your tank cracked or a seam split during filling because the frame sagged in the middle under the weight of all that water.It's been too long since I was in college, but I remember that it is possible to calculate the deflection of the horizontal frame members under a distributed load.  Maybe another engineer who reads the forum could give you a sanity check on the design...-Dave
Reply:Great to see people putting so much thought into projects...What you've got looks great to me. If it were me, I'd omit the center member at the base and I'd put some sort of cross bracing on the two large sides, even if it's only some 3/8 or 1/2 " roundbar. If I understand correctly, it'll be covered with wood anyways. Cross bracing really makes things rigid.
Reply:I could put a vertical along the back (right side of 2nd pic) in the center.  I need to keep the front open as much as possible to allow access the the filtration equipment that will take most of the inside.  I could use some angled pieces in the corners though. It will be covered but besides the top and maybe a half height back piece the covering will be cosmetic panels held in place with super strong magnets.  I do plan on firmly securing the top and the back if I use a piece of wood to cover the back.  I'll need to allow the stand to breath a bit so I can't fully cover the back.Last edited by dedfish; 11-20-2007 at 10:30 PM.
Reply:I would run diagonal gussetts on all vertical members to keep the tank from trying to "parallelogram" on you.
Reply:Maybe add a single vertical tube right in the center on the back, and then don't worry about shear or twist- make sure your plywood skin is 1/2", and screw it to the steel every 8". You'll have one super stiff shear panel box.  And, to go with what Supe said, make sure the welds are 4 sided, not just 2 side. It will stiffen each section immensely. And after that, the plywood on the top will keep any twist from happening. Easy stuff, you have it made!!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:triangulate the top center downward to the lower outer edges to make a " /\ " shape. Do the front and the rear.
Reply:add at least one diagonal piece on the back/front and on at least one side... if something were to push it, your stand may fail with it's current design... also, maybe think about some adjustable feet... in case youhave an un-even surface or one side gets put on carpet andthe other on a hard floor... jsut a thought... other than that, make sure everything is sqare and true and you should be good to go.Later,Andy
Reply:Originally Posted by turboblowntriangulate the top center downward to the lower outer edges to make a " /\ " shape. Do the front and the rear.
Reply:Glad to see another fish geek.  I would X the ends, put gussets on the front and back.  They should  be small enough not to interfere with installing your sump, and filtration systems.  The X will stop any movement front and back and the gussets should with the wood stop any other movement.   From your dem. you should have a 67 gallon tank.  Depending on if you are going DSB ( 40-60lbs) and LR ( approx 65-75lbs.)  I guess you are around 770 lbs with extra and water.  Your stand should be fine.  Now that I think about it.  If you just bolt (screw) the wood to the sides of the stand and even if you only bolt the wood covering the back so that the whole half of the bottom is covered.  you should be able to get away with your original design.  On a side note, I would like to know what SW fish you keep.  Are you making a reef tank?
Reply:Thanks for all the advice everyone.Yes this tank will be a reef tank.  It'll be the reef tank I've always wanted with all the right equipment.  It's a 70gal Oceanic Tech tank.  It has a starphire glass front and is reef ready.  Currently I have a smaller 36bow front reef.  In that I have 2 clowns, a Randall's goby and a Stary blenny.  Mostly soft corals such as torch, tree corals, mushrooms, zoas, candy cane etc.  I don't have a sump for that tank and rely on all hang on tank equipment.
Reply:I would weld some L-brackets around the top to keep the aquarium in place. Other than that, why are you making the base bigger than the tank? I made mine to fit the tank exactly for a cleaner look and put a shelf underneath for storing my fishy stuff.Love welding?  http://industrial-tools-equipment.com
Reply:I would guess due to he has a Bow front tank.  So unless he builds a bow front stand he would have to go larger to make sure it is all on the stand with no overhang.
Reply:I'm building it bigger so I have enough room to put all the filtration equipment underneath and I'd also like to be able to use this stand when I upgrade.
Reply:All done welding...only finish work left to do.
Reply:Looks good.  Do not forget to post when you have the tank up.
Reply:Looks nice bro! Love welding?  http://industrial-tools-equipment.com