Dozer grouser build up?

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I have a small D20 Komatsu dozer and I'd like to weld some 5/16 mild steel bar to the track grousers.  I need some advice with the basics.  1) Will I need to bevel the bar or can I just butt it to the grouser and weld it?2) Will I need to run a bead on both sides of the bar?3) Do I need to preheat the grouser first?I have a Lincoln PM 180 and was planning to use the .045 liner kit and Innershield wire.  I could also run .035 flux core or solid wire with either C25 or CO2 if that would be better?  Thanks for helping a newbie welder.
Reply:Originally Posted by Orchard ExI have a small D20 Komatsu dozer and I'd like to weld some 5/16 mild steel bar to the track grousers.  I need some advice with the basics.  1) Will I need to bevel the bar or can I just butt it to the grouser and weld it?2) Will I need to run a bead on both sides of the bar?3) Do I need to preheat the grouser first?I have a Lincoln PM 180 and was planning to use the .045 liner kit and Innershield wire.  I could also run .035 flux core or solid wire with either C25 or CO2 if that would be better?  Thanks for helping a newbie welder.
Reply:I usually use 7018, or 5/64" NR-211(.045 soild and CO2 if I am inside), but since you have a smaller machine the .045 NR-211, or solid wire and C02.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Looks like they said it all.It might be easier if you can make the welds in the flat position.David.  Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Much easier in flat position. I once welded on new cleats on my dad's D-2 cat , he bought the correct stock for that job from a Cat dealer. (it's hard stuff . all ready beveled some and you just cut it to length. He jacked up the D-2 and would rotate the tracks so i could weld the front and rear cleat flat . I had to preheat the grouser pad , then tack it quick and then weld it . Used 70-18 . dealer RECommended 80-18 , but it cost too much , at that time . My net cost AT THAT time for 70-18 was 24.97 cents a pound for (tax included ) 5/32 . I got it at cost from my employer -  KAISER Steel . good ole days , huh ?  ( the tacks kept cracking, until i preheated them, after that, a piece of cake .)[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:Thanks for the replies.  Roy and David, rotating the tracks and welding on the flat was what I was thinking too.  Pulled the new gun liner out of the bag marked "for .045 wire" but the bushing is marked .035 .9mm.  Guess that helps with the decision until I can get Lincoln to send a replacement.  Thanks again to all, Ive been lurking for a while trying to learn.
Reply:Conventional grousers or the LGP on that d20?? This will be an interesting project for ya. You should be able to weld like crazy once you get set up and get a scheme going.  I can see some duty cycle issues developing here .. Have fun.I would be interested knowing if you encounter any bead cracking issues tho. You may want to try a few sample styles before going wide open.Last edited by Sandy; 02-15-2008 at 08:55 PM.
Reply:Mild steel I wouldn't worry about.  The ones Roy Hogdes did were probably hardened steel.  When my dad them on bigger equipment, he heated the bar stock.  Its a good job.  Ask him since you have a MIG if he needs the rolls and idlers built up too.    And some one said duty cycle.  Ditto.   Read the label on the machine if you have any questions.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:It's the standard track, about 11 1/2 inches across.  It's been a good little unit.  I'm hoping to get a good system figured out when I go at it.  Let's see, 37 pads per track, a bead on each side of the bar, times 2 tracks...  Got to bring the padded chair and get comfy I think.  What do you think, do a test one or two, let it cool down and hit it with the BFH to see if it stays or departs?  I'll watch out on the duty cycle, rated for 30% wide open IIRC.  I'll take frequent breaks LOL.  Weldgault mentioned about "no need to preheat if it's not freezing".  I'll be working in an open shed (or an unheated barn at best), how cold would be too cold of an ambient temp?
Reply:The cleats i welded on were special HARD stock. Something to think about . Yours is obviously worn. If you are NOT going to use the tractor much, mild steel is maybe O K .  But, the hardened cleats you have on the tractor are worn  down, and if you're going to use it much, the new mild steel cleats will wear out quick. can you live with replacing them often ?  By the way, I used my trusty SA-250 diesel to weld on the cleats, never had to worry about any duty cycle . ( it's rated at 60% @250 amps ) it's hard to weld more than 60 % of the time .Last edited by Roy Hodges; 02-16-2008 at 12:04 AM.Reason: spelling[SIZE="5"Yardbird"
Reply:You might try a couple of circular concave tacks, or short tacks with a crater at the end, then let it cool and look for cracks. Usually with hardened steels and e71T-11 they'll show real early on. The mild steel that you will be using will help dilute the weldment. I'm guessing you'll be more than fine as long as you keep a good mixture with each pass and don't try any huge weave 'n fill things. Just hate to see it go south with out a test first is all. It certainly wouldn't hurt to have those tracks about 60º or 70º.
Reply:Roy, I've seen the grouser bar that you're talking about.  If I used the dozer more I'd sure buy it, but I probably don't put 100 hours a year on it.  It almost never works in rocky ground.  It's paid for and darn handy for grading out yards and new driveways and such, but if I was working it more I'd trade for a newer unit with power-shift or hydro trans (prob. a D31 size too).  It needs new rollers soon and the chain is down to about 25% so this is a temporary fix until it either gets traded or gets a new undercarriage. Sandy, I'll try a couple tacks first and see how it goes.  Maybe I can find a bullet heater or something to point at the tracks and bring the temp up some.  Thanks for all the tips it's much appreciated!
Reply:While you've got it up, check those rollers/sleeves that run on the sprocket. Check for concavity and/or dents. They'll wear paper thin then cave in and the sharpened sprocket point will get hung up in there. You've probably researched all this already tho.Last edited by Sandy; 02-16-2008 at 01:11 AM.