Stick welding problems

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I have a few questions and figured many people here have much more experience than me.  I have a Craftsman 35-230 AC Amp Output stick welder at home and I've been using the past month or so and my welds have had alot of slag in them.  Right after I finish a weld they look okay, but when I chip away the slag a lot falls off.  After I chip off the rest of the porous looking stuff(sorry for the lack of welding lingo) I'm left with a bunch of holes.  I don't know if this has to do with the welding rods I'm using or b/c I'm don't have alot of experience.  Is there a certain type of welding rods I should stay away from, or stick with?There are two holes to plug the welding rod cord into: Minimum line draw and Maximum arc stability.  I have it plugged into Maximum arc stability and I have the dual range dial right in the middle just around 80 amps.  I'm welding 1" square tubing on a go cart frame and can't seem to get the welds good.  Like I said they are very blotchy and full of slag.  How can I get the "row of dimes" looking welds? I know it takes experience, but I just want to make sure I'm starting out right.   I'd greatly appreciate input b/c I'm getting pretty annoyed with the result I'm getting.
Reply:I had a similiar problem when I first started playing around stick welding. First of all, make sure you have the right rod for the AC machine. Once you're sure, try shortening you're arc length. Push the rod in tight with a shorter arc and really watch the puddle. I still have a long way to go, but my welding improved ten fold when I got this advice.
Reply:Go for either a smooth straight weld, or weave, and on pieces that small just stick with a straight smooth weld, pictures would be helpful, as well as what rod you are currently using.
Reply:if your running something like a 7018 rod that hasnt been stored correctly, or been wet you will get holes like that (porosity). theres a bunch of threads on here right now about properly storing a 7018...Also if your heat isnt right or your moving to slow with something like a 6013 rod those holes could be slag inclusions. make sure your metal is always clean and bare before you weld too, no dirt, rust, slag, any of these can cause you to get porosity too. get us some pics of your welds and let us know what kinda rods you haveI like to party!
Reply:What rod are you using and what size?Forget the stack of dimes.  Just weld it!I am guessing too long of an arc.   It should be no bigger than the diameter of the electrode.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Get some 6011 and 6013 rod, 3/32" or 1/8". The 6011 will be the easier to learn with. Remember in welding " cleanliness is next to godliness" as I was told long ago. 6011 will handle some scale or rust or whatever but 6013 really doesn't like dirty metal. Forget all about a "stack of dimes" and try for smooth and steady. That is the way both of these rods were designed to run. 6013 will produce a much smoother bead than 6011.
Reply:I got the pack of welding rods from Sears Hardware and the brand is US Forge Steel.  It says unlike 6011,6013 and 7018 these rods are made for professional welders.(whatever that means)   But the package doesn't say exactly what ## they are, they are 3/32" diameter though.  Maybe I'll go out and buy a set of 6011's and see if that works better.I'll post some pics this weekend.Last edited by miacc; 02-19-2008 at 08:13 PM.
Reply:Got any pics? It could be as simple as moving to much at 1 time and moving inconsistantly. We'll help you all we can but if you have access to a person that can weld have them watch you make a few bead. You'll learn more in 10 minutes watching and being watched than hours of reading.
Reply:I finally got to take some pictures this weekend.  These pictures were BEFORE I bought 6011 rods like some of you recommended (which work much better).  I'm not quite sure why I get so many holes in my weld.  I've been doing the little circle pattern, but I must be doing something wrong.  Any pointers you can give me from what you see?Also, on this picture as you can see, after I chip off the slag I have a lot of weld on the top of piece and the bottom but not in the middle, why is that?  One last thing, as you can see in the picture below this is an example of how my welds come out.  You can see the porous little holes in the middle, it's almost a guarantee every weld I make has that in it. Ideas?
Reply:By the way, this is what all this frustration and hard work is going into.
Reply:you need to clean that metal alot more for starters. then I'd say stop doing the circle motion, probably need more heat as well to keep from getting those slag inclusions.I like to party!
Reply:im gonna  guess that  those  'professional rods" look  a  lot  like  a  jet  rod...best  welded flat...hot  and   drag...no  circular  motion...with a  drag  rod you must  never  move out of  the  puddle or  you get  results  like  that..it  fills  gaps  poorly  and must  be  clean before  startingif  you bought  6011..you  can  work it  back and  forth or  circles (tight) but  you must  be  careful on that  light  tubing...burn  through can happen fast...a  rod  like  6013 3/32 would  be a  good  choice (in my opinion..and  that  dont  mean much here) you  can  drag it and  if  you  are  welding  flat..with a little  practice  you  can  get  good  results  early
Reply:The holes look like you are either sucking in contaminants or letting flux run under the bead. But it could be something else. On the overlapping joint set your heat for the heavy piece and concentrate your weld on the heavier piece letting the puddle flow into the smaller piece. For small stuff like you are working on I have always used 3/32 6011 with an ac machine.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Just my guess,  you are not staying out of the puddle and the slag is engulfing the rod at certain points, hence the hole of slag.  You need a short arc with 6013, but not in the puddle.  Use two hand on the electrode, it might be easier to feed more steadily.What are your amps.  Concentrate more heat on the flat surface rather than the edge.When you consisently find the puddle things will be better.Also, if you decide to grind make sure you have something to grind away, Vee before welding, otherwise a nice cracking point.Also, make sure all welder fittings/cable are clean and tight.
Reply:Looks like you need a little more heat.  Can you SEE the puddle?  If you look closly, you will be able to see the slag from the metal.  Tilting the rod so it points back to the starting point a little (20*) will help keep the slag out.And what was said above.Practice more before you finish the cart.  Post pictures and we will help.Like they asked, How many amps are you using?DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:US Forge Steel sounds suspiciously like Chinese, and with that stuff there is no telling what you are getting. Definitely not a name brand, and from experience you are better off using the name brands for your electrodes. Lincoln, Harris, McKay, Uniweld, ESAB (but leave the atom arc 7018 alone) just to name a few. For small quantities I really like the Harris as you can get it in 5lb tubes. Lowes and Home Depot both sell Lincoln in 5 and 10lb boxes as well as small packs like 5 electrodes or so.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.