welding in a port?

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Recently I've been working on modifying my Toyota truck with a 22RE engine. The port design is very poor and I did some extensive port reshaping to make it better, this included grinding out one side of the port and filling in the other side with epoxy.Now that I have it all back together and running I keep questioning myself on how long the epoxy will last.My question, is it possible to build weld up inside the port instead of using epoxy? If so How would I go about it?I was thinking of using a flux core mig setup with no nozzle around the tip? Feasable?Don't talk about it, Just do it!
Reply:Is it aluminum or cast?If you don't want to stand behind our Troops, feel free to stand in front of them.
Reply:It's an aluminum head.Don't talk about it, Just do it!
Reply:Originally Posted by VicoorRecently I've been working on modifying my Toyota truck with a 22RE engine. The port design is very poor and I did some extensive port reshaping to make it better, this included grinding out one side of the port and filling in the other side with epoxy.Now that I have it all back together and running I keep questioning myself on how long the epoxy will last.My question, is it possible to build weld up inside the port instead of using epoxy? If so How would I go about it?I was thinking of using a flux core mig setup with no nozzle around the tip? Feasable?
Reply:Is this the same intake you have been working on all along?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by VicoorI was thinking of using a flux core mig setup with no nozzle around the tip? Feasable?
Reply:Originally Posted by SWellsIs it aluminum or cast?
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelson1-Epoxy will have a definite life to it. When it begins to let go, then the engine chews on it. Heads expand and contract, a bunch. The epoxy does not expand and contract at the same rate, causing de-lamination. If this epoxy is in an exhaust port, it won't be there-long. IOW--J.B. Weld isn't worth squat inside a head.
Reply:Originally Posted by VicoorI used "magic seal" epoxy  from manley products, It's supposed to be for intake port modifications and my research revealed somewhat mixed feedback but substantially more positive than negative.Yes, Aluminum flux core, and I did do the intake, but right now I'm asking about the welding in the intake ports on the head.I just can't imagine using a tig to weld inside the port. But it seeems that if I had a cupless mig with fluxcore wire then it should be able to reach most of the port. and possibly with a bent tip it would even be better.
Reply:I should also have mentioned, that evidence of electrolysis inside the alum. head casting, as seen thru the water passages, makes welding it questionable.If heavy pitting is noticed, the same-unseen--is present around the ports, etc. Welding can break right thru those thin, corroded areas--or the heat cycling in use, creates leaks. Welding on ports leaking from electrolysis, is a short term fix--at the best.Blackbird
Reply:I really appriciate the insight, The head I just finished was in fact new, however I've been looking at the head I took off and thinking I could see what I could do for that one. If I were to do any welding, it would be on areas that are of the original cast thickness, not to repair, but just to build up for reshaping. While optimal penetration is always desireable, I'm thinking as long as it "sticks good" since it won't really be subject to loads it should be OK.You mention specialty torches for mig, Is there somewhere online I could browse a slection of these?Once again thanks for the info and your opinion on these matters.Don't talk about it, Just do it!
Reply:Cylinder head temperatures can reach 1400º inside, and 1100º outside the combustion chamber. The epoxy will probably only last a few minutes.The epoxy could just plug up the exhaust.Cylinder heads should be TIG welded to keep the heat input low to prevent warpage.
Reply:Originally Posted by VicoorI really appriciate the insight, The head I just finished was in fact new, however I've been looking at the head I took off and thinking I could see what I could do for that one. If I were to do any welding, it would be on areas that are of the original cast thickness, not to repair, but just to build up for reshaping. While optimal penetration is always desireable, I'm thinking as long as it "sticks good" since it won't really be subject to loads it should be OK.You mention specialty torches for mig, Is there somewhere online I could browse a slection of these?Once again thanks for the info and your opinion on these matters.
Reply:All the answers you need are answered in the above replys. However porting epoxy will give a decent result in inlet ports as a result of the cooling action due to all the cool air passing through the inlet port. Exhaust ports should never be epoxied the temp of the exh. gas 1000f-1300f will kill it very quickly. Don't be fooled however with the big temp numbers the actual casting temp is rarely over 400f. Simple proof of that is if the aluminum casting were to see these 1100-1300f. temps the casting would be melted! I weld inlet and exhaust ports daily on all types of heads and with proper cleaning and pre heat to drive out all moisture you can be assured of a much better outcome with welding than any type of epoxy goo.ric
Reply:Question about the 22RE - how much of the engine is aluminum.  I have two 4runners - one a 3vze the other 22re.  They are not running right now but the scrap yard is paying 70 cents a lb for aluminum.  Im going to pillage as much as i can from these trucks and was wondering.