Jeep Frame again! with photos

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Here are a few pictures of the Jeep I am converting into a mini-dumptruck.  The question I am dealing with is "How do I weld a support tube from the original Jeep frame up to the 2x4 subframe tube for the dump body? (Right where the angle is clamped)"  As you can see we already stretched the frame.  Also you can see we have a fishplate on the outside tube and there is a longer one on the inside of the tube.  I have been going back and forth in my head as to how to weld this joint without creating a lot more stress and a potential for cracking.  I was also possibly thinking about bolting the piece to the frame.  I am just trying to figure out the best way to do it.  These are my questions.  I need your suggestions.  Thanks!Lohr Attached Images
Reply:Well  would'nt you just put a vertical 2x4 from frame to "dump frame?Then weld a gusset thats cut to fit the transition of the frame and "dump frame" on the left side of photo 2.  A channel gusset that is. weld it like you own it
Reply:I actually want to come right down from the corner of the subframe with a 2x4 tube and weld it into the fishplate but I don't now if that is going to create way to much stress and heat at that joint.Thanks Lohr
Reply:Looks like your sub frame is 2/5ths froward of the frame hump and 3/5ths back if not more. You will have a lot of uplift at that forward brace/joint when you put the body up. How big a dump bed are you planning and how much weight do you plan on it holding? I see some serious issues if the tailgate gets jammed or you forget to pop the gate. Most dumps don't overhang the rear wheels as much as you are showing. They are seldom more than say 1/5th of the bed length past the wheels if that.I'm wondering if there might have been a better way to do this since you chopped that frame already. I would have looked at just building the whole rear section and skipped the funky frame member, probably going to leaf springs.Usually if you put a body on a truck frame with bends you insert blocking so the subframe is flat. In all the trucks I have worked on it's seldom more than 2-3" between the main frame and the sub frame. You then secure the frames together with U bolts or strap plates to keep the subframe down. That tall height is going to work against you. I would consider the 2x4 post and then plate the whole thing solid on both sides from the post to the bent frame at the top to stiffen the assembly. My other thought is that the bend should have been as tight to the cab as posible and then the axle attached to the subframe if this makes sense.I also think your joint where the frame was spliced may fail if you have a decent load and put the body up. The front end will want to lift due to the leverage behind the rear wheels and that joint will try and bend under the weight of the engine/ front hanging as a counterweight up front.BTW this makes a lot more sense than your first post with the unreadable scan.Good luck.
Reply:If I had to do it again I would have extended the mid frame more.Having said that the jeep is more for toolin around.It just seamed like a unique project and not intended for any heavy work.I am going to shorten the over hang some more but I am really concerned with that weld joint Thanks Lohr
Reply:Add some cross members near or under the cab and tie into that.  I did'nt see the sub frame ends at the coil spring.   I feel you just dont need a pivot point in that area. weld it like you own it
Reply:Oh yeah make a roll cage behind the cab   and you could use that too to tie in. weld it like you own it
Reply:Originally Posted by lewrayAdd some cross members near or under the cab and tie into that.  I did'nt see the sub frame ends at the coil spring.   I feel you just dont need a pivot point in that area.
Reply:I live in the Scranton area. Thanks Lohr
Reply:Looks like you are pretty much committed in the direction you've started. Maybe not ideal for the overall size and weight capabilities what  the heck. Not to be critical but I just don't see you putting any big heavy loads in there unless it's lead. There won't be room. Go with what you've got.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyLooks like you are pretty much committed in the direction you've started. Maybe not ideal for the overall size and weight capabilities what  the heck. Not to be critical but I just don't see you putting any big heavy loads in there unless it's lead. There won't be room. Go with what you've got.
Reply:Maybe not ideal for the overall size and weight capabilities what the heck.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyLooks like you are pretty much committed in the direction you've started. Maybe not ideal for the overall size and weight capabilities what  the heck. Not to be critical but I just don't see you putting any big heavy loads in there unless it's lead. There won't be room. Go with what you've got.
Reply:1 1/3 yds would be 5000lbs+. Again dirt would be heavier. Also ever see anyone load a wheelbarrow even with the sides? If you mound it up you can add even more weight.
Reply:Actually I see the frame on the axle if he got that much weight loaded in it. I seriously doubt those springs will come close to those weights if they are stock.The big worry for moving to launch position is when the body starts to go up and the weight shifts to the rear, especially if you forget to pop the gate.I have a feeling this is more along the lines of an oversized lawn cart for moving small brush, maybe some firewood or a small amount of mulch.It should make in interesting vehicle when completed and I am looking forward to seeing it finished.Oh BTW you need to get a Bulldog for your hood when you finish and maybe some Mack emblems for the sides. That should turn some heads.  Train horns and marker lights for the roof also, maybe a set of california truck mirrors. I know, duallies for the Jeep!