What type of welder for this auto body repair? MIG or O/A

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Well I am going to learn to weld. Got to start somewhere... I've had a handful of around the house stuff that has made me think the thought, "If I only had a welder". And now I've got two vehicles that are slowly rusting away in my driveway. They are both 84's and are diesels (GMC 6.2 Diesel Suburban, and Mercedes 300d turbo diesel) that run great but like anything old that's been kept outside and driven in winters, they're slowly fading away because of rust and I'd like to squeak another 10 years out of them.All that said, I'm excited. I'm 28 and have been interested in welding since I was a kid. I'm pretty mechanical and am an Electric Engineer by degree. I've always been a get it done kid. Make it if you don't have it or rig it if you can't afford to fix it with a new part. So... a welder is going to a invaluable tool!! Time to get one.Anyways, here is my first project (rusted wheel wells on the MB and rusted out hole in the door panel on my suburban). Where do I start?Here are my questions:1. From reading, I'm guessing MIG is the easiest form of welding for body work. I've also read Oxy Acetylene is what people used in the olden days. That is also something I may be interested in because I can pickup an old rig (estate deal) locally for around $350 (tanks, torch, hoses, regulators). But I've also read it's hard to do. I don't know much about it.2. If I do go MIG, I'm guessing I need something that'll be low AMPs for that thin of material. I also only have a couple 220V connections so 110V may be easier for me. But what do I need if I go MIG? If I buy used, should I expect problems if I buy a major brand (Hobart, Miller, Lincoln). I'm guessing I'll have to spend another $100-200 in tanks hoses etc. Should I expect to pay around $700 when all is said and done if I get a 130A - 140A model? That's expensive for me, maybe I could get by with O/A??? Can I do heavier steel with O/A than I could do with a 110V MIG3. Where do I get steel stock? Sheet Metal for the car?4. What kind of basic tools would I need to shape the metal?Thanks so much!!!! I'm very much looking forward to learning the trade!Nicklastly... there are also rust holes in the floor board (almost like a line was cut out along the front edge of the back seat and the line continues along the edge of the floor near the passenger door). It's about a 10" line on both openings. A big L shaped rusted out. Attached ImagesLast edited by nicksorenson; 08-11-2008 at 09:50 AM.
Reply:You can do all your light auto work with a 110v mig. It is really well suited for it. You can find them with a bottle used for a couple hundred bucks, and they usually last and are very reliable machines. Use.023/.025 wire, it will make smaller beads for you, less grinding work. As for metal, any metal supply shop will have sheet for you to buy, many times in the scrap pile for cheap!! For metal tools for shaping metal, the sky is the limit. Small stuff, dead blow hammers, leather hammers, anvil, vise, hand benders, snips, etc. And from there it goes to english wheels for bigger shaping jobs. You can find the tools at many metal supply houses, and online. For metal work, look up Ron Fornier?? He is the metal working guru. I have no idea if he's the best, but I know he has several videos online, so that is a start at least!! Good luck, Paul.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Where in Missouri are you?It is good to put your city in the Location so'z members know where yer at- someone may be close  to you-willing to help out or have a machine for sale.You can probably snag a Door or Body panel from a Junk yard to practice on.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Try Tool King for re-conditioned Hobart units.http://www.toolking.com/category/too...d-welders.aspxHH 140 ( 120v)  $415.00If you can find a good deal on a used 120v it would work for the body.Although I would suggest looking at a 240v machine as you'll get twice the machine for just a fraction more $$.It will allow you a little more room for other projects. It will certainly work for the body & Floor pans.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:You're taking on quite a daunting task.  You'll need equipment to cut out the rusted sheet metal, form and install the repair patch panel, and then bondo, primer and paint topcoat system.  So, not only will you need welding equipment but also an air compressor and the related air-powered tools like grinder, sander and spray gun.  Eastwood.com would be a place for a complete newbie to start gathering info and tools.  And I mean LOTS of tools!  Just like a surgeon can't do an operation with only a scalpel, bodywork is not done with a weldor alone.You might also consider farming out those repairs to qualified professionals at your local bodyshop.WeldingWeb forum--now more sophomoric banter than anything else!
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Where in Missouri are you?It is good to put your city in the Location so'z members know where yer at- someone may be close  to you-willing to help out or have a machine for sale.You can probably snag a Door or Body panel from a Junk yard to practice on.
Reply:MIG would be the easiest process to use, oxy fuel and/or TIG offer more benefits for restoration but only if the user is skilled at metal shaping. Learning how to use oxy fuel properly would benefit you LOTS- you'll end up more skilled as a welder and a fabricator/metal shaperTools,... welder aside pretty much anything can be accomplished with a few hammers/mallets and dollies, some tin snips and time. Larger tools like wheeling machines speed up the process- depending on skill you can either make panels OR scrap more quickly. The only time saving tool i'd bother splashing out on initially is a mechanical shrinkerBefore you go any further i'd have a REAL good poke around that Merc if you haven't already. The W123's rot well and from the look of the lower rear edges of the front wings i'd be concerned about the front of the sills around the jacking points and nearby box sections. Front bulkheads around the battery tray are another favorite rot spotLeave things like door skin repairs for now, low crown panels are harder to repair well as they're FAR more prone to distortion. As Broccoli said, grab yourself a scrap panel or 2 to practice on- cut out a section and weld in a replacement, wail on it some and then straighten with hammers/dollies
Reply:Oh, and bear in mind that rust is always MUCH worse than it appears to be!
Reply:Ditto what Hotrodder posted, O/A has deffinate advantages, and is why its preferred by the high dollar professional shops. Invaluable for hot-working , forming, welding, brazing, etc. Not to mention the welds are much softer and easier to work out. Body tools....Ive seen some of the best work ever done, with simple hand tools. Power machines are for speed, not accuracy. Kent White is one of the best metalmen I know, he has a pretty good video on patch panels sold from his side company www.tinmantech.com. Oh on the torch, stay away from the "railroad" size, get something small like an aircraft type ( smith aw1a, harris 15, victor j series) or a Meco Midget. The henrob doesnt offer much advantage over a nice normal torch, just more expensive.
Reply:Originally Posted by hotrodderBefore you go any further i'd have a REAL good poke around that Merc if you haven't already. The W123's rot well and from the look of the lower rear edges of the front wings i'd be concerned about the front of the sills around the jacking points and nearby box sections. Front bulkheads around the battery tray are another favorite rot spot
Reply:All Super advise here. I do a lot of body and sheet metal repairs and I prefer the 110 mig for the job.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:Originally Posted by nicksorensonThanks! I have no idea what keeps my car structurally in one piece. I take it you're talking about watching for structural rust. Where do I look? I see that the jacking points are pretty rusty. But is there channel pipe that is the structure? What do I need to be concerned with structurally?
Reply:Originally Posted by nicksorensonThanks! I have no idea what keeps my car structurally in one piece. I take it you're talking about watching for structural rust. Where do I look? I see that the jacking points are pretty rusty. But is there channel pipe that is the structure? What do I need to be concerned with structurally?