6013 over the top of 6011?

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I am welding 1 1/2 x 1/8" square tube using a hobart lx stickmate which is AC only. I am using 6011 rod to get deep penetration. I have it set on 90 amps. I can't for the life of me get a good looking weld like I can when I use 6013. My question is can I go over the 6011 with 6013 to get a nice looking weld or will I screw up the strength of the weld? Thanks
Reply:They are rated as the same strength rod. The first two numbers in a rod designation are a rods tensile rating in thousands of pounds.Depending on how you are assembling this 1/8 wall tubing, and how well you weld with 6013, just use it alone...
Reply:I am using the 1 1/2 tubing to support a platform that I am welding on top of the frame of an F150 to make a hunting buggy so I need it to be strong. Can I go ahead and weld on top of the 6011 with 6013 or by heating it up again will I screw up the penetration that I obtained with the 6011? Thanks
Reply:You won't affect the penetration of the previous weld; just make sure to clean all the previous slag off before welding again. Because you are using mild steel which doesn't respond to heat treating, the second cycle won't do anything the first didn't already do. As stated above, you could have used the 6013 alone and if you weren't sure about getting being able to get enough penetration, you could have beveled the joints first and built them up a bit.
Reply:Originally Posted by TEKThey are rated as the same strength rod. The first two numbers in a rod designation are a rods tensile rating in thousands of pounds.Depending on how you are assembling this 1/8 wall tubing, and how well you weld with 6013, just use it alone...
Reply:Originally Posted by bigtI am using the 1 1/2 tubing to support a platform that I am welding on top of the frame of an F150 to make a hunting buggy so I need it to be strong. Can I go ahead and weld on top of the 6011 with 6013 or by heating it up again will I screw up the penetration that I obtained with the 6011? Thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by MatthewFirst two numbers are tensile strength..60,000. second is position, what is last digit? type of flux? how does that rating work?
Reply:I think you could go to 120 amps, for 1/8" rod, and just use the 6013. You will get full penetration if joints are prepped.I can't get a good looking weld with 6011 either.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI think you could go to 120 amps, for 1/8" rod, and just use the 6013. You will get full penetration if joints are prepped.I can't get a good looking weld with 6011 either.David
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI think you could go to 120 amps, for 1/8" rod, and just use the 6013. You will get full penetration if joints are prepped.I can't get a good looking weld with 6011 either.David
Reply:Donald, I have tried wipping the 6011 and I can do it, but I just run 7018 or mig for almost everything. I use 6013, but very little. Does that make me a low hydrogen snob?  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Probably does, David. If you are I am too. Weld it up with 7018 and it not only looks good, it don't break. Jet rod is good too if the weld is flat enough.
Reply:60ll came about as the AC or DCRP version of the 6010 (DC welding only).  Whipping technique is required to achieve a faily good looking weld with either rod.  Prior to retirement, I carried both Lincoln 5P++++ (6010) and Lincoln 6011 on my rig.  Both have deep penetration and equal strength characteristics.  The rod I used the most is 7018.  I carried 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 & 3/16 sizes on my truck.For welding thin walled tubing 3/32" E7018 is just the ticket.  Looks good, and is strong.By the way, the best 7018 I've welded with is Hobart brand.  Then ESAB "Atom Arc" brand.  Airco used to make a great 7018MR (moisture resistant flux coating), then was bought out by Lincoln.  When Lincoln changed the formula they screwed up.  They totally suck, including their Excaliber label.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RDonald, I have tried wipping the 6011 and I can do it, but I just run 7018 or mig for almost everything. I use 6013, but very little. Does that make me a low hydrogen snob?  David
Reply:The original poster has AC only, so 7018 is out unless its 7018AC.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:6013 must have SOME penetration.  I can doggone sure burn through 11ga. with itIf I had to go after 1/8 tubing with 6011, the project would get shorter with every pass, I'd be burnin' thru so much  With 6011 all I have to do is turn on the machine, and a hole appears in the metal, I don't even have to touch it!!It's a little known secret...... 6011 was invented by Mother In Laws."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersamm6013 must have SOME penetration.  I can doggone sure burn through 11ga. with itIf I had to go after 1/8 tubing with 6011, the project would get shorter with every pass, I'd be burnin' thru so much  With 6011 all I have to do is turn on the machine, and a hole appears in the metal, I don't even have to touch it!!It's a little known secret...... 6011 was invented by Mother In Laws.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerAccording to your user name you should love 6011 and 6013.  I've always heard them referred to as farmer rods. I really haven't used 6013 for a long, long time because I've used DC machines, mostly SA200s until I retired and a Ranger 250 for 5 years of unretirement, and there are a lot better rods made than 6013 IMHO. Read that as 7018. 6011 made life a lot easier though. I've spent a lot of hours repairing injection leaks in the oil production industry and nothing I ever found worked better to get the water stopped. Then you could cover it up with 7018 so it would stay fixed. Used it a lot for thin material when I couldn't take it to the wire machine too.
Reply:I ran some 6011 today.  A small home made trailer came in for NYS inspection.  I could see through the top half of the 3X3 X 1/4 angle.  It was perforated with rust.  I ground it down the best I could and added a piece of 1/4 x2" to the side.  I used the 6011 because even with grinding I couldn't get all the rust off.  I ran 1/8" about 90 amps flat and 80 or 85 up and overhead.  I whipped it.  It worked quite well.  I have pics, but forgot my camera at work.  I ran a couple of sticks of 3/32 7018 at 90 amps too just to see how it would do with the rust.  It ran fine I only tried it flat.  All DC, crisp for the 6011 smooth for the 7018.Pics tomorrow  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RThe original poster has AC only, so 7018 is out unless its 7018AC.David
Reply:Originally Posted by paweldor60ll came about as the AC or DCRP version of the 6010 (DC welding only).  Whipping technique is required to achieve a faily good looking weld with either rod.  Prior to retirement, I carried both Lincoln 5P++++ (6010) and Lincoln 6011 on my rig.  Both have deep penetration and equal strength characteristics.  The rod I used the most is 7018.  I carried 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 & 3/16 sizes on my truck.For welding thin walled tubing 3/32" E7018 is just the ticket.  Looks good, and is strong.By the way, the best 7018 I've welded with is Hobart brand.  Then ESAB "Atom Arc" brand.  Airco used to make a great 7018MR (moisture resistant flux coating), then was bought out by Lincoln.  When Lincoln changed the formula they screwed up.  They totally suck, including their Excaliber label.
Reply:I've been welding for 30 years off and on and I would throw away 6013's.  I'll admit I only tried them once and I made a good weld, but they suck.