Advice needed about these PICS

admin

[IMG][/IMG]Threads inside the block are aluminum i supposeThis bolt goes into block and holds on an oil cooler which an oil filter screws onto.Obvioulsy it needs to be welded,But Im not sure if it can be welded.Im scared if someone welds it on the car,the electronics on the car may blow out.Can I get some advice about how this should be done?If all the machine shops blow me off,I may take a poke at it.I know how to weld a little,and I can tap and thread pretty good.HELP
Reply:Personally I'd be looking for a used front cover/oil pump housing not that there aren't those out there that would/could weld it up.  I believe it would be quicker and a sure repair.  What's the engine besides being in a FWD car?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Im with Duane, is that part of the front cover or the block?Getting that clean, while in the car and welding it %100 would be a nightmare.I can't really see how bad it is in the picture. Our shop fixes broken parts on aluminum transmissions and engines all the time. I am pretty good at it and I hate doing it. If that was my car I would swap the part.Oil soaked cast aluminum, in a hurry......no thanksYup
Reply:i agree, best thing is too swap it out. if you try to tig it the oil will give you fits.
Reply:its a 2006  3.5 nissan motor autoThe part is not changable at all. I WISH IT WASThe small pieces pictured in the 1st pic actually completes the cirlce for the bolt and hole 98%  and there is a  small 1 inch crack along the side where the threads are missing you can see clearly right bottom corner.The 1 big thread piece completes the top right,right,and right lower corner...And that tiny piece is for the bottom,right below the crack. I drained the oil and I will clean it spotless and dry,its and easy spot with open access ..Besides the belts,theres nothing that will burn in the area.The previous owner tried to epoxy it or some type of metal weld is all over too.Thats gonna cause extra griefI am going shopping around tomorrow morning for someone to fix it.Anyone have any Long Island NY recomendations?Any reccomendations on the process to fix it?I would appreciate any tips or info about the process.ps..I just did the timing cover gaskets and main seal cause someone changed it and didnt seat the main seal right and oil was pouring out.After I was done,I got this extra suprise . YES ITS THE BLOCK Last edited by dannydoo; 09-29-2008 at 10:47 PM.
Reply:This really sucks doo but consider this.  IF you're lucky enough to find a shop willing to take on the job with the motor in the car (or unlucky enough to find one just willing to take your money) there's still the matter of oil contamination causing problems for anyone to produce a quality repair in such a vital part of the engine and now you say the previous owner (or repair shop) tried to fix it with JB Weld or some type of epoxy that obviously didn't hold.  After some die grinding and several cans of Brake-Kleen one could probably get it clean enough to start welding it up however, in it's installed position I'm afraid as soon as the heat is applied oil will migrate from everywhere and present it share of nightmares as Burnit points out for the guy/gal that took on the job.About three years ago I had a guy at work fix my son's Land Rover transmission housing that got beaned by the front drive shaft when the u-joint decided to check out at 70+mph 1900 miles after getting a clean bill of health from the Land Rover dealer.  The repair involved welding up a couple cracks in the housing and building up a section of pan rail that was missing a sizable chunk of aluminum.  The fully assembled trans was out of the vehicle and I spent a considerable amount of time with the above mentioned die grinder and numerous cans of Brake-Kleen before he attempted to start.  Long story short, after some challenging tig welding he was successful and the unit never leaked.  BUT, this repair was done out of the vehicle where it could be worked on and the guy could see what he was doing and it didn't involve pressure passages.  I'd be surprised if you find someone to attempt a repair in the vehicle for the reasons stated above.With that said, judging from the photos I would think the best solution would be to build up new material with filler rod, tap it out and face it off for the filter 'stud' if necessary rather than attempt to weld the broken pieces back into place.Bottom line, I hope should you find a shop willing to attempt a repair in the vehicle and send you on your way after relieving you of several hundred $$ you don't find yourself toolin' down the L.I.E. when the 'repair' fails blowing the filter off and you waste the motor and have to replace it anyhow.Good luck.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by dannydooits a 2006  3.5 nissan motor autoThe part is not changable at all. I WISH IT WASThe small pieces pictured in the 1st pic actually completes the cirlce for the bolt and hole 98%  and there is a  small 1 inch crack along the side where the threads are missing you can see clearly right bottom corner.The 1 big thread piece completes the top right,right,and right lower corner...And that tiny piece is for the bottom,right below the crack. I drained the oil and I will clean it spotless and dry,its and easy spot with open access ..Besides the belts,theres nothing that will burn in the area.The previous owner tried to epoxy it or some type of metal weld is all over too.Thats gonna cause extra griefI am going shopping around tomorrow morning for someone to fix it.Anyone have any Long Island NY recomendations?Any reccomendations on the process to fix it?I would appreciate any tips or info about the process.ps..I just did the timing cover gaskets and main seal cause someone changed it and didnt seat the main seal right and oil was pouring out.After I was done,I got this extra suprise . YES ITS THE BLOCK
Reply:Thanks everyone for the replys.I ran into this http://www.locknstitch.com/RepairExamples.htmCool style of repairing cracked blocks and heads etc,w/out welding.May have to try this sometime.   Are you saying that the metal is actually soaked with oil and will bleed out from its poures once its heated?Your approach is most logical to me.And is what I would do as a novice.Fill it in..drill it out..tap it.What about the elctronics?Once I had an alum motor welded and the guy was anal about the elctronics.I recall something about reverse welding maybe?I dont want to create any more problems.                         IFI can get another 20k mile motor for 800 and have it in 5 hours.Thanks again.
Reply:Originally Posted by dannydooAre you saying that the metal is actually soaked with oil and will bleed out from its poures once its heated?
Reply:I would pull the motor for access.  It can be done maybe, I can't see enough to tell if it can be accessed enough at all. If you do the job, in or out of the car, pass the tig torch over it with NO filler to bring the junk to the surface, then grind it off (die grinder) and do it again.  This will heat up the part and bring the oil out of the aluminum.  It take a LOT of heat for the first pass or two.I do things like that, but it has to be accessible.  You can't weld it if you can't see all of it or get to all of it.  Ya gotta be comfortable to weld it and do a decent job.Drop it off.....   DavidLast edited by David R; 09-30-2008 at 06:24 AM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:May sound like a dumb idea but bear with me here.Is there any way you can make up a plate with a spigot (piece of pipe sticking out from it) so that you can drill and tap the existing gasket surface on the block and bolt this plate to it, from this plate you could make your connections.You could have two ports in it, one leading to the spigot and the other leading to the oval opening in the block. even if it does bypass a bit, as long as it's not leaking exterially you'd be alright. It is just an oil cooler connection so if there is a bit of internal leakage it wouldn't kill anything.......Mike
Reply:Dave You Got  Pm
Reply:Isn't there a warranty on things like this?  The car is 2-3 years old.  That's a defect in manufacturing, wouldn't you say?Most of these manufacturers of unspoken warranties covering all sorts of parts.  Just wondering if Nissan would man up and fix it.Never picked up a welder in my life.  Can you tell?    Building a twin-turbo 1JZ powered scratch-built "Locost", so I'll need to learn.  - Ready for your Awakening?  www.divinecosmos.com
Reply:Sounds like you plan to take it to David but...really need better pics to be sure but i'm thinking rather than messing around sticking the bits back together i'd look at machining up a replacement. Cut the broken tube off and weld the new one on- if there's clearence i'd use a fillet weld weld at the base, if the wall thickness is sufficient (or if increasing the OD at the base would clear the cooler) then the replacement could be 'registered' by leaving a stub of the origonal in place rather than cutting it flush with the base
Reply:I just bought a new motor 12k miles real cheap.prly less than the job would would cost.BUTI still would like to fix this.I wanna just weld a cover over that hole..maybe 1/2 thick 3/4 ?Dave are you near Long island?Last edited by dannydoo; 09-30-2008 at 10:18 PM.
Reply:where are the site police to remove this tapeworm?