Removing Mill Scale

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How do you do it? In my last post I was told to remove the mill scale. Grinder, disk, wire wheel??? What works best?Thanks
Reply:I use a grinder.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I gnaw it off with my teeth.When that doesn't work, I use my angle grinder.Too sharpen my teeth.
Reply:A wire wheel won't do it. It will shine the mill scale to look like chrome, but it will still be mill scale.TSOR: Oh man, that makes my teeth hurt. 9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:grinder will work wonders. i always grind at least two inches back from where i am welding.
Reply:It depends on what type of scale you have, how big the piece is, etc.  Sandblasting works well for large parts; I've never tried my teeth on anything but legs and dashboards.
Reply:Originally Posted by TSORI gnaw it off with my teeth.When that doesn't work, I use my angle grinder.Too sharpen my teeth.
Reply:Thanks for the replies.I understand the grinding for the weld but what if you wanted say a 2' x 4" flat steel smooth for painting after welding. I wil use the grinder for the weld. The steel was bought from a local place as scrap it's 1/8', the 1" x 1" angle has the same stuff on it. I bought it for practice. Is this just a cheaper steel. What causes it?Thanks again
Reply:Originally Posted by flydrifterThanks for the replies.I understand the grinding for the weld but what if you wanted say a 2' x 4" flat steel smooth for painting after welding. I wil use the grinder for the weld. The steel was bought from a local place as scrap it's 1/8', the 1" x 1" angle has the same stuff on it. I bought it for practice. Is this just a cheaper steel. What causes it?Thanks again
Reply:Grind it off a little farther than the weld will cover. After the welding is complete, have it sandblasted before painting. Sandblasting also cleans the welds where they will hold paint. Cold rolled mild steel is closer to dimension than hot rolled and is also harder due to work hardening from the rolling process, the only way that mild steel is hardened.
Reply:Or (not reccomended), get out the ol' 6011, run it on AC, and just weld it up  The method preferred by farmers around the worldActually, if you are in a bind, and can't get to something with a grinder, 6011 on AC will give an acceptable weld for repair work.  It penetrates thru the rust and scale to base metal, and the "on-off" pulsing cycle of AC helps to bring the crud to the top of the puddle in the slag.OK, y'all kin now throw yer rocks"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:TSOR, i have heard that all steel is hot rolled which produces mill scale. then some of it while still 1000 degrees or more goes to a " cold" rolling process which removes the scale. i dont know but i been told...
Reply:I use a needle scaler.  Works fine the area to be welded.
Reply:needle gun - die grinder/burr tool for corners and use a light sanding disk for open surfaces.  Dewalt makes a backing pad for their grinders so you can throw on a sanding disk or buffing pads. If you use a die grinder for corners you should get a pencil tip with very very very fine teeth. Try not to go right into a corner with a brand new tip because they grab fast and kick back hard when they're fresh.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadTSOR, i have heard that all steel is hot rolled which produces mill scale. then some of it while still 1000 degrees or more goes to a " cold" rolling process which removes the scale. i dont know but i been told...
Reply:You can also remove it with Hydochloric acid but then you need to nuetralize it with something like lime.
Reply:flap disks work for me.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT