Need advice on a railing

admin

I need to make/weld 3 sections of steel railings for my front porch.  I will be mig welding it probably with solid wire/gas.The length of each section is 13 to 14 feet. Was going to use 1x2 (2" horizontal 1" vertical) tube for the top and bottom with 3/4 tube spaced at 4 inches for the vertical pickets.Each end on both the top and bottom would have an angle bracket welded to it and then the angle would be lag screwed to 8x8 wood posts.  I suppose I could add some intermediate supports at the bottom if really needed.  Here are my questions:Was wondering what the tubing thickness should be for the 1x2 and the 3/4 pickets.  I'd like it fairly stiff and not real flexy.  So if you leaned up against it  itwould feel pretty strong.  Was thinking about 1/8 or 3/16 for the 1x2 and 1/16 for the verticalsAny tricks to weld up a section to keep it from getting twisted or bowed as you weld it up.  I don't have the ability to make some type of a big 14 foot jig to hold it like in a real shop.Last edited by WelderDaddy; 03-12-2009 at 09:16 AM.Reason: additional info
Reply:Typically, I use .065 for the pickets and either .065 or .090 for the top and bottom tubes.   For posts, I usually use .090 or .120.For a 13-14 foot run without support in the middle, turn your 1x2 tube the other way, so the 2" side is facing out and the 1" side is facing up.  The rectangle is stronger when oriented vertically.   With your rect tube vertical, you can use .065 wall tube and it will be plenty strong.   Really, you don't need 1x2 tube for both top and bottom rails.  The bottom in 1x2 and the top in 1x1 would be enough.  If you put a post in the middle of the run anchored to the floor, you can use 1x1x.065 tube instead of 1x2 for both your top and bottom rails.   You can use the same 1x1x.065 for the post since the walls are providing most of the support to the rail.Check your local codes for minimum top rail height from the floor, minimum bottom rail hieght from the floor, and minimum spacing between pickets.   If there is a stair rail involved, check the heights for that too, as well as for any requirements for how you end the top rail (return).MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:On the bowing issue, weld the end two pickets in first being sure to get everything square.  Once you have those in square,  weld the other pickets in a little at a time, skipping around instead of welding them all in one after the other, alternating ends and sides.  If it bows a bit, lay the  completed panel down and elevate one end on a block with the bowed side up, then step on on the rails a little bit at a time untill you have it bent straight again.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Well, the newel post on the stair railing at my house is 1", but it is solid.  I've used a bunch of 1/2" solid for pickets.You may find that solid (at least for 1/2" and 3/4") is cheaper than tube.