Marking on steel

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I have been using a black sharpie to mark lines on steel. This doesn't really work so well. After a while the line doesnt even show up probably due to the gunk on the steel. What does everyone use to mark lines on steel? I was thinking something like chalk maybe? Thanks!
Reply:Its called Soap Stone.  You can get it at any welding supply shop.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:yep soapstone (round or flat ) i like the flat  carry apiece of it in pocket all the time  and if you go bowling, it works great on your shoes to help em slide
Reply:If you're really splittin' hairs the silver graphite pencils available at LWS work really good. For general purpose the soapstone is what I always use.                                    MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Dykem...http://ami.thomasnet.com/product/dyk...aining-fluid-2...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I use sharpie marker on aluminum and galvanized steel and sometimes regular steel.   I usually use a scribe or soap stone or paint marker on regular steel, though I have used a pencil once in a while too.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Soap Stone, thanks everyone!
Reply:I use the silver lead, regular pencils, white paint pens, yellow paint pens, black paint pens, scratch awls, file handles, soap stone, black markers, red markers and my pocket knife.
Reply:Hello HakBot, you got the full boat of replies for suggestions for marking utensils. If you end up using the thin-line soapstones there is a little trick to keep them from breaking so easily. Spread a number of them out on a newspaper and spraypaint the exposed side and after letting it dry, flip them over and spray paint the other side. This isn't a new trick and I certainly didn't come up with it, but it will help to keep from breaking them so easily when you put them to use. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:A scribe is the best. With soap stones and markers, your line is much wider than a scribe line. When my tolerances are less than .060", you need to be much more exact.Go hot, or go home!
Reply:Originally Posted by aevaldHello HakBot, you got the full boat of replies for suggestions for marking utensils. If you end up using the thin-line soapstones there is a little trick to keep them from breaking so easily. Spread a number of them out on a newspaper and spraypaint the exposed side and after letting it dry, flip them over and spray paint the other side. This isn't a new trick and I certainly didn't come up with it, but it will help to keep from breaking them so easily when you put them to use. Best regards, Allan
Reply:In the U.K. soap stone is known as "french chalk", I believe it is a high grade of calcium carbonate,Also used by tailors and dress makers for marking cloth.Soap stone in it's powdered form is the main constituent of talcum powder.Lincoln SP-170 MigHypertherm powermax 45Lorch T220 AC/DC TigButters FM 215 synergic MigKemppi 180 adaptive mig RULES ARE FOR THE OBEDIENCE OF FOOLS AND THE  GUIDANCE OF WISE MEN.
Reply:I'll second with Sandy and DesertRider. I usually use the trusty ole soapstone but in a pinch anything that marks the surface will do.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:I'll clean my steel and scribe it then run the soap stone over the scribe mark this makes it much easier to see as you get older and harder to wipe of by mistake.Life is tuff,so be sharp  lincoln sp 100  cutmaster101  miller bobcat  miller 250 mig  $thousands in snapon
Reply:If you sharpen your soapstone properly you can get to plus or minus 1/64th easily. ( .015 in)  Taper the width from the 1/2  to about 3/16th and then taper the flat side to a sharp edge.   When you draw do not press too hard.  It wears the tip faster and dulls and widens the line.  Soapstone comes in varying qualities.  I have had boxes of the stuff where half of it fractures immediately.  It is useless on wet steel.  Silver streak is expensive but most effective when things are wet.Also sharpening with a file is the best way rather than against a grinding wheel.  The grinder works just fine but if you are picky try a file.
Reply:Sharpie does make a metal writing pen.  It's silver and its for writing on metal and plastic.I buy mine by the 4 pak form Wal Mart. It has a fairly fine point.  It seems to stand out when you are cutting with a torch and doesn't seem to burn off.  I also use valve action markers with finer points.  The work good too.  Soapstone is good, but can be easily smudged while handling.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:On clean steel i use a sharpie but more dirtier steel ill use soapstoneYa gotta spend money to make money!
Reply:All great input here. Soapstone sharpened on a file is good; but when flame cutting it can pop off with the mill scale. A tungsten scriber is more accurate, and permanent. On stainless and aluminum I prefer a staedler permanent ink fine point marker.
Reply:I find that soapstone wipes off too easily and it doesn't make a precise line.  I like to draw an approximate mark with a paint pen.  This will give you about a 3/16 wide mark.  Give it a few seconds to dry then scribe a precise line through the paint (typically scribed down the side of a square).  This gives you a long lasting, highly visible, very precise mark.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:I thought that the professional method for marking steel to be cut (torch or plasma) was with a sharp soap stone line and then to mark the line with a center punch at regular intervals so that you can see where it was when you burn it.I still do this and it does work.This was more for structural stuff rather than thin sheets.G
Reply:It's true that center punching is a good way to go, especially with heavy mill scale.
Reply:Originally Posted by gordfraserI thought that the professional method for marking steel to be cut (torch or plasma) was with a sharp soap stone line and then to mark the line with a center punch at regular intervals so that you can see where it was when you burn it.I still do this and it does work.This was more for structural stuff rather than thin sheets.
Reply:Originally Posted by aevaldHello HakBot, you got the full boat of replies for suggestions for marking utensils. If you end up using the thin-line soapstones there is a little trick to keep them from breaking so easily. Spread a number of them out on a newspaper and spraypaint the exposed side and after letting it dry, flip them over and spray paint the other side. This isn't a new trick and I certainly didn't come up with it, but it will help to keep from breaking them so easily when you put them to use. Best regards, Allan
Reply:I didn't see paint crayons on the list.  Yeah, they break as easily as soapstone, but there are times that having a color other than white comes in handy.I like sharpies, but not on steel.  Great on copper pipe though.  I also get the silver metallic sharpies,  because that color stands out better on pipe.
Reply:Originally Posted by lugweldGord,I don't think what method a person uses designates one a professional or not. I have soapstone,paint valve action markers, sharpies, center punches, and a tungsten scribe.  (I use the scribe for marking hole locations when I am copying a part and need a mirror image and the punch for setting a guide for hole drilling) The mark of a true professional is knowing which side of the line or where on the line to make the cut or weld, regardless of the method employed to make the line.