I Beam

admin

I'm going to be making an I Beam for my basement to place next to a large wodden beam that is starting to crack.  To purchase an I Beam is to much money.  So I am going to be making my own.  It will be 6" x 6".  My question is should I use flat bar or plate when making the beam.  Which would give more strength?  I was leaning towards 1/2" x 6" flat bar.  Is this over kill?Neil
Reply:Dont know if its overkill or not. Whats above it? I would think that flat bar would be easier to use but I dont know if its stronger or not. Sorry not much help
Reply:The beam that's there is a carrier for my kitchen and an upstairs outside bearing wall.  The house is a 110 year old New England Farm House style with a granite block foundation.I'm thinking that welding 2 sections of structural c channel together may give me some added strength instead of using flat or plate.  The beam will be anchored into an additional wooden beam that runs the full length of the back of the house and another that runs the full length of the middle of the house.  This beam is only 12 feet long.Neil
Reply:Could you just (maybe jack slightly and) sandwich the main wooden beam with two pieces of steel, cross drill and bolt.  This would substantially re-inforce the beam without adding whole new support.  You could use plate or to pieces of simple angle.  I helped a guy do exactly this under his kitchen in a 100 year old house in Atlanta several years back.  The steel actually rested on the main outer foundation and an inner pillar...and, didnt drop overhead space as much as an inch.  Just a thought.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Another option is go to a salvage yard.   You might be able to pick up an I beam that has been salavages from demolition.  Then you just have to cut to length, either have it sand blasted or you power brush it clean and then paint.  Smithboy's suggestion is an excellent repair.  I've seen it done before with additional wood 2"x8"'s laminated on both sides of the beam.  Just don't be afraid to use to many bolts.Here in the Great White NorthMosquitoes can't fly at 40 below
Reply:I think I'm going to go  with smithboy's suggestion.  I think if I run a piece of plate the full length on the underside of the beam and then add smaller sections of plates between the floor joists and bolt them together it should suck the entire beam back together.Thanks,Neil
Reply:Actually, what we did was jack up with a long support, put a plate (or chanel) on either side, drill, and bolt through.  Just wanted to be clear.]|[   <- like this...the vertical line is the joist.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Smithboy hit on the head I have seen it and done it myself works like a champ..might consider this opportunity to get a drill press if you don't already have one... post some pics!Future ProjectsEnglish WheelPlanishing HammerRing Bender[URL="http://www.strombolis.com"http://www.strombolis.com[/URL]
Reply:I think flat plate will have similar mechanical properties to an I-beam because they are both made using a continuous casting process.  Flat bar might have slightly improved mechanical properties as it is somewhat cold worked to create a more uniform grain.
Reply:I'll try to get a picture later today.  The beam is in a half of the cellar that is basically a crawl space with no lighting.Neil
Reply:Your plate will need to be on the sides of the wooden beam. It MUST be in a vertical position in order for it to add any significant strength to the existing wooden structure. If it were on the bottom and the wooden beam fails, the steel reinforcement will simply bend and fail as well.
Reply:If I may add another idea....   A magnetic drill press will make the drilling ALOT easier once you get the plate jacked into place.I would think you could rent a mag-press locally ??edit:   I just measured my Milwaukee press and this idea wont work if this beam is in a series of 16" o/c.Last edited by Cracker; 02-27-2006 at 04:47 PM."I need this parade like I need a hole in the head"~John F.Kennedy
Reply:smithboys  idea is  used in the  constuction  area...ihave worked on old building that are  beign saved  for their heritage...we  used  8 inch  channel on each side of the  woooden  beam (old wood  was  about  12 x 12) drill with a  13/16 hole  ever  16 inches drilled through with a 3/4 wood  bit and  then a  3/4 threaded rod  pokes  through and  tightened up....it  did  take  some  doing to  get  good at  getting  the  holes lined  up...basically drill from both  sides and  if  needed..bend  the  rod  a  tad.....a  chaser  nut is  a  good  thing to have on this  project also
Reply:Here's a picture of how the beam is splitting.  Because it is in a crawl space taking a longer shot of it wouldn't work.  This is looking at the beam face on.  The crack goes from one end to the other and straight through the beam.Neil Attached Images
Reply:A lot of it depends on whether you think this beam is in good shape and just needs a little help to keep from opening up or it's dieing and needs serious assistance. From the pic the wood doesn't look that bad. What would probably help as much as anything is a screw jack in the center to help bear the weight and help keep it closed. If it's real bad I'd sandwich it from the sides like the guys her say. Wouldn't have to be very thick for that short of a span if the beam is already doing most of the supporting. Heck I'd use something like 3/16ths on both sides, full height of the beam.
Reply:Hi Sandy,They suggested top and bottom for the plate.  I can put a full length piece on the bottom but because of the floor joists above it I can only put sections of plate on top.Neil
Reply:Well top and bottom might help hold the beam together better but would provide little in the way added of vertical strength/support. In a typical I beam the web provides the strength and the flanges hold the web in plane so it can provide that strength. A 12 foot piece of flat strap, laid flat, between two tables won't hold itself up without sagging. Turn it on edge and it will hold quite a bit of weight, provided you can keep it straight (in plane).
Reply:Fallon,I don't think they suggested top and bottom at all. Smithboy was very clear in his post:Actually, what we did was jack up with a long support, put a plate (or chanel) on either side, drill, and bolt through. Just wanted to be clear.]|[ <- like this...the vertical line is the joist.
Reply:Thanks Scott,It's been a crazy couple of weeks here.  I'm just not reading things right at this point.  Last week the washer went.  This week I found the problem with the beam then the outlet for the electric dryer went up in smoke including the wiring in that crawl space.  Now I can just order the plate and be done with this one.Thanks,Neil
Reply:Good luck with it.Mine was a pretty cheap fix. I used some second hand steel and my helper cost me a 6 pack - he owed me a few favours.Just jack it up temporarily till you source some second hand steel.If the span isn't too far, you might get away with an angle - one leg beside the beam and the other underneath it with horizontal bolts through the timber.If the ground under the beam is solid, you could always put a concrete pad down and build a brick pier. I've done that, too.Scott
Reply:you can fishplate it between 2 channelsbu2 bolts on each end and  in between bolt it like every other foot or divide the distance and space accordingly the bolts in between should be staggered
Reply:I reinforced a similar beam when I added a second story to a house.  Bolting the flat bar to the sides of the beam worked very well.  To save some time and elbow grease, I had the holes punched in the steel.