I'd like to goose neck a trailer

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I would like to modify a small 5x10 trailer to be goose necked.  It will go onto a Ford Ranger with a flat bed.  My idea is to have the neck as close(low) to the bed as possible so a tool box can sit on top of the neck and be accesssible without climbing.  I don't carry a lot of weight on the trailer (1/2 ton max is rare, usually under 600lbs).  Any suggestions on how to do this.  I also, need to know what type hitch attaches/mount on the truck.  Ideas on jigging and hitch accessories would be most helpful. This is one of those rainy day projects. I have been thinking about this for a year and spring would be a good time to do this. Thanks
Reply:The shortest gooseneck I have seen it about 16 feet long.  Probably this is because a shorter trailer would have more steel/weight in the hitch than in the trailer.The hitch can't be too close to the bed...or it will scrub when you drive on uneven surfaces.There are several different types of hitches for these types of trailers...Gooseneck is a brand name, so that generally implies a particular hitch, I think.  My dad has the kind that looks like a steel donut. You drop the trailer hitch over the receiver and put a big pin through it.  These receivers are generally mounted on a big steel plate and bolted across the two I-beams of the truck bed.If you go look at some of the trailer sites, you will notice that gooseneck-type trailers are substantial.  They have lots of steel in the construction of the frame, becasue they are designed to carry very heavy loads.  I am not sure a trailer designed to carry only a couple of thousand pounds would be able to support a neck as heavy as you might need to build it.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:You won't need a heavy structural neck but you will need a properly triangulated neck to keep the height and weight down.  I would probably go with some 12 ga 2X3, though you didn't say what requirments you have for attaching it to the frame.Attachment 3147Millermatic 251Century 180 migSpectrum 625 Syncrowave 250DX
Reply:I'm a big fan of gooseneck trailers for safety, carrying heavy loads etc.  But if you are going to a 1/2 ton max trailer, why waste your time and money, put overloads on your truck.  With a gooseneck you loose most of the use of the bed anyway.  With a flatbead you won't have to worry about hitting your box on uneven ground.  Rule of thumb on the ones that I have put on is 3 inches in front of the rear axle.Is your trailer a single axle?  Since this is going to be your trailer to the specific truck you can move the ball further back but if you go too far back and have to much weight on the truck you will end up with a squirly handling rig.My .02 worth.  By the way I have seen 10 ft single axle horsetrailer goosenecks.   The length is measured on the floor not the hitch.jf
Reply:Any suggestions on how to do this. I also, need to know what type hitch attaches/mount on the truck. Ideas on jigging and hitch accessories would be most helpful.
Reply:Thanks for the replies.  I expect to make the neck come just high enough to clear the bed, about 1 foot of clearance.  Do you all see any problems with this idea?RedrmmkThanks for the tip about uneven ground.I try to keep my truck as light as possible only bare essentials for welding (I have an underhood welder), so bed space in not a real issue.  Before flatbeding it I used to have the truck weighted down with lots of unnessary stuff.  I wore my springs out.  No real need to do this now, since springs are renewed, just thought it would be neat to do.I'll have to check out TSC.Thanks again
Reply:1 foot sounds ok. With as small as the bed you have clearance really should be an issue.  I have thought about building a detachable gooseneck for my 18' utility trailer, maybe something like that might suit you.Millermatic 251Century 180 migSpectrum 625 Syncrowave 250DX