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More of a excuse to pratice welding some 304 SS,Now I'm ready to start my headers....!!My welds not too bad I guess.... they looked decent. I'm a novice TIG welder but getting better every min. Just bought my 180SD 1 month ago! Loving it!I learned alot about how heat warps things picked up some valuable knowledge along the way.everytime I pick up the torch I get better.It's very rewarding!Plus my girlfriend loves the new furniture!!here some pics,coffee table with glass top. Everything done with 1" square 16ga. tubing.http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=360&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=360&nh=480TV STANDhttp://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=360&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=360&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=360&nh=480FINSIHED SET IN USE IN MY LIVING ROOM....NICE!!!!!http://www.lostbrazilian.com/v1/get_...&nw=640&nh=480BRING ON THE HEADERS!!
Reply:Nice work m3pedroHave you considered a pneumatic wheel with scotch brite to clean the S/S rather than seeing the grind marks from what appears to from a flap disc?
Reply:Looking really good. I bet you are ready for those headers.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Looks good ! Hey, that door on the right is for extremely skinny people? John - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:looks good to me.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:BRING ON THE HEADERS!!send them out to Jet-Hot coatings when done ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Very nice work, m3pedro. I'd love to hear a little more about your experience building the table, as I am on the verge of building a base for a nice 3' x 4' x 3/4" beveled-edge glass top that I picked up at a salvage place. It will be my first major project with TIG on SS, too. Past experience is only a few days "Intensive TIG Welding" course at The Crucible here in Oakland, so I'm a little intimidated by the project.In particular, what good or bad experience is behind the comment, "I learned alot about how heat warps things," with respect to this project? I have only a textbook knowledge about setting things up to anticipate shrinkage, but could use a few hints with respect to setting up the corners so you end up with something that doesn't look cockeyed after cooling. Most of my decades of amateur welding have been with stick welding mild steel for utilitarian items where looks were not critical.Based upon what was available from the local scrap yard, I'm hoping to use 1" x 1" x 1/8" legs running the full height from the ground up to the bottom of the glass with 1" x 2 " x 0.040 rectangular tube butting up to the sides of the legs so the horizontals run BETWEEN the legs around the top. I'm figuring that this would result in the strongest and stiffest corners for the material at hand. Does this sound like a strong/stiff enough structure for a 28" tall patio dinner table? I don't want to run a second stiffening horizontal member below the 1" x 2" x 0.040" tubes unless I must to get sufficient strength and stiffness because I don't want to intrude on leg clearance under the table. Do you guys have any opinion of the strength of my proposed structure? Should I bite the bullet and buy thicker wall tube for the rectangular top?The scrap yard has lots of 1.25" x 1.25" x 1/16" SS tube, but I thought that would look a little clunky for this size top, and I thought I might have to double up the horizontals to get sufficient strength.m3pedro, how did you form the triple tube corners? Hard to see in the photos. Almost looks like you made up the rectangular top with mitered corners, then butted the legs up against the bottom of the rectangular top. I don't think I could get the necessary strength with my materials in that configuration without a second horizontal tube like you have.I know that it is going to be difficult to weld 0.040 tube to 1/8" tube without blowing holes in the thin wall. I expect to do a lot of practicing on those joints before tackling the project, but am I kidding myself that a beginner might be able to make such asymmetrical welds?Appreciate any comments and suggestions.awright
Reply:Really good looking welds. Nice job!
Reply:well lets see......first SS is very expensive. Your table material is going to cost you.my projects were small and I definatly wanted the look of SS. If not you can always finish mid steel the same way and clear coat it with spray paint.anyways.best advice ever.get a VERY good corner clamp/jig.make sure all your corners ar square!I started by using a $5 corner clamp from home depot. Crap my corners ended up being not square!I went out and bought a nice big $39 corner clamp from the welding store. BIG HELP!!!yes i did make a rectangle main frame them added the legs. Why? if you do it any other way you end up with and open end on a tube that you have to plug. The only open tube end I have is on the bottom of the legs. I plugged it with a plastic insert. some tips,1-duh! mesure, recheck, mesure and then cut especially because you already have a table top that is a specific size.2- I welded the main rectangle frame with a good corner clamp. It helps to have a nice flat serface to check your work as you do it.3- tack weld the rest of the entire structure before laying any beads. This will help things stay in place and avoid warping.4- weld on alternating corners/sides spread the heat around as you weld so you don't over heat a leg of a joint by making all the welds on the joint at the same time. If you do....... things WILL warp when they cool down.5-If you are not going to use a second horizontal then Id's go with thicker wall size on the legs. Also it becomes even more important for that legs to be square. I would think about a corner jig. $169 at my local welding store.I'm a beginner by the way this is my first project and even tough it looks great it's not totally square and straight.oh yeah, after your done "finishing" the surface apply a protective coating made for SS. So you don't leave oil makrs from your hands/food etc... I bought this stuff at the LWS called Sheila Shine. Supposedly made for SS.primarily I wanted to get some expirience welding SS so I welded EVERY joint!my best advice would be to only weld with full length bead what is neccesary. The less welding the less heat in each area = less possible warpingALSO VERY IMPORTANT!!!when working on stainless, any wire brush you use, grinder disks, flap disk (for finishing) ONLY use on SS. expecially the flap wheel useded to finish the surface. Why? if you use it previously on mild steel, when you use it on SS you will leave tiny mild steel deposits on the surface.....then months after those particles will oxidize under your clear coat or protective coating and RUIN you nice shiny finish..!!!hope some of this helps!
Reply:Thanks a lot for your comments, m3pedro. They all definitely help. Especially with regard to the corner jigs. I'll check them out at my welding supply. Should one set up the welds perfectly (hah) square, then tack them, or set them up with a little angle that is expected to compensate for shrinkage? I gather from your comments that you used the former approach.I would go for full welds for the same reasons you did and to maximize strength. Aslo, capping the tubes was always part of my original plan.Any other opinions/advice out there, especially regarding strength? My intuition agrees with m3pedro that the 0.040 wall tube is a bit light, but for obvious reasons ($), I'd like to use it if it is at all feasible.Thanks.awright
Reply:Kind of off the subject but I also took a class at the Crucible in Oakland. What a great place. Would you mind telling me about your salvage yard source for stainless? Thanks
Reply:Alco Metals 1091 Doolittle Dr, San Leandro, 94577 - (510) 562-1107. Right on Doolittle and Davis, over the tracks from Home Depot. The stainless is in the open shed behind the main building with the sales desk and offices. Used to be great years ago. Has gotten snotty lately, putting the salvage piles off limits, raising minimum purchase from $15 to $30, higher price quotes from arrogent counter help. However, the stock is reasonably well sorted. I forget just now what they charged for stainless, but it seemed pretty high. Don't **** off the counter people or you're screwed. And don't tell them any of these comments.Yeah, the Crucible is great. And fun. But after taking the intensive TIG short course I had to decide whether the next outlay should go toward more of their good but expensive training or a DC TIG machine. So I decided to spin my wheels instead of either until I got a 400 amp DC inverter TIG/stick machine on ebay that I want to inaugurate on my table base.awrightLast edited by awright; 07-28-2006 at 07:51 PM. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:38:08