is flux core messy?

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i am planning on buying a hobart 125 ez mig welder.  it is flux core so that it doesnt require gas.  i have heard some people say that flux core is messy so i thought id get your opinions on flux core and on the welder itself.   do they make a conversion kit that would convert it to gas if i wanted to. also i dont see a wire feed speed setting on it. why is this and how do you control the speed of the feed?  thanksLast edited by a_watts90; 06-28-2006 at 02:16 PM.
Reply:It is very messy and will leave residue and spatter every place within a 6 inch radius (depending on size used). On the other hand, it's simple and welds over grease, paint and other dirty areas on contaminated metal.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I try not to use it much, it is messy I find it throws more sparks and spatter than gas. I have to spend more time cleaning the finished job and It burns me a lot more.However it is good for outside, on site work and as Microzone said it welds over grease, paint and other dirty areas on contaminated metal, I still grind and clean the metal as best I can.One more thing It is fairly expensive I have not compared it to the cost of solid wire and gas. But it might be something to look atSimonhttp://members.optusnet.com.au/~abba/index.html
Reply:The best deal on wire out there is Lincoln Innershield E71T-11 at Home Depot for $40 for a 10# spool of .035".  I've not seen any deals elsewhere that even come close.  Closes the gap a little to being as economical as solid wire with gas.I use GMAW and FCAW often depending on the job.  GMAW is the way to go when you can just for post-weld cleaning time, but you're pretty much limited to shop environments or REALLY windless days, plus you're lugging around the shielding gas (unless you have a Miller Passport).FCAW is great for penetration and unclean steel.  It definitely has its place in my arsenal, especially with the amount of field work I do.You can help control spatter with anti-spatter spray (or PAM), but you'll still have to wire-brush all the welded areas afterwards, and even hit them a little with the chipping hammer, but it's not as bad as SMAW.
Reply:I have found that a painters 5 in 1 works the best for splatter.  I am able to get into more areas with it.
Reply:I think flux-core does a fine job.  Burns hotter than solid wire at the same setting.  Don't have to worry about wind or contaminates.  You can always add gas later.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:I have a Hobart 135 with flux core, and I don't seem to get as much splatter as most people describe.  Just small amount and it will usually come off rubbing it with my glove, but the rest just takes a little brushing.
Reply:Yeah Flux core is a bit messier than plain wire and gas, that much is a given.     The bigger question is what do you expect to do with the welder.   Flux core simply will be less than optimal for some tasks relative to a MIG.     For things like sheet metal you probably should skip flux core all together.So the question iw what are you up to?By the way if this is you first welder and likely to be the only won you will have for some time I generally advise against the 110 VAC units due to the lack of flexibility.    That is up to you of course but before diving into a 110 volt welder you need to look into the technology a bit and decide if it is right for your applications.dave
Reply:I bought a lincoln 100 for $100.  It was cheap enough and I was very shocked at how good it welded.  I've welded with other 110 units before and would barely burn the wire, much less get any penetration.  I think brand might have something to do with it.  I really haven't had much problem with spatter either.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:DUdE FLUX CORE KICKS BUTt CAUSE YOU AIN'T GOTTA TOTE THAT BOTTLE AROUND... BUT MAKE SURE YOU KNOCK OFF ALL THAT SPATTER IF YOU ARE WORRIED ABOUT CORROSSION.... Just my two bits... most days I am layin an easy bead down flat....Cheers,Jeff
Reply:flux core is really great when you have to close gaps . burns hot , and creates alot of smoke so you'd want to be well ventilated.i use hobart e 70 t 7018 3/32 wire turn it up to about 21 or 22 volts and away you go .  sometimes you get chicken tracks. but i haven't had to much of it . i move a little slow and burn hot and it seems to help
Reply:IMO, flux core is no messier than stick and is easier to clean up than 6011's. A quick swipe with a grinder and cup brush and you are done. I've been running Hobart Fabshield 21-B for the last 5 days. Easy to clean up and easy to weld with. I am just about out of that spool and will be switching to either 1/16 21-B or .045 Linc NR 211-MP. I haven't been using much of it until lately. Got lots to do with it now.
Reply:dude, just go with a mig welder, you'll thank me later on, even if your just starting out.
Reply:With the Hobart 125 EZ there is no option to add gas later.  Unless the decision is made that flux core is all he'll want to use, he should buy the regular Handler 125, which can be bought as a flux core welder, and add the gas kit later for mig, or can be bought initially with the gas kit, so it could be flux core or mig either one.To answer one question about the wire speed, on the 125 EZ the only setting is for the thickness of the material you are going to weld.  The welder then sets the voltage and wire speed according to the material thickness you select.EdWhen the  drops the  stops!Check out my website at:  Tombstone 180 ACHandler 120Millermatic 210Powermax 380Harris & Victor torchesSawzallChop Saw
Reply:Originally Posted by pottymouth_1dude, just go with a mig welder, you'll thank me later on, even if your just starting out.
Reply:a flux core machine will do some good work in the right situation..just don't count on the paint staying "nice nice" down the road.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702The best deal on wire out there is Lincoln Innershield E71T-11 at Home Depot for $40 for a 10# spool of .035".  I've not seen any deals elsewhere that even come close.  Closes the gap a little to being as economical as solid wire with gas.I use GMAW and FCAW often depending on the job.  GMAW is the way to go when you can just for post-weld cleaning time, but you're pretty much limited to shop environments or REALLY windless days, plus you're lugging around the shielding gas (unless you have a Miller Passport).FCAW is great for penetration and unclean steel.  It definitely has its place in my arsenal, especially with the amount of field work I do.You can help control spatter with anti-spatter spray (or PAM), but you'll still have to wire-brush all the welded areas afterwards, and even hit them a little with the chipping hammer, but it's not as bad as SMAW.
Reply:was flux core even invented 15 yrs ago??  ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:FCAW's been around as long as I've been welding, and that's quite a while.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterwas flux core even invented 15 yrs ago??  ...zap!
Reply:ok then.. learn something new every day......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I recently upgraded from a Lincoln SP-135 to a PM215. I was trying to sell the 135, but I have decided to keep it setup as a FCAW machine. As an example, a friend from work came over today asking me to repair an exhaust bracket on his show quality 76 Monte SS. Piece was small and couldn't really grind it clean, so I just used the NR211MP on the SP135 with no cleanup whatsoever. Beads came out pretty decent. I left it to him to cleanup the slag and paint because the wife had a hot burger and cold beer ready for me.I love that woman,Mike
Reply:That is perzactly what I did with my MM135 about a year ago. Very nice to have it set up, ready to go. I actually have another feeder set up with fc....035 in the MM135 and .045 in the S-32P for big stuff. I'll probably set it up with 1/16 one day.
Reply:do you have to chip slag with fluxcore?
Reply:Sure do. It is easier to clean than stick slag, IMO. The slag on dual shield wire just flakes off.Originally Posted by cheeseclipdo you have to chip slag with fluxcore?
Reply:Originally Posted by jake 232The Core shield 11 is a better product than NR 211 because the Core 11 is a multi-pass electrode and the NR 211 isn't. .
Reply:Linc should not classify it that way look at it this way.. What is the maximum plate thickness which can be welded with Innershield NR-211-MP (E71T-11) wire? NR-211-MP is restricted to welding these maximum plate thicknesses: Wire diameter Maximum plate thickness .035"(0.9mm) 5/16"(8mm) .045"(1.1mm) 5/16"(8mm) .068"(1.7mm) 1/2"(13mm) 5/64"(2.0mm) 1/2"(13mm) 3/32"(2.4mm) 1/2"(13mm) For thicker steels, look to NR-212. It has similar welding characteristics to NR-211-MP but is designed for use on materials up to 3/4" (19.0mm) thick.  A 3/32 wire that is limited to 1/2", c'mon that ought to tell you it's garbage right there and it is terrible terrible stuff and I hate it. I do however Love to run the NR232 upsidedown and backerds  http://http://products.esabna.com/in...5bb47.12950895  Now look at the  Core 11, clasified the same as the NR 211 but without the restrictions. Lincoln shouldn't call it a multi pass electrode. If you're running 3/32" wire on 1/2" plate you're not going to be making multiple passes. If you are then you've chosen the wrong product. If you're running .045 NR211 on 5/16 plate and you can't make a 1/4" weld with one pass then you've chosen the wrong product. Linc just classifies it as an MP wire to sell wire but that's JMHO.  Let's compare Linc's NR232 to ESAB's Coreshield 8. Squirt a couple inches of 232 out the tip and break it over then do the same with the Core 8 you're going to find that there is more metallic mass per inch of wire in the 232 because its going to be harder to break over and it (the 232) won't break at the rollers if you have a loop in your lead or a short on the tip like the Core 8 will, even in 5/64" wire. I build and weld siesmic frames in custom homes for a living, the money is AWSOME! And I've been up and down this road with all the CWIs in my area, so that's "where I got that one".Last edited by jake 232; 08-01-2006 at 09:41 PM.
Reply:That is one way to look at it and to be fair, a fairly good one. However, Linc does not classify their wires, that is the job of the AWS. Linc conforms. The 211 does meet the criteria of the E71T-11 which includes multi pass ability. Personal experience and opinion may be more accurate, but the AWS is where the spec'd abilities have to come from. They state MP, so that is what we have go by. Like or agree with it or not.....doen't mean you have to use it. Since you do seismic work, you can't use it anyway, right? I just use the stuff for general purpose stuff. I am doing some two pass 3/8 with it now. So far, the results have been very good. Using the .035 over the .045 seemed to be a better choice this time. Not a seismic area nor is it a spec'd job. Everything is holding up extremely well and I don't forsee any troubles. As soon as the splicing is done, I'll be switching to .045 Fabshield 21B. That is the one I prefer anyway. Still a T-11 wire, just better than the 211. I can't get any Esab here, so I can't comment on it at all. I could get it if I wanted a pallet, but I don't. I would like to try some one day. One day, maybe I will get to. I also like the NR-212. The only trouble with it is the G-G spec on it. That just means it didn't conform to any spec other than what Linc wanted. The general classification is kinda scary when you think about it. They can do anything they want and don't have to answer or justify it. It still welds fairly nice. Nice ripple and profile that everyone likes. The GS wires everyone makes are junk, IMO. They have so many BB's, it is a wonder any metal actually hits the bead. Pure junk, IMO. I have a little left in my MM135 for quickie repairs. The last time I used it was to weld three teeth onto my tooth bar on the tractor. To its credit, they are holding extremely well. Those welds are subjected to more extreme conditions than most. Since I welded them on, I have ripped off a pinned tooth....so they are taking a very good beating. I guess even junky wire can produce a good weld. My LWS has some .068 NR-232 he wants me to take off his hands. I would do it, but they are all coils. I may have to break down and buy some pie pans one day.
Reply:The fluxcore slag is minimal and very easy to remove.Lincoln HD100 .035 Innershield is what I use.