Some practice w/ aluminum

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Heres are some pics from tonight. I think i start off ok, but then i think i am getting it too hot. I was playing around with the frequency and balance. I am not really sure what the frequency is for? Correct me if i am wrong, but does the balance control cleaning and/or penitration? Because i set the balance on 99 and i could get any pubble, just melting the aluminum. Then i set it on 30 and it puddled up nice and i think i can see where the aluminum was being cleaned around the bead. So left the balance around 60, seemed like a nice balance.... By the way i was using the dynasty 200, with a 3/32 red tungsten, and obviously argon. I know i'll get, but suggestions GREATLY appreciated....ThanksTroy Attached Images
Reply:some more.... Attached Images
Reply:Looks decent so far. Even practicing, make sure you still clean your material.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I cleaned the aluminum with a 50 grit sanding disc on my new Harbor freight 4" hand held grinder.... Not bad for 13.99... I seen your aluminum work MIRCO... Very nice.
Reply:Originally Posted by MustangousMIRCO...
Reply:looks ok so far..from what i see it goes from too cold..to just right..to too hot..and dont use 50 grit sandpaper on it  you dont want to "grain" the material..and some of the grit embeds itself in the aluminum and thats a  also.. use a stainless steel "toothbrush" and acetone next time..along with a clean rag you should be able to get it pretty "shiney" that way..thats all i ever use..no matter how grimey it starts out as..when you get your puddle happening...look at the size of it..use your footpedal to try to keep it uniform as you go..if it gets wider its getting too hot so back off the pedal a little..you'll get the hang of it..heck you already have.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:opps... sorry about the spelling.... late night... Thanks for tips everyone... I didnt know about the sand paper... ThanksI'll have to get some acetone. I heard some where that you have to keep the acetone far away from the where your welding when you are using high frequency... Is that true?Could anyone tell me what the frequencey adjustment is for? I have it at 90, but tried 120 but dont see a difference...Thanks everyone...
Reply:I agree with Zap, keep the sand paper and grinding to a minimum to keep it clean. I don't know of a situation where your acetone needs to be a certain distance away from your High Freq. It has never posed a problem in my shop. But we are using pressurized canisters if that would make a difference. Bill
Reply:Fill in that crater at the end of your weld, it's a breeding ground for cracks.
Reply:as far as the crater at the end of the weld..we'll get to that sooner than later..ACETONEi keep what i'm useing in a "bigger" sized coffee can...about 1/4 way full..keep the gallon jugs in a storage area away from the welding area..sparks from grinding and all... but as far as what your useing...do not leave it on the bench while welding anything  yes somehow someway the hi-freq. will set it off..even if its feet away...i hav'nt done it myself yet..but i have seen it done..its quite amazing actually.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:cool, great info...About the craters... They appear after i slowly take my foot off the pedal. I keep the torch there too after, but they appear right before the torch goes out...
Reply:Add another drop of filler as you back off the pedal and it will fill the crater in.
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500Add another drop of filler as you back off the pedal and it will fill the crater in.
Reply:Use a dedicated stainless steel "toothbrush."  If the aluminum isn't oily you can forget the acetone step.  Aluminum is a passivated metal, meaning it oxidizes quickly and the oxide protects the metal.  You have to remove the oxide just prior to welding.  Check your post flow and make sure you keep your torch over the weld after you have released the foot pedal and until the argon has stopped flowing.Last edited by jmcalli; 12-04-2006 at 01:29 AM.
Reply:Note that some sandpapers for metal are aluminum oxide based.  This kind of paper will contaminate the surface grinding the paper's oxides into the metal as it removes the metal's oxides.  For quick removal of heavy aluminum oxides a stainless wire wheel on a grinder works really well.  Just make sure to brush in the same direction.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Welds look really good, as you say the heat is building up, you'll need to compensate with the foot control.Not sure, could be wrong, but it appears that your shielding may be borderline.  The colder sections of weld are nice and shiny with good inert gas coverage, but the hotter sections are more dull and oxidised from inadequate shielding.  Are you using a gas lens?  If not, try one with a large cup, and don't crank up gas flow too high, it will cause turbulence and contaiminate the shielding.Also, try not to pull the hot tip of your filler wire out of the protective shield gas envelope when your dipping the filler.You're correct on the AC balance, more DCEN more penetration, more DCEP more oxide cleaning.  You can see the wide frosted area on either side of your welds, this is the cleaning action.  In some applications, the welder will dial in the cleaning so the cleaning band is not too wide and visible.The AC frequency controls the arc shape, low settings give a broad soft arc, high settings give a constricted concentrated arc.
Reply:great... Thanks for all the replies. I will keep working at it...