Anvil tiedown what works well?

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Here are several pics of one of my favorite things.  I got this awhile  back and occasionally use it.  Recently I found a taller piece of Californnia oak which will put the Anvil at "knuckle"  high.  Right now it is too low of course.   I've seen  some anvils nailed down with huge nails curled over the feet; I've seen one picture with some large L  bars hugging it but that one had an angle iron base I think so you could tighten them up.  So, what might be good to mount it down for use hopefully without damaging the feet/lower part.  It will remain near the door but inside the shop because I just would really miss it if it walked away.  The anvil is solid, weighs in at about 150#+ and probably is forged? It does not have a laminated plate "welded" to the top surface like others I've seen. I'm not sure whether that is a good thing?   I'm thinking forge... I have found some firebrick and maybe something will come of that. enjoyPapalion/Bret Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Beautiful looking anvil.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Maybe flip it over, drill and tap some blind holes in the bottom.  Then bolt it to a plate with counter sunk bolts and lag screw the plate to the wood.  I would think that would keep the clean look of the feet and still have it mounted firmly.  If you ever un-did it, the only evidence would be the tapped holes on the underside.My name's not Jim....
Reply:You could also use a router to make a recess in the wood to keep the anvil from walking.  Then glue it down with some good polyurethane construction adhesive.My name's not Jim....
Reply:One standard old method is to use two pieces of steel strap such as the stuff plumbers use for hanging pipes with; I think solid steel strap looks better than galvanized with holes. Anyway, using lag bolts, tie one end of one strap down to the log on one side, in from the end some, and run the strap over both feet on that end to the other side where the second bolt ties it down there. Do the same for the second end. Often large spikes were used instead of bolts in the old days. I've seen some where the first bolt is in the center of the first side and ties the straps for both ends, but i don't like that way for an anvil of 'standard shape and decent length; too much angle for the pull, not directed straight down enough.I have one anvil which was made with small pockets on each side in the center; I suppose a single plate on each side, with one end in the pocket and the other on a small block, could  pull each side down enough to hold it tight. Sorta like using step block clamps on a mill.
Reply:I may be new to welding but I've been blacksmithing for about 5 years.  For God's sake don't drill a hole in it anywhere.  I've used plumbers strap and it works but looks terrible.  Using the same method with chains and forged hooks looks better but the best way I've found is to set the anvil on a piece of hardwood and trace the "U" shape between the front and rear feet, cut them out and nail the "U" shaped pieces to the stump.  Use square headed nails to secure the pieces to the stump for effect.    If you're hitting the anvil hard enough to worry about knocking the anvil off then you need a bigger anvil, smaller hammer, or just lay off the steroids.  Aside of backing your truck into it, that anvil's not going anywhere.  Nice piece BTW.  I'm in need of a better anvil but just can't justify the expense now.
Reply:Make a pan 2" deep in the shape of the base of the anvil but about an inch larger, with 4 tabs on the outside edges to bolt to the stump. Fill the pan with sand 3/4 full and set the anvil in the pan of sand. This deadens the "ring" of the anvil to the point it doesn't cause hearing damage to you or your neighbors. Some put rubber belting/padding on top of the sand, some don't use sand, just rubber. That's a good looking old anvil.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Excellent,   I figure to try the hardwood retainers idea from HalfMoa first.  I did like the idea to tap and drill the base and secure to a plate  (Boostinjdm can do fantastic things with steel go check out his posts)  and it must be the German in me that loved the "beef and overkill" of that idea. Ringing ? hmm thought that was a good thing but it might get tiresome and hard on the ears.  If it does then I figure to add  a sheet of rubber  under the hardwood retainers maybe? thanks much for the ideas, I'll send along a pic when completed and a few of my old hammers are in use.   Is there a good blacksmithing site like WW is?  I saw the anvil and had to have it, it is keen isn't it. Hoping everyone finds one as nice.BretLast edited by PapaLion; 03-01-2010 at 07:53 AM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Originally Posted by PapaLionRinging ? hmm thought that was a good thing but it might get tiresome and hard on the ears.
Reply:i have seen  people weld flat stock to the feet and bend it over and lag bolt it into a stump.. never liked the idea myself..
Reply:Take a couple of horseshoes and sharpen the ends to a point and hammer them into the stump and over the toes on the anvil. If you want to kill some of the ring just stick a magnet under the horn and under the butt end. It will still have some but most will be gone.
Reply:I second the magnet method for ringing.  You can also tie a heavy cloth around the neck of the anvil but hot metal + dry cloth = fire.  It works though.  On top of those ideas hearing protection is ALWAYS a good idea irregardless of whether you've deadened the ringing.  It's akin to shooting a .22 over and over and over.  Even the sound of a 3lb hammer for 8 hours is enough to cause problems WITH the anvil "silenced".  Did I mention eye protection?  Sorry, can't be too safe.http://www.anvilfire.com is one of the best resources on the web.  Most blacksmithing sites I've found are a bit stale, not a lot of discussion going on.  Search for Paw Paw Wilson (God rest his soul, died from galvanized steel vapor poisioning) for some teriffic project ideas.  There's also a teriffic book for first timers from Lorelei Sims that was my beginning inspiration called The Backyard Blacksmith  http://www.blacksmithchic.com/   She's truly an artist and I get to drive by her shop about 5 times a week so that's cool too.  May your anvil never rust from lack of use.
Reply:Got horseshoes but I could not see why they wouldn't cut right into the feet as you used the anvil?   probably look real good however.Magnets R a cool idea gotta try thatWill do HalfMoa I'll check those sites out. You are 100% absolutely correct on eye protection/ears too.  I got some rust into an eye from stupidity once/grinding and had to have it dug out... hmmm well the SECOND time (or event Stupid2 as I refer to it as), was I moved some rusty pipe and then wiped my eyes! Sheesh.  Go to the Doc. get it dug out use the steroids  they give ya. What a mess. and hurt.  Is that why they call it TINnitus 'cus you get a tin ear from beating up steel all dayBretenjoyLast edited by PapaLion; 03-01-2010 at 09:00 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Shoes for the 'baby'!I made a couple of these for each of my anvils.  They work great.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmYou could also use a router to make a recess in the wood to keep the anvil from walking.  Then glue it down with some good polyurethane construction adhesive.
Reply:I finally got this oak stump home.  It is heavy! Like an engine kinda' heavy.  That changes things some, I was hoping to keep it in the barn, roll/walk it out for extended use...that is not going to work because the total will be more than this ol' guy can even move.  So?  maybe rethink a bit.   Build a forge area outside with steel fencing, a thief resistent roof  and a bulletproof locked gate (German overkill as usual,my first choice) ... keep it inside and find a way to move it outside when needed.  or choice 3? KISS, I dunno. Pic enclosed: It is 30" high, has about a 15 degree slant on top so that will need to be squared up to get the anvil level. Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:One idea (it's what I've got planned for mine): casters attached to one side so that they just touch the ground.  Then put a pair of wheelbarrow type handles coming out of the other side (maybe wood, or maybe you cut a channels in the side of the stump, put in square tubing, and insert the handles when they're needed).  In any case, when you lift the handles, the wheels get levered down as the other side of the stump raises -- and the whole assembly can roll.  (Slowly, sure -- but roll.)Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:four railroad spikes are an easy fix.your right about the top, your anvil is cast steel made for centaur forge by kohlswa anvils in sweden.they are excellent anvils.Felon Attached ImagesCaution lurker lives here" hmmm That is serious,pass the ganja and pick up a  24 of MGD"
Reply:Jack: that might just work keen. I'll ponder that idea. Felony:  What is the chain around the anvil for?  I see those spikes...haven't made a final choice on technique yet.  I got spikes howeverps: You got one more nice anvil too! lots of goodies to go with it, what do you call those pieces?Last edited by PapaLion; 03-09-2010 at 05:31 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Papalion said"Felony: What is the chain around the anvil for? I see those spikes...haven't made a final choice on technique yet. I got spikes howeverps: You got one more nice anvil too! lots of goodies to go with it, what do you call those pieces?"The chain around the anvil dulls the ringing of the anvil.this becomes a hearing issue when bashing steel for a few hours.they are hardy tools hence they fit in the hardy hole.cone for shaping rings etc,smaller bic anvil for delicatework,etc etc etc.there are several more on the other sideFelonCaution lurker lives here" hmmm That is serious,pass the ganja and pick up a  24 of MGD"
Reply:Pieces of angle with holes drilled in one side. Hook it over the base and lag bolt it down.
Reply:I like the built in cup holder on bottom of that oak stump!
Reply:Yea we had that "custom" grown in when we ordered it ..California  White Oak someone tells me.I'm thinking to place the stump outside in what will be the forge/work area ... then make a small sling for the anvil and take my tractor FEL and move it there from the shop if I'm going to use it a lot.  I can't carry it, but the tractor canLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:5 anvils in my shop,connot live without one close by. AS far as anchoring them down all of mine are on steel bases.as I am in the Fl Keys ,oak hard to come by. Most I use a truck wheel for base with 6" pipe upright and piece of plate on top. This makes it simple,just bend straps around base of anvil and weld them down to plate. Just my two cents worth as I have not checked the forum for a while, been to Bike Week in Daytona.   Keep up the good work Jim