How to remove pressed fit bushings... (one method)

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Here is a trick of the trade that some of you members may find helpful seeing that it seems a lot of the members are messing around with tractors, machinery.... farm equipment etc. I use this method frequently to remove pin bushings, I also use it to remove wheel bearing races when doing brakes in heavy class truck.. In this case I'm rebushing the tynes of a Young grapple.... the same one I've been posting pics of.... In the 1st pic you see that the end of the bore where the seal would usually sit (the seal is LLOONNGG gone) is mushroomed over. http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010017.jpgFirst thing is to clean up the opening of the bore.... I use a die grinder with a stone. Be careful not to remove any more material than needed.http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010018.jpgClean up the bushing surface, removing any grease or oil. Next begin welding the inside of the bushing, I run my bead across the bushing in a series of stringer beads starting at 6 o'clock and working my way to 3 and 9 o'clock. The theory is that the weld will shrink the bushing making it easier to remove. Once you have welded 1/2 way around the bushing try to drive it out. Use a bar or a punch, pass it through the other end of the bore so you will be hitting the inside shoulder of the bushing you are removing..... few taps with a hammer and....http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010019.jpghttp://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010020.jpgThe bushing is out.... the wall thickness and length of the bushing will play a role in how much you need to weld before it will free up. Try to cover the bushing all the way across , not just the end (BE CAREFUL NOT TO WELD THE BUSHING INTO THE BORE) . Some situations have required me to weld multiple layers before it would come out.There are other ways to approach this type of work, torch... carbon arc... slice rods... etc. but when there is concern about scaring the wall of bore this is a safe method.Hope someone finds this useful......_________________Chris
Reply:Yep- Just like taking out the valve seats on a cylinder head.Hobart 140 Handler w/ gasHyperTherm Powermax 380 Plasmaoxy/acetylene
Reply:i think a torch is faster but what ever floats your boat.  I had to litterally replace every bushing and pin on an excavator today.  I just cut all he bushings out, and one pin... none of them were nice enough to just tap out.
Reply:i do the same thing for bearing racesChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:That's a neat trick.  I had one of those little 5 minute jobs today that ended up taking a little longer than I expected.  I decided to change out the busted up hard rubber tires on my old hand truck for some pneumatic, all terrain types.  The bearings ended up being froze onto the axles.  Tried heating them and beating them off with the BFH, got frustrated and ended up cutting them off with the torch.  Total carnage!  Smashed wheels, little ball bearings, and burnt pieces of the races all over the floor.  But I wasn't going to let those things kick my a$$.  I showed them!!  Ha! Work HARDER, not smarter! ------------------------ Miller Bobcat 250Millermatic 251Lincoln Precision TIG 185Hypertherm PM 600Hobart 135 HandlerOxweld 400 FlameMaster
Reply:Works great on motorcycle wheel bearing races also as it seems like most of the aftermarket wheels dont leave provisions in the race land to allow ya to get a punch against em from the back.Usualy ya can get away with just running a fusion pass around the race but occasionly ya got actualy run a bead with filler..usualy caused by poor machining or some dumba@@ getting the race cocked and resorting to the BFH method to get it seated
Reply:Last set of bushings I had to remove were nowhere near that big, in a Turbo 350 transmission.  I just split them with a diamond point cold chisel.I never thought of shrinking bushings with weld, though.  That's a good idea.  I may have to use that somewhere in the future.
Reply:Originally Posted by ridgerunnerWorks great on motorcycle wheel bearing races also as it seems like most of the aftermarket wheels dont leave provisions in the race land to allow ya to get a punch against em from the back.Usualy ya can get away with just running a fusion pass around the race but occasionly ya got actualy run a bead with filler..usualy caused by poor machining or some dumba@@ getting the race cocked and resorting to the BFH method to get it seated
Reply:we use liquid nitrogen to freeze the bushing's for installation and heat pin  boss to about 300 degress usually they go right in but if your too slow keep a hammer near lol.
Reply:we also lance pins out we have several sizes and the big one is 11 feet long youser.
Reply:Originally Posted by Dipper Welder64we use liquid nitrogen to freeze the bushing's for installation and heat pin  boss to about 300 degress usually they go right in but if your too slow keep a hammer near lol.