Ford 8.8 Axle Tube Welding

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I am looking to weld the axle tubes on a Ford 8.8 to the center pumpkin. The axle is being used on a Jeep I am building for semi-serious offroading. Anyhow, the center diff is cast steel, tubes are steel. I am looking at putting 3 beads around each tube so that 1/2 of the circumference is welded (I figure that is enough and a complete bead is not necessary). Anything special needed to weld to the cast steel?Can it be done with my PM215, mild steel wire, and 75/25?I have read on an offroading forum that low-nickel stick is the way to go, but isn't that for welding to cast iron?Thanks,MikeBuilding a Jeep from the ground up as a graduation present for my kid. Build thread can be read at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306Mike
Reply:Not too sure what process will work, but are you sure you want to use an 8.8? The aftermarket options are very limited, you may want to switch to a 9" for parts availabilitys.
Reply:The choice of nickel based rod is to reduce chances of cracking.  I suggest that you at least preheat the casting to 200 F before welding.  That will minimize the chance of cracking.  The crack if it happens will appear in the heat affected zone next to your weld bead.  You are not welding cast iron however you are welding some sort of low alloy steel.
Reply:You will have no problem welding the housing with standard ER70S wire in a MIG. Clean the area really well and since your welding it, you might as well just weld it 360*.Just stitch welding it may still allow the tubes to leak oil after some trail use. Since the tubes are only held in by the factory "weld buttons" it still may move and cause a problem down the road since the tube isn't fully sealed to the center section.I'd recommend welding the tubes in 4 quadrants. Stagger the welds and let the housing cool between each pass.- Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Here are some good articles showing upgrades, swaps, and general info about 8.8's.http://www.macamar.com/sitefiles/for...p/AxleSwap.htmhttp://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ford8_8/http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/8.8axle/8.8axle-1.htmhttp://www.mustangandfords.com/proje...armer_rearend/- Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Originally Posted by maxyedorNot too sure what process will work, but are you sure you want to use an 8.8? The aftermarket options are very limited, you may want to switch to a 9" for parts availabilitys.
Reply:Originally Posted by ZTFabYou will have no problem welding the housing with standard ER70S wire in a MIG. Clean the area really well and since your welding it, you might as well just weld it 360*.Just stitch welding it may still allow the tubes to leak oil after some trail use. Since the tubes are only held in by the factory "weld buttons" it still may move and cause a problem down the road since the tube isn't fully sealed to the center section.I'd recommend welding the tubes in 4 quadrants. Stagger the welds and let the housing cool between each pass.- Paul
Reply:what ZT said and grind your stop and starts before tieing in the next weldChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:Ive never welded up a rear myself but Ive watched my friend do it at his chassis shop and he uses a jig that he made to ensure that the tubes dont warp when he welds them up, its also a good idea to add some braces to them as well, 8.8's can be very strong I have one in my car that has gone on 8 second passes in the 1/4 mile but they do have to be welded and braced up
Reply:A 9-inch chunk fits right in the 8.8 housing. I've had a few CJ's myself. The 9-inch swap and some 1-piece axles are a must.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe HA 9-inch chunk fits right in the 8.8 housing. I've had a few CJ's myself. The 9-inch swap and some 1-piece axles are a must.
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecretyouve got the idea with the 9" swap.  MUCH stronger.  I'd have a hard time chocking down that the 8.8 is equal to or stronger than a D44.  Both are half tons, and the 8.8 is notorious for having issues (hence so many mods being available).  Its still no axle to turn your nose up at depending on the application.I guess I ought to add along with everyone else that Ive had numerous Jeeps, LC's, and even had a Unimog and 5ton.  Used to work for 6 States Distributors too if that makes any big whoop.
Reply:Mike,Thanks for that beta, and yeah it looks like a good candidate.  I'd trust Warn (since I used to work there as well).  I really wasnt trying to pick on you at all if it came off that way.  Ive worked on lots of rigs running D44's on 40"+ tyres, and so few break it seems (or at least I'd exp[ect more)!  Ive got a 35 spline HD D44 in my 65' J300, and have never had any probs (and I should with well over 500bhp).Like I said though, the 8.8 is not a bad axle at all, and for 33's it will DEFINITELY be capable.  Wish I could be there to help wrench!Where you located?Last edited by DirtyLittleSecret; 03-02-2007 at 07:38 PM.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Located in Ledyard, CT (near the biggest casino in the world - Foxwoods). I was born in Medford, grandfather was a commercial dory boat salmon fisherman in Pacific City, and I grew up just south of Seattle.Definitely familiar with your part of the world.Also, I didn't think you were coming off harshly in your post.MikeBuilding a Jeep from the ground up as a graduation present for my kid. Build thread can be read at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306Mike
Reply:I did a 8.8 install in my TJ about 15 months ago.  It has 4.56 gears and front/rear ARB's.  Is a great swap for a Jeep:New Brackets installed:In the Jeep with the new Crane cover:Mike