Trailer Pictures

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Heres some begining pics...I got the coupler welded up, But my garage isnt long enough to weld to tounge to the trailer. So Im going to have to save that for last.As you can see my garage is quite small, allot of these welds are being done while I am contorted in one way or another. That and it seems there is a sweet spot in the gun cable where if I get it just so I dont get any shielding gas out of the nozzle. Ive had to redo several welds. Attached Images
Reply:Looks good so far.. You get all the fun jobs.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:haha...fun jobs...Ive asked myself a couple times.."Why am I building another trailer?"
Reply:Looking good!Give us some info for the trailer. Size? Use? paint, powder?Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:how much will you have invested when its done,ive been contiplating building one but im wondering how cost effective it is when you can buy a 16 footer for around 800 bucks,great job so far
Reply:Originally Posted by paintmanhow much will you have invested when its done,ive been contiplating building one but im wondering how cost effective it is when you can buy a 16 footer for around 800 bucks,great job so far
Reply:Originally Posted by Patriot PerformanceLooking good!Give us some info for the trailer. Size? Use? paint, powder?
Reply:Originally Posted by Patriot PerformanceGood question. I have been debating the same thing. I want to build a little 6x10 just to haul lumber and steel in since my truck is a short bed. Are there realy any cost advantages?
Reply:Originally Posted by OpieUnless you can get materials at a discount, the only advantage to building is the satisfaction factor.
Reply:Few more pics....Turns out I have JUST enough room in the garage to get the tounge welded on. Thats good because its coooooold here this week....it was -6 this morning on the thermometer. Attached Images
Reply:Looking good so far. Are you using FCAW on that Lincoln? Nice beads on it and good material for a heavy duty trailer.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:No FCAW..Using solid wire and 75/25 mix. Ive got the wire speed dialed down a bit from optimum so as to get good penetration. Im also doing multiple passes where needed.
Reply:Ah, my mistake. I saw a little spatter and thought fcaw. Maybe burning it a little hot ? I see the sides of your beads are deeper than the metal.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I doubt Im too hot...minimum thickness Im working with is 1/4...and the channel is thicker than that in the corners.I know the spatter makes it look like FCAW...and I dont know why..but nothing that cant be fixed with the 4.5" grinder.Speaking of the 4.5" grinder....Im making all my cuts using a Dewalt and a 1/8" cutting disk. Ive gone through about 7 of them so far!! I actually bought a second grinder so I can keep a grinding wheel in one and a cutting wheel in the other.
Reply:Aaaaah, I thought of it now. It is not enough gas, I had to think about it and do a little investigating. Less stickout and spatter is a definate sign of not enough gas. What is your regulator set at?John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Those welds are not lacking in shielding gas, if that were the case you would see porosity on the surface, and could tell if it was underneath the surface. While lack of shielding gas is not good, it is not the key cause of spatter. The major causes of spatter are (my opinion) 1.) Gun angle, 2.) stickout and 3, incorrectly set parameters. In certain instances a different shielding gas can help reduce spatter, but changing to a different gas isn't always the best answer. To test this, next time you are welding on some scrap, vary your gun angles, and increase your stickout, you should see a lot more spatter with incorrect gun angles and stickout.
Reply:I mentioned stickout but I think I worded it weird. You're correct about the porosity and on the last picture it looks like some. IMO, the 2nd to last pic looks great, compared to the last pic. Just a little corrective criticism and trying to make an observation. No harm intended. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by ss42768Those welds are not lacking in shielding gas, if that were the case you would see porosity on the surface, and could tell if it was underneath the surface. While lack of shielding gas is not good, it is not the key cause of spatter. The major causes of spatter are (my opinion) 1.) Gun angle, 2.) stickout and 3, incorrectly set parameters. In certain instances a different shielding gas can help reduce spatter, but changing to a different gas isn't always the best answer. To test this, next time you are welding on some scrap, vary your gun angles, and increase your stickout, you should see a lot more spatter with incorrect gun angles and stickout.
Reply:Opie,I am curious about your sawing.  What's your setup?  I see you are using one of the chainsaw-based dohickies, but the two slotted metal thingies on the log...are you using those as your guide for the saw?  You got a pretty nice cut there.  Who is the maker of you sawmill attachment?Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:If I can interject, Northern has them for a decent price: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6891_200316891I've thought about getting one myself. I love the look of rough cut lumber. I had a local mill cut 6x6's for my building. So glad I went that route, saved $600 too!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by smithboyOpie,I am curious about your sawing.  What's your setup?  I see you are using one of the chainsaw-based dohickies, but the two slotted metal thingies on the log...are you using those as your guide for the saw?  You got a pretty nice cut there.  Who is the maker of you sawmill attachment?
Reply:Looks like I missed the pic of my lumber pile... Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneIf I can interject, Northern has them for a decent price: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6891_200316891I've thought about getting one myself. I love the look of rough cut lumber. I had a local mill cut 6x6's for my building. So glad I went that route, saved $600 too!
Reply:Very cool, is it a one person operation with one of those units? I see the handle on the other side.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Yeah, pretty much. It never hurts to have another set though!!!That's cool. It's probably better to have a bigger saw for the long cuts/hard wood? Thanks for the info.!John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:As a general rule 90cc or bigger. I use a 660, which is 91 or 93cc, I cant remember. I usually have a 28" bar in the mill, which gives me 22" of cut. Ive been debating getting either an 084, or an 880, which are both 121cc saws...or there is the king of all the saws, the 090, 136cc.
Reply:Hahaa, ya those are some big saws. Mine is WAY small to be doing the stuff. I guess I would have to bump up to a bigger unit.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Opie,Thanks for that group of pictures.  I have only seen these things work in "theory" and never in practice.  My father is always complaining about the price he pays for lumber.  He has enough hardwood on his land to supply him, but no easy way to turn it into boards or posts.  We have been talking about building a new big barn...this is an idea he will probably like.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Smith...If you want more pics..look here..http://www.arboristsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=62I have lots of pics posted in there, and there are many other guys there that have a better set-up than I do.
Reply:More pics....I think I may have to cut the tounge off and reposition. Im 38" from coupler to the front frame rail on one side of the tounge, and 37.5" on the other. My coupler to each rear corner measurements are spot on though. go figure. Attached Images
Reply:It's coming along nicely. Right now my trailer is buried under 7 feet of snow. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:So you are the one stealing all of our MI snow!!!It would be nice to get some real snow this year.
Reply:Stealing no...  God has blessed up with it.  It's not bad, I took my son out sledding in the front yard and climbed up the 10ft. snow bank, only to repeat and re-do a bunch more times. Good fun! He had a blast. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I think I may have to cut the tounge off and reposition. Im 38" from coupler to the front frame rail on one side of the tounge, and 37.5" on the other. My coupler to each rear corner measurements are spot on though. go figure.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyMeasure from the coupler to points on the forward axle. It's going to track based on orientation to the axle. Good work.
Reply:Originally Posted by OpieAfter I got my coupler to rear corners set, I positioned my hangers equal distance from the coupler. I know the way I have it now it will track straight...What im worried about is it pulling more to the left of my truck than being centered behind it!!
Reply:Originally Posted by lorenzoYou'll never see a 1/2", so long as you know the racking is all set, if it's a big to do just leave it.
Reply:Here she is all hitched up....Took a couple times around the block and pulled beautifully. Other than still being a bit light on the suspension, Im very pleased. Getting the decking on, deciding wether or not Im going to do stake pockets or angle sides, and letting some air out of the tires should smooth up the ride nicely. Attached Images
Reply:Looks great Opie! That is just the size I am wanting to build. The ride should ease up once you get some weight in it.Also I would do stake pockets, that way you can keep your logs from rolling off and have plenty of tie offs.Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:Yeah..I am leaning towards stake pockets..having removable sides is allot more handy then a rail 16" high all the way around. Not to mention then I can make the sides as high as I want...enough to get a full cord of split firewood on.
Reply:Originally Posted by OpieMore pics....
Reply:Here she is all hitched up....
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyLooks like some of the smaller stuff might fall through the deck!!
Reply:What are you doing for a deck? Wood or steel?_________________Chris
Reply:I thought about some diamond treadplate..allot of the time I am running a chainsaw on the trailer, and wood deck will be more forgiving to my chains. The 2x2 angle fit into the 4" channel just so that the decking will sit flush with the top of the channel.
Reply:looks good keep up the good work!
Reply:Finally got some free time this afternoon, so I started on the fenders. Attached Images
Reply:Looks good, making them out of 2" angle?John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:yup, 2x2x1/4. Ill cover them with 1/8 plate.