Project: My SMAW needs major work

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This is my first project with my Hobart stickmate.  It has probably been 5 yrs since I have done any arc welding.   Man I need some practice. This is a sleeve hitch ball adapter that I made up to work with IH Cub Cadet garden tractors.1/8" 6011 rod was usedI also have 1/8" 6013 and 1/8" 7014.  Should I have used one of my other rods? Attached ImagesLast edited by IH Cub Cadet; 05-07-2004 at 02:17 PM.
Reply:I am a rookie, but it looks like you were running a little hot.  The metal bracket is warped and the welds look like mine when I run the amps too high.But heck, I bet it won't fall apart anyhow.
Reply:I agree, but that is one problem joining two different thicknesses of plate, I guess I should have pointed the rod towards the thicker plate more.  (The edges were beveled)
Reply:Cadet,Why don't you run some beads on some flat stock, chip the slag and take some pics with something for reference in the picture.  It's really hard to see what's what post wire wheel and rattle can.  These guy's will get you sorted out.6011 isn't going to be as pretty as the other rods anyway.You can try the 7014.  I can't run it well on my AC box but it ran pretty nice for me today on a DC gen welder.  I wouldn't use the 6013 for that part.  That part looks to be designed to take shock loads.  6013 isn't and it is a shallow penetrator to boot.  If you were reattaching a fender bracket, then I'd recommend the 6013.
Reply:With that joint there was no need to bevel, in fact it probably made it warp more.  I think the heat is about right, need to work on consistancy and proper technique.  This is a real issue with these type of electrodes and its difficult to teach on a puter.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:IH Cub Cadet, You might try some 7024 on a joint like this since you can position it. 7024 runs excellent on an AC machine has excellent penetration, de-slags easy and looks great. Just keep in mind that 7024 has a fluid puddle and likes to be run flat.
Reply:Any of  the major electrodes would work for that.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:This morning before school (middle school teacher by trade), I finished the heavier duty version of the hitch.  I did turn the heat down a bit and I think that I have discovered that I don't keep the tip of the electrode, down close enough to the work.  I find that I pull back to about a 1/4 to 5/16 of an inch a lot.  The following pics are before and after wire wheel and primer.  Don't laugh too loud.I still am using the 6011 1/8"a:mvc-0110S.jpgLast edited by IH Cub Cadet; 05-11-2004 at 01:27 PM.
Reply:Hopfully this post will have the picturesLast edited by IH Cub Cadet; 05-11-2004 at 01:38 PM.
Reply:Lets try this again. . . Attached Images
Reply:here is another one Attached Images
Reply:and an other, and an other Attached Images
Reply:one last photo for submission Attached Images
Reply:Here is my question for the more experienced... The welds look more than adequate, and similar to some of mine when I go pouring on the juice. would it jeapordise the integrity of the weld if you were to clean it up with a grinder, knocking everything down to a clean level?
Reply:IH cub I would be careful to not turn those amps down too much. That up close pick that is first looks a little cold to me and your consistency will come in time. one thing that has helped me when learning is to count to myself while whipping the rod ( strike ark,pause,whip out and in and pause,1,2,whip,pause1,2,ect.ect.) Maybe that can help with consistency.no you cant fix it with a hot pass.BORN TO LOSE, LIVE TO WIN.
Reply:Hey man,Why don't ya try 7018 electrode.Clean the metal up and use a 3/32 7018 or even a  1/8 7018 should be fine.To add also if ya use 7018 rods you can drag the rod along on the metal ,no need for a long arc length.Last edited by baymen; 05-03-2007 at 06:27 AM.
Reply:[QUOTE=baymen] Welder's Have Hotter Rods!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:Hi Cub Cadet,I am a teacher too. Currently at high school teaching shop, but have taught welding at tech colleges for years.If I may offer some advice?I would try next time to keep the arc very short - say the diameter of the core wire and keep feeding the rod in at a consistent rate to equal what is being burnt away. 6013 rods are fine for your application.What I see in the bead is - travel speed too quick and arc length too long.Distortion or warping occurs from too much heat.One source is too long an arc length and the other -the amps setting is too high and a third is overwelding of the joint.The leg length  dimension of a joint does not need to be be in excess of the minimum thickness of that joint.To explain further,if your plate thickness is 1/4" then your measurement of the weld bead measured from toe to vertical plate + toe to horizontal plate need not be greater than 1/4".The limiting factor is the minimum thickness because the joint strength is dictated by the minimum thickness.In any case I don't think strength wise,  it is a whole lot to worry about. Being Aussie i am not familiar with the Cub Cadet but take it to be some sort of  light lawn tractor ride on machine. The draw bar capacity would not  be that great and I feel it would suffice if used solely on your property.Don' worry too much ,you will be running great beads in no time.Grahame
Reply:You guys realize, to the day, this post is almost 3 years old?  Hopefully, he has picked up a few pointers since then. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZoneYou guys realize, to the day, this post is almost 3 years old?  Hopefully, he has picked up a few pointers since then.