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it was "take camera to class day" ...wish camera stayed home.

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发表于 2021-9-1 00:31:51 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Open to feedback/critique/flaming. Also, wanted to apologize in advance for any mental trauma these photos may have caused you...Starting it off is 6011 in the flat position7018 flat on some scrap i think 3/8ths?Second pass 50/50 on scrapstop/restart.7018 horizontal needed to speed up a little bit there...7018 vert...... as you can see, needs a hell of a lot more practice...Last edited by Crawford; 03-25-2010 at 10:33 PM.
Reply:and same with mig.... Yikes...videos of MIG coming soon, had a question about it. will post when vids are uploaded.Last edited by Crawford; 03-25-2010 at 10:48 PM.
Reply:Your mig looks allot better.  With the stick I see that your using 6011 as opposed to 7018 at least based on the stub and the degree of spatter though I do see what looks like 7018 in two pics.  With the spatter you should close up the arc gap and adjust your angle to make sure it stays the same all the way through.  With the vertical up you should try a tight Z weave pattern or a ladder weave to cut out the sag, I've never been able to run a string vertical up and I applaud those who can.Closing the arc gap and working the angles will cut out a vast majority of the spatter even with 6011 rod.  Another thing that will cause spatter that you may experience is arc blow and aside from arc gap and angle another thing that causes it is magnetic fields which I have run into over the last two weeks with the addition of a new welding jig arm on my table.  To correct this relocate the ground clamp onto the weldmont if you have it on a jig for vertical up / horizontal / overhead.  When I've experienced it it is always at the top of a vert up on one side and the same on a hor at the end on the top bead.  One last thing is to get all of that slag off the plate and beads and make sure you prep the plate before you run beads, making it a habit now will benefit you when it comes time to run bend tests and dye tests.
Reply:Mopar (lovem)the only three pictures showing 6011's are the first three, everything else is 7018 and a lincoln 135 plus on 1/8th inch. just had a 6011 rod piece laying around to use since i had no dimes on me .with the vertical up i've tried everything, i can do 6011 vert up, but it isn't anything to be proud of, 7018 is just something i can't get the hang of yet...
Reply:The mig sounds wrong on the settings. My thought is the wire feed may be too fast and is stubbing into the work. The pict of the mig isn't the best so it's hard to really say much. What I see doesn't look like what I would expect using a weave like you show in the video. The beads however don't look like they overlaped. They look like they were run side by side from what I can see in the pict..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThe mig sounds wrong on the settings. My thought is the wire feed may be too fast and is stubbing into the work. The pict of the mig isn't the best so it's hard to really say much. What I see doesn't look like what I would expect using a weave like you show in the video. The beads however don't look like they overlaped. They look like they were run side by side from what I can see in the pict.
Reply:Waste of time finishing that bead with the 135.. you know it is not welding correctly right from the start.Clean the mill scale off and attach the ground directly to the work.The 135 is marginal and it needs all the help it can get.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1Waste of time finishing that bead with the 135.. you know it is not welding correctly right from the start.Clean the mill scale off and attach the ground directly to the work.The 135 is marginal and it needs all the help it can get.
Reply:Don't be too hard on yourself just yet Crawford. The vertical just takes time, and the mig just needs prep and ... lots more power. I always share this clip, though it is not mine.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by Crawfordthe welder didn't feel like it was stubbing nor was the wire pushing into the metal causing the gun to kick back, the welder itself wouldnt stay consistent even varying the stick out and wire speed from 4-7 out of 10 at the same power setting.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyDefinitely cold. Doesn't seem like that thing was putting out much does it?  One thing you probably don't know about is the shops power layout. Could be they are running whole bunches of things off whatever circuit you were plugged into? That brings us to motions. In that 1st video you were making some serious motions just like that thing was about to burn a hole through the practice piece and table both. Let the puddle dictate. If there is no puddle, no sense going much further. Of course I realize you are being instructed to do these things whether the machine is capable or not, but watch the puddle more, then move accordingly.
Reply:Originally Posted by Crawford ..........there's 28 stalls in the shop, out of which 20 or so have migs, the wiring in this place is 33 years old and all of us have to use mig at the same time..... there is no physical puddle at all, it's completely cold, visibly it looks like an extremely dull dark orange in the low end of visible heat spectrum....
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyYeh, not trying to hand you excuses
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyYeh, not trying to hand you excuses but it looked like there was just nothing there. Do what you can with it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Broccoli1... but he won't be able to do anything with it- at least not 1/8"and how does a Welding Class exist w/o a grinder?
Reply:Harbor Freight has chicago grinders for $20 a pop so get you one and get regular stone plus a flap disc.With the vertical up its one of those things that is like that scene from the very first star wars where Luke is practicing with the light saber while wearing a helmet with a blast shield over his eyes and trying to hit a moving sphere so keep at it and you will get it, it took me nearly 7 months to get it down with the Z weave.
Reply:Crawford where are you at? Add your location to the User CP at the top left so we all know. If you're near me PM me and I'll let you try mine. Mig is way simpler than stick. That machine sounds like it's making your life difficult for no reason. I would have had that whole thing filled solid by break time in one class with a decent 220v mig.I like that one Mopar... I'll have to remember that. "Use the force Luke...Your eyes can deceive you, don't use them..." I can see Han's response now.. "Hokey religions and ancient welders, are no match for a good tig by your side."    .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:When doing 7018 vertical,rod pointing slightly upward-- establish weld pool--move slightly up and over. You will start a zig zag type pattern. When you move out of the puddle, you will see a red tail behind your rod. Pay attention to the tail-----move-----when tail catches up----move again-----tail catches up move again  etcWork on one process and rod at a time. Jumping around to different processes, rod type, and positions is not beneficial to learning. Your tie in looks really good as well.UA Local 598
Reply:Ya your tie in looks good with the stick, but that mig is way under powered to even do a proper bead on a flat,  omg if you was doing a t joint or something,it would look like bubble gum globs... I guess he is showing how a under powered rig will not work!!!   and bust your moral as they say it's supposed to do it on what your working on but it don't.....clean clean clean and maybe preheat it somehow throw it on some hot work or something....and the instructor will chit when you get some results with that lil dude,hang in there and be patient and the uphill take the others advice as I can't get it to look better than bird crap but downhill I can do well it all comes in time lots of time keep it upLincoln 225 Tombstone,Miller Big 20,Hobart 180,150' Argon,A/D hobart hood 22 Ton Log splitter,79 F350 dump eats 4.75 TONS and still turns cutters,grinders,And a  Hypertherm POWERMAX 30
Reply:Would it be worth it to grind out the previous beads? or just leave them in there and focus on the mill scale?
Reply:I would grind out the old beads myself with the mig. You could weld over them, but as cold as they are, you'd just make it that much harder to get a good looking weld, and this issue will just keep continuing to transmit thru each layer. If you had a BIG machine, you could crank up the heat and just burn it all in, but you don't seem to have that option.Get used to grinding out bad welds. That's the right way to fix a problem. We all have them at one point or another. Gas runs out, tip get clogged, cable catches on something and throws off your rythem... Just grind out the bad and redo it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:to pre-heat the steel i'd be stuck using the oxy-acetylene torch w/ cutting head attachment, what am i lookin at for pre-heating? 300*? or more?
Reply:You really just need to take the "chill" from the steel so our Oxy-Acet would work fine. I live where some days it's -40 celcius so that's where you sometimes need some serious preheating. Your vertical was described earlier by another poster. Your first pass on a verticle up is always a stringer and other passes almost always weaves either Z or box weaves. You need to only move each pass up around a half a rod width or your step will be too high.Make sure to move your rod a bit quicker across the center and hold a bit longer on the sides and wait for the puddle to follow. When your puddle is on your rod side it's safe to move across to the other side.. Make sense?. Also your machine is set too cold is what they're saying. I wouldn't think you'd need preheat, but you likely need more amperage for a more fluid puddle. Also work with a 3 point stance so you're comfortable and if you combine a good travel speed with comfort, and let your puddle and heat work for you proper you'll lay nicer beads.Good luck!
Reply:Thanks for the vertical tips, seems like maybe I wasn't moving fast enough with the 7018 vertical, but I was watching the tail/puddle behind the rod, and just continued to watch metal flow down into globs.. it never caught up to the electrode as you were describing. I'm gunna head out to a friends place thursday and practice on some 3/8ths  plate, join two or three pieces, and lay some stringers and weaves flat to try to get my consistency down better... it's gunna be on an AC box though, we'll see how that goes.
Reply:Vertical's one of the toughest to master. Don't beat yourself up. Just burn alot of rod and you'll get it!it's like someone flipped a switch but took some pic's of vert 7018 today. I'd say this:is an improvement over this:not sure what i'm doin different, but I can see what i'm doing now atleast!!! still need to get more comfortable, i seem to find myself getting my hand caught up on stuff causing me to lose movement ability.as you may have noticed the large gap in the first pic, was from my glove getting snagged on the table edge."...My pappy was a pistol I'm a son of a gun...""...God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy..."
Reply:Bend test & final today in class... first picture is the root side of the bead, second is the cover pass side. no freakin clue how that slag got in there, i cleaned every pass using a flash light and even a sharpened electrode to get the little stuff out... Both failed the guided bend test.Third and fourth are 1/16th mig, better than what i was doing so I can't complain.concludes basic welding, next semester sheet metal fab & ornamental iron.Had a little fun with the camera when taking these too.  Attached ImagesLast edited by Crawford; 05-27-2010 at 07:38 PM."...My pappy was a pistol I'm a son of a gun...""...God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy..."
Reply:Here was our main stick project, two pieces of angle 2x2 3/8ths welded back to back and filled forming a 15 lb block of crooked welds, slag inclusions, and somewhere in there is some steel. Finished 3/4 sides... it's like the giant Neapolitan bar from hell flavors include: 6013, 6011, then 7018. Cutting the ends down and turning it into a door stop. Attached ImagesLast edited by Crawford; 05-27-2010 at 07:54 PM."...My pappy was a pistol I'm a son of a gun...""...God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy..."
Reply:wow 50 more views no comment?"...My pappy was a pistol I'm a son of a gun...""...God is great, beer is good, and people are crazy..."
Reply:Was it good for you? It seems like it is what you said it was, to me. Ha-ha.I guess that is ok. I never do that kind of stuff.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:please..... do what welder bc says. practice.
Reply:Wow you guys, that's awesome help you are dishing out.  Impressive and very encouraging. I love this forum!Crawford, that takes some courage to post those ;P  Keep at it!
Reply:Originally Posted by StormyWow you guys, that's awesome help you are dishing out.  Impressive and very encouraging. I love this forum!Crawford, that takes some courage to post those ;P  Keep at it!
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