gasless fluxcore

admin

just wondering the best way? i been trying different things and get some decent beads, just wondering whats recomended pushing or pulling? and do you just push/pull straight or do you move up and down etc? just looking for different ideas to try. Thanks
Reply:Where there is slag, drag, so pull the torch.  You can just drag it along straight, no need to do any motions, though sometimes a zig zag is helpful with fillet welds to wash in both toes.   The stickout length affects the arc voltage.  Shorter stickout makes for higher voltage and hotter weld.  Longer the opposite.  Usually a little longer stickout with fluxcore than solid wire works good.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I always move just a little, either side to side or up and down. Just enough to force the slag to the back of the puddle. I run 3/8 to 1/2-inch stick out, never the recommended 3/4-inch stickout, I don't like to see the wire dance around between the contact tip and the puddle. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:What fluxcored wire are you welding with and what machine are you using?Almost all self-shielded fluxcore filler metals should be run using a drag technique.  There are a couple very specific exceptions to this, but I doubt you're doing something that would require this.Stickout will depend on the wire diameter.  Smaller wires = shorter stickout.Generally speaking, small diameter wires (1/16") run with 1/2" - 1" of stickout.Apologies to DR, but I need to contradict him.  Reducing the stickout while wielding with FCAW-S wires causes the voltage to drop and the amperage to rise on most power supplies.  This is especially true on CC power supplies where you're welding with a voltage sensing wire feeder.  It is true to a much smaller extent on CV power supplies, which are designed to try to hold the set voltage regardless of arc length and stickout.  Again, there are a few exceptions to this but those are limited to very expensive welders that most folks aren't using.Increasing the current causes the puddle to be larger and more fluid.  Lowering the voltage causes the bead to be more convex.Increasing stickout causes the voltage to rise, and the current to fall.  Raising the voltage causes the bead to flatten out slightly, and the molten puddle to shrink(because the current drops slightly)Too short a stickout doesn't give the best pre-heat to the flux inside the wire sheath; which can make the wire run poorly and/or give poor mechanical properties.Too long a stickout can cause porosity(because the voltage is too high for the set WFS).  The higher voltage/longer arc length also can affect the how certain alloying elements transfer across the arc.  This can alter the chemistry of the weld deposit and also reduce mechanical properties.These are all just generalities and there are other factors that can affect how these wires run.  Most of these subtle differences are only important if you're doing code quality welding with filler metals that have rated impact toughness properties.  For general purpose welding(like single pass fillets on mild steel) with runofthemill fluxcore wires, just use the recommended voltages and WFS.  Then try to hold the stickout that gives the smoothest arc.  This will keep the spatter to a minimum and keep the bead shape nice and smooth. Originally Posted by rob0781just wondering the best way? i been trying different things and get some decent beads, just wondering whats recomended pushing or pulling? and do you just push/pull straight or do you move up and down etc? just looking for different ideas to try. Thanks
Reply:A Dab, I apparently was mistaken by using the word voltage and should have used current instead. I can't watch the volt/amp meter and weld at the same time, so reason for the confusion.  The gist of it is the arc is hotter when the stickout is shorter.  Apparently, it's current increase that does that rather than voltage increase.  Thank you for clarifying that point.  On .030-.045 wire I'm usually running 1/4-1/2" stick out and with 1/16 wire 1/2-3/4" stick out.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Hey rob0781,I agree with the fellows' responses regarding technique. To make it a bit easier to allow us to determine any changes to help you get better with f/c, you should post the brand & diameter of the wire you are using, the welder ratings(output), & material specs. Flux-core is a very capable process many underestimate & I use it for everything .250 jobs under the same conditions, stick is king.I use both .030 & .035 dia with f/c & kinda partial to Lincoln NR211MP, although I have Harris & Techniweld T-1 & GS. As DR-33 indicated, I also like a slight weave to tie in. You will find that your wire distance & travel speed will really vary the puddle results, so maintain a smooth consistency with each. With either dia. I use, I like to maintain 3/8or < for optimum results as I like a bit hotter arc. My other habit is to clean the weld area to bare metal.....seems to produce better joints & fillet.Keep at it as practice will reveal the areas of improvement you need.DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:I am using  .030 for welding wire and the tip, the welder is just a cheap one from princess auto( canadian version of harbour frieght) and as for heat setting and wire speed i can't really say for sure i been just playing around with the adjustments and seeing what seems to work best. Here are the specs to give everyone a better idea of the welder- 120V, 20A inputDuty cycle: 65 amps AC @ 20%Flux core wire use only2 heat settings, variable wire speed, and live wire triggerAutomatic thermal shutdown protection,90 amps AC @ 10%Here is a pic of the welder from the princess auto online catalougehttp://www.princessauto.com/welding/...ux-core-welderAs you can see it was $199 and i picked it up for $129 on sale which i think was decent for a starting out machine.
Reply:The above guys are pretty much right on about it all.For me, because I don't do much wire.............Turn the voltage up until you get a flattish (tech term) bead, and you get a snappy biting sound like running stick.  Then adjust the wire speed to fill as fast as the voltage will allow.  Don't outpace your voltage with too much wire feed.  When the bead becomes concvex (high), or the wire starts stubbing in the puddle, you've exceeded the speed for the voltage and metal thickness.It's a balancing act.  AND ONE OF THE THINGS I DON'T LIKE ABOUT WIRE MACHINES  And to be honest, I'm not a good wire welder.  At the skill level I'm at, I generally start hot, then dial back.  I can't set the parameters right on, and feel it's better to start high rather than start on the cold side.There's definitely more finesse involved with good wire welds.  NOt so much in the puddle and torch manipulation, but mainly in parameters.  Granted, wire is mostly point and shoot, but you can really wind up with dangerous welds if you don't know what's going on beneath the puddle.  Parameters are everything."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:turn your heat all the way up, if your wire speed is 1 - 10, put it at 2 and ajust from there. look at the inside cover where you put the wire, it might be on the cover itself. it might have a chart there. or look through the paper work that came with it. it might have a chart as well. i have a Lincoln 100HD weld pac. i put the heat all the way up and run the wire speed @ 2 to 3 on anything over 14 gage. if its a bad fit up of smaller gage material, i'll turn down the heat and adjust the ws accordingly. about 3\8 stickout isnt bad. i've welded alot of steel with this machine ranging from 22 gage. ( with the small stuff like this make sure you have an overlapped joint) up to 1 inch plate. these little machines run decent and are nice for portability. you just have to play with it and get it running to your liking
Reply:little 110 fluxcore= nozzle gel???
Reply:You can use nozzle gel with any wire process on any type of wire compatible power source, though it is only useful if your torch has a gas nozzle on it (many torches set up for self shield fluxcore do not have a gas nozzle).MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:my flux set up has a fluxcore sheild, i think its called. no need for any gel