how to remove galvanized coating without grinding?

admin

any advice? chemical? heat?
Reply:Buy plain steel.City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:I use a good ole high speed wire cup brush on a 4 inch grinder. It works great for me no chemical poison gases. Matter of fact i just welded galv the other night to mild steel.
Reply:electrolysis i believe can remove galv  but it does make poision so do it outsidelincoln weldpack 100hdmillermatic 180hypertherm powermax 45
Reply:Muratic Acid and some water. You can get it at any hardware store. You must always add the acid to the water. Don't know how big of parts you are doing but use a bucket and put some water in it and then about 1/4 cup of acid. It will all bubble off in a few seconds. You must rinse off the parts in hot water and baking soda or the acid will keep eating and it will rust real bad. Use rubber gloves and safety goggles and be carefull...BobBob WrightSalem, Ohio  Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drillhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawking/1999 Miller MM185 w/ Miller 185 Spoolmate spoolgun
Reply:http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...=removing+zincGood thread on using acid-be safeEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Vinager
Reply:heat the metal red hot and it will come off.  Just dont breathe the fumes.Please dont mistake my enthusiasm for talent!
Reply:I bought a gallon of muriatic from the paint store, and brushed it on with a chip brush in a big drip pan.  Wear full length chem gloves, goggles, and a respirator (or do it downwind).  As you make ZnCl2, the acid will get weaker and weaker.  When you're done, use baking soda to neutralize everything, and rinse it all off.  It's pretty simple and safe if you don't get any of the acid on your body, or breath in any of the nasty yellow vapor that comes off.
Reply:Originally Posted by madkaw284Vinager
Reply:Originally Posted by aametalmasterYou must always add the acid to the water. Bob
Reply:Mixing a strong acid (or a strong base) to water results in the liberation of a lot of heat.   When you add the strong acid (or strong base) to water, the water has the capacity to diffuse the heat slowly, as you are adding a small amount of acid (or base) to a large amount of water. When you add water to a strong acid (or a strong base), you can quickly heat that small amount of water past its boiling point, it flashes to steam, which results in the strong acid (or strong base) getting splashed all over the place from the steam explosion. AlwaysAddAcid Is the way to remember it.
Reply:"Why is this? "The strong acid and water react strongly on contact.  If you add a small amount of water to strong acid the reaction could be violent enough to splash the strong acid onto you and the surroundings.  Not good, even with protective equipment.  If you add a small amount of acid to a container of water it will be promptly diluted.  Any splash would be very dilute and relatively harmless and the heat of reaction would be quickly dissipated in the volume of water.Vinegar is fairly dilute acetic acid - dilute enough that you can put it on your food.  While it might work to remove galvanizing, I think you would need lots of patience.  Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid - HCl) from the hardware store (commonly used to clean and etch concrete prior to painting) is quite strong (and dangerous) and works fast to remove galvanizing (zinc).  It doesn't seem to react with the steel under the zinc but leaves it so chemically clean that superficial rusting will occur promptly even after thorough rinsing, so be prepared to perform your operation on the steel promptly after stripping the zinc,  then apply a protective coating of oil or paint. A quart of muriatic acid from the hardware store is only a few dollars - probably cheaper than vinegar and much more effective.  Interrestingly, the residue of reacting zinc with hydrochloric acid is zinc chloride - the same stuff you buy in a bottle as liquid acid flux for soldering.  Remember to wear goggles and/or a face splash shield,  plastic gloves (preferably gauntlets), and if you are the cautious type,  a hat and  an apron.  And old clothes.  Have some baking soda handy just in case.  Last week I was removing galvianizing from the bottom of an overhead roof gutter so I could solder on a downspout and I used all of the above, including a hard hat.awright
Reply:Originally Posted by Pontiac Freakheat the metal red hot and it will come off.  Just dont breathe the fumes.
Reply:This is a baited question. I will tell you; heating it up is NOT the recommended way to do this. Acids are acceptable, and work pretty well for electroplated galv. For good hot dipped galv, I suggest you put on a respirator and use a grinder. Wire wheels can do the job if aggressive, flap discs are a bit more consistent and faster. The acid info is very good, as to it's use, and how to safely deal with it. I WILL say; DO NOT USE THE ACID, NOR WELD GALVANIZED MATERIAL IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE. Open the garage door, and turn  on a big fan. The fumes are nothing to play with. The problem with vapor inhalation is the damage is done before you can really comprehend what has happened. Most just get a metallic taste in their mouth, and stomach sick/ headache. But it gets much, much worse. Think permanent lung and nervous system damage. Think TWICE.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:This is a baited question. I will tell you; heating it up is NOT the recommended way to do this. Acids are acceptable, and work pretty well for electroplated galv. For good hot dipped galv, I suggest you put on a respirator and use a grinder. Wire wheels can do the job if aggressive, flap discs are a bit more consistent and faster. The acid info is very good, as to it's use, and how to safely deal with it. I WILL say; DO NOT USE THE ACID, NOR WELD GALVANIZED MATERIAL IN AN ENCLOSED SPACE. Open the garage door, and turn  on a big fan. The fumes are nothing to play with. The problem with vapor inhalation is the damage is done before you can really comprehend what has happened. Most just get a metallic taste in their mouth, and stomach sick/ headache. But it gets much, much worse. Think permanent lung and nervous system damage. Think TWICE.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.