Some tig comments please

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So here are two pics from today.  Only had a few minutes to mess around with it, but was nice to be outside without freezing.Tubing is exhaust tubing I got from pep boys.  About 0.045” thick.  Used .04” 1.5% Lanthanated tungstens, #4 cup, gas at 12, 1/16” filler, amps at 38 with HF start and 4 sec post flow.  I did not use any backing dam like I should.  Seemed to get decent penetration.  Hard part is moving the frickin torch hand in a straight line as I rotate the work piece by rolling it while adding filler J.  Still a little porous in areas, but I think that could be from a lack of coordination yet.FYI, the pics make it look undercut, but it is actually protruding a little bit.  Rust color is cause I tossed them into the snow to cool them off.It’s getting better, but obviously needs a lot of work yet.Questions:1.  What is the best way to steady the torch hand in this scenario - obviously it looks like I was overdosing on caffeine, but was doing the best I could.2. How often should I be adding filler?  I was trying to weld in a triangular pattern, meaning left to right to up and back to left.  Was dipping filler everytime I got to the top.Pic 1 here, and pic 2 in next post.Thanks Attached Images
Reply:pic #2thanks for any and all suggestions, including to give it up. Attached Images
Reply:what did you clean it with before you welded?? some oils just seem to really piss of the tungsten..StangnetShop Full Of Stuff. Joey
Reply:Just used a stainless steel brush.  I have some acytone, but didn't use it since the tubing was pretty clean.  Sound I use it all the time?Thanks
Reply:What kind of machine?What are you using for filler?What's your CFH gas flow?I would pratice on flat before I tried tube.
Reply:Originally posted by Junk Just used a stainless steel brush.  I have some acytone, but didn't use it since the tubing was pretty clean.  Sound I use it all the time?Thanks
Reply:Machine is T/A 185.Flat stock is starting to look ok, although I need better control of my right hand (torch hand).  Gas is set to 12 CFM as mentioned above.Filler is stamped as ER70S-2 - JW Harris.I need help on the timing of how frequent to dip.  Well, actually can use all the helpfull comments I can get at this point, but that is one major concern.Thanks.
Reply:Thanks Rocky.  Coating?  hmm.  was supposed to be non-coated.  Hopefully some day I'll be able to spot stuff like that.  Some of you guys really amaze me.Yeah, wouldn't normally toss the work in the snow, but since it was practice and had to clean up real fast, figured it was a good excuse.  Guess I'll look for some better stuff to practice on.THanks for all the positive comments.  I'm determined to continue learning this stuff.  Who knows, someday I may actually get it down.
Reply:Cut a couple sections w/pipe cutter this will leave a perfect circle and mate them up in a butt joint configuration. By using the pipe cutter alittle 'vee' groove will be formed. You can use pieces of masking tape to hold them long enough to tack.Also clean up the inside of tube, if your bead drops thru, the crap inside especially the oil likes to bubble up through your weld.Vary your grip on the torch-I rarely hold it like I'm using a hammer-more often than not my palm faces in and up. This will allow you to rest the knife edge of your hand on your work. Holding your elbows into the sides of your body may also help you steady your hand.I still think your machine is running too hot, but I do not have all the controls yours has so I really cannot make a good guess on how to set yours.Also those 3mm green or red 'brilo' pad things make quick work of light 'steel grease' then wipe of w/paper towel. If your arc starts to' super-nova' time to grind tip, it has been contaminated.You can bend your filler rod to make it easier to lay into the puddle as well-Just dip everytime you go foward -were talking fractions of an inch-dip-dip-dip-dip until you have completed your joint. Break your passes on tube into quarters.  Weld1/4 stop re-position part, re-establish puddle next 1/4... Welcome to the Joys of Tig"after a long day of doing nothing...its gooood to kick back" Pumbaa
Reply:If your right-handed, are you supposed to weld from left to right, or right to left.  I was watching the video that came with my friends Squarewave 175, and they said move right to left, while resting the torch cup on the workpeice?  Im also new to TIG welding, I have a new Precision TIG 185 on the way.....should be here next week!  I cant wait!Jimwww.jmfabrications.comLincoln Precision TIG 375Lincoln Precision TIG 275Lincoln Power MIG 255Lincoln Power MIG 140CMiller Dynasty 350 (x2)TD Cutmaster 80
Reply:Anyone want to comment on the use of 1/16" filler rod on the .045" tubing?  I apologize for butting in, as I'm a beginner myself, but I am doing something similar, and find using 308 mig wire in .045 ideal for thin stuff.  If you lived in my neighborhood, I'd give you some .035 I bought.  I'm working on 1/16" tubing, and found the .035 a little light and hard to straighten, but the .045 is ideal and easy to work with.
Reply:I am new to TIG welding too.This thread is good. I have a Miller 180SD. I have had it for about a week. This is my second tube practice that I have done. I used 309 (mild steel exh. tube to stainless exh tube for practice). As you can see I did not use a lot of filler rod cause the fitment was so nice and square (turning and chamfering it on the lathe helps). In the back round is an all stainless tube I did with 308. The flange on the bottom steel, so I used 309. T.J.