Using Dynasty 200DX Hard

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Here are a few pics of my attempt at 5/8" frame rail, I am new to tig and newer to this machine. I am impressed with the 200 but need great amount of improvement on my skills. Any input will be appreciated.
Reply:Pictures did not show up, I will try again.
Reply:Ok folks, here is another attempt at up loading these pictures. Keep in mind I am a novice to tig, had major problems with pin holes a couple of time, mostly contamination. I need to learn to keep my filler rod off the electrode while dipping. This all started with wondering if this 200DX had the capability of welding thick sections as this. My opinion, a welder, with  experience would have no problems, I myself will need to mig this repair until I lean more about GTAW. I preheated this to about 280 F. and once the frame rail was warm, I seemed to  have little trouble getting a puddle started. In the last photo this will be evident. How ever, for a test piece, it was a failure, which much knowledge gained. I need to find some one with lots of experience with this welder.Last edited by David R; 12-11-2007 at 06:46 PM.Reason: fix pics
Reply:Added the last of the photos that showed contamination problems after I ran over the bead with just the torch. I was a little shocked with this and did grind it out, (later to learn) I never did change to the aluminum disk I had pulled out for this. Also I see everyone mentions using acetone for cleaning, where does one get this?Last edited by David R; 12-11-2007 at 06:47 PM.Reason: fix pics
Reply:Originally Posted by jjellingsonAlso I see everyone mentions using acetone for cleaning, where does one get this?
Reply:Not bad for a rookie. In the post you state 5/8 but the 1st pic shows it to be 3/4. The contamination you mention, was it in your root pass or was it all from touching the filler to the tungsten ? I didn't used to have that problem but now if I don't position myself correctly I'm all over it because of my cheater lens...frustrating ain't it. 3rd pic shows you need to learn to "crater out" and work at keeping each pass level/smooth. 4th pic looks alright albeit a little tall. 5th pic shows you're trying to go to wide, cavity looks half full and you're still going the full width. Those large nozzles don't help your visibility at all. I run whatever fits in the base of the groove (usually a #5) until I can get a #7 in there and still see what I'm doing. #7 is usually my weapon of choice, gives me good coverage, allows good visibility, and is also a good gauge of bead width. I normally only weld the width of the nozzle, tight Z pattern, keeps the heat where you want it and gives plenty of puddle control.BTW; there's no reason that I can see in your pics to end grind every pass, leave it there, it'll give you material to run your passes out onto for a quality full weld.The regular tiggers will be coming along soon so if they correct my preferences, pay no mind to me...I'm not a full time tigger like several others here.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Dano and Olddad, thanks for the info. I usually don't grind the passes, only the ones that need removed to try again. I did notice disaster looming when I changed cups to see what would happen. In time I will figure this out, it was at one time as if the larger cup added to much, I was running around 25 cfh and did not adjust when I tried the larger cup, after a couple of attempts I went lower again. Mainly visibility. I believe the long flat part (thinner section) was 1/2 inch and thought the thicker flange was 5/8, please understand, typo's, at this point are just not my main concern. I am on a mission with aluminum welding... All input will be appreciated.
Reply:Olddad, not understanding (crater out) and Z pattern, I assume this is the movement of the torch electrode? The contamination started in (c) third picture on the root pass, and had many more on the thin section while experimenting some test beads. I would regrind after smoking my tungsten and the problem corrected some ( I think I was also have some gas problem at times.) I have a bad habit of just lifting my torch away from the weld (ie stick) and not letting my pool cool and the gas to do its final job....
Reply:Ok, I can't find a book learned definition of "crater out" but it's essentially reducing the amps as you're placing that last dip and letting the puddle solidify without an indentation or "crater". As for the Z pattern, it's the same as "walking the cup" except it's manual...no edges to roll the cup on...just standard pattern welding.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Looks alot better than most first timers.. Slow down a bit and keep practicing..But you have the basics down and now its just seat time..Try to keep your dips all the same..You'll get it.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I hope you learned if it looks good LEAVE IT ALONE.  Nice work.With the amount of wire you are using, you will be a pro in no time.Torch get hot  could you cut it in two for all of us to see?DavidLast edited by David R; 12-11-2007 at 07:11 PM.Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.