Some better pics...

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These are some fillets I did tonight. They look pretty good in my opinion, but I wanna know what everyone else thinks. Either way, I think I figured out that technique for getting the nice look. A couple of these might have been a little hot, but with the hobart it's either 2 or 1. 2's almost too hot and 1 is too cold. Oh well. The other one is where I still have trouble.... on butt welds. Either I can't follow a line very well, and get off the seam, or it balls up. Plus, getting around corners for continuous welds is difficult, any ideas? Last, how do you restart a weld if you stop it without it looking like dog sh#t? Well, that's all I got.... thanks for any input! Attached Images"If at first you don't succeed... get a bigger HAMMER"HH180
Reply:More beads................................... Attached Images"If at first you don't succeed... get a bigger HAMMER"HH180
Reply:more..................................... Attached Images"If at first you don't succeed... get a bigger HAMMER"HH180
Reply:And the sh#tty ones................ Attached Images"If at first you don't succeed... get a bigger HAMMER"HH180
Reply:Those dont look too bad, remember with the feeder the heat is the wire speed adjustment, the V is arc intensity.  Get in the V range from the chart on the door and tune with the wire speed.  I like the last ones better, see how hot and melted in they are.  Wire welds should be smooth, not rippled like you have seen some stick beads. Enough heat is what makes this machine work instead of you having to work the machine.Last edited by Sberry; 06-18-2004 at 12:21 AM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:And, isn't the sound something to listen for on a wire-feeder?  I was told it should sound like bacon frying.And I seemed to get the best weld penetration and the least spatter when the machine sounded exactly like bacon frying.Work is for people who don't know how to plunder!
Reply:Is this .120 wall sq tube that your welding on? Most of the beads don t look like they're wetting out very well, which is an indication of to low of a voltage setting. If this is .120 wall tube tap #3 on a HH 175/180 is the atp that you want to use.  The circular motion that you are attempting to perfect takes quite a bit of practice, and is normally only used for short circuit transfer on material thicknesses around 1/4". For  .120 wall or thinner sq tube just travel straight or us a slight side to side motion (see attachment for example) to help push the puddle out a little. also, on this lighter materail just push the puddle. Attached ImagesLast edited by Dan; 06-18-2004 at 08:09 PM.
Reply:Toothmech the first ting I would do is relax  . This will all come in time, the key is doing it over and over again. Take a close look at the first and third pics see how the bead is smaller at start and then gets wider as ya go? Remember that when you first start out that your welded is going to be colder I would slow down just a little at the start to compensate for that. In my opinion the welds in pic 1 and 2 are a little cold see how the sides roll to the base metal instead of blending in? To finish I used to whip my mig beads but no longer do unless im going vert. up or vert. down. On the post ya made before this one there is a gun manipulation chart that is good, just remember that on vert up pause on the sides with on pause in the middle. Hope this helpsno you cant fix it with a hot pass.BORN TO LOSE, LIVE TO WIN.