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I am going to build a pipe fence with cable and a smooth top rail. I'm using 2 3/8 steel pipe. My question is how do you cut the post to form a saddle so the top rail sits nicely? I've got a torch and a saddle guide ( The kind you trace ) and have tried several times but can't get it to match up right. I've got 5 acres I'm doing and at this rate I'll be done in 3 years! Any tips or tricks? I would REALLY appreciate it!Last edited by doctorair; 11-14-2007 at 05:49 PM.
Reply:Maybe take the posts to a machine shop that will just put them in a Bridgeport with the right size cutter and in about 3 to 4 hrs (depending on how many) you'll be all set..Thats what I would do.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I think this is just what your looking for.http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=5888Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:There are several methods. Getting somebody else do do it is a good one. Several members on this forum recommend using a saw to cut two intersecting angles will form a saddle. When you get the proper angle go to town cutting. You could make a template from larger tubing and use it while torch/plasma cutting. The larging tubing slips onto your 2-3/8. If it is pipe, then the od measure around > 3 inches. I don't know of a hand notcher that will do that. Don't know if I would want to cut that much stuff by hand.How many legs do you have to cut for 5 acres of fencing?Yeah, with the winmiter, I made the template out of felt gasket material for an auto parts supplier.Last edited by tapwelder; 11-14-2007 at 06:14 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterMaybe take the posts to a machine shop that will just put them in a Bridgeport with the right size cutter and in about 3 to 4 hrs (depending on how many) you'll be all set..Thats what I would do.....zap!
Reply:I have built lots of cattle pens and the way I do it is as follows. Assuming all of your posts are already set, string a mason line along the line of posts where the bottom of the top rail will sit. This will allow you to adjust the height to follow the lay of the land. Mark the post all the way around with a soap stone. Then use your saddle template to mark the saddle. The bottom of the saddle template should touch the line. Be sure to line up the saddles so the top rail will lay in a straight line, and use the torch to cut saddles. After cutting lots of these you will get good enough to eyeball it and not even need the template. I always keep a short piece of top rail handy to lay into the saddle to test the fit while cutting. Hope this helps.MM 251TD Cutmaster 81Victor JourneymanLincoln SA 200Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:The chopsaw method would probably work fine for ya,but however you do it for gosh sake wear your safety glasses Victor SuperRanger O/A Solar migLincoln Powermig 140Southbend 9in lathe350# kohlswa anvilMiller Maxstar 150 stl etc....
Reply:Hi Doc - A piture is worth 1000 words - if you can.I have done a few fences and never had this problem - except when i started and had just really poor cutting skills.In any case, we sink the posts in create and ensure the are plumb - and obviously taller than needed - usually by around 6 inches if all goes well.The next day just go out with your laser level or measuring stick and decide how high you want the fence and mark them.Take your template and mark it then cut. (don't fill the whole tube up with crete - it can get pretty expolsive.If I recall - I used to angle the torch to take off some of the inner thickness - so depending on the thickness of your pipe you may need to experiment a bit with your markings. I recommend taking your practice piece and torch and getting it right. Then put your template on it again and see what adjutements you had to make - then cut them all that same way. i have noticed where I can cut inside the line on the bottoms and cut the lines at the tops, etc...Also, keep in mind that this is a fence - not a roll cage - so you are allowed some wider tolerances - but gauranteed - after two full sessions at - you'll be getting pretty good.But post some pics of your first couple tries - maybe some others can also chime in and identify a problem right off.
Reply:Oh yeah - what size pipe and is the top the same as the posts?
Reply:I am going to build a pipe fence with cable and a smooth top rail. I'm using 2 3/8 steel pipe.
Reply:I use the Williams' Low-Buck notcher. Works incredibly well. Much faster and safer than hole saws, and no electricity required. Can be done in the field with the thing mounted in your receiver hitch.And I like the automatic bevel I have for my welds, unlike the hole saws with fit too closely.I think this is the website: www.lowbucktools.com
Reply:I have the lowbkuck notcher. It does work well. However, you might need a lot of help for that many posts. It will definately stretch your arms.I am also not sure if it will do 2-3/8 inch pipe. If you go that route find out if that 2.5 inch they list is actually a pipe measure or tubing.I have the largest setup, however I think 2.25 inch pipe is the largest it will do.
Reply:Thanks for the help and suggestions. The top rail is the same size as the post 2 3/8". I figured there had to be an easier way to do this, There are a LOT of these types of fences here. Sounds like I need to hone my torch skills! Thanks alot guys, I'll post some pics when I get started.
Reply:You mean like this? I put the post in, pull a string, mark the line and just cut with the torch. I did 2200 ft. after a few it will come easy. Sometime you just have to touch up with a grinder to knock a high spot off.Rick Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by kcirYou mean like this? I put the post in, pull a string, mark the line and just cut with the torch. I did 2200 ft. after a few it will come easy. Sometime you just have to touch up with a grinder to knock a high spot off.Rick
Reply:Originally Posted by doctorairI am going to build a pipe fence with cable and a smooth top rail. I'm using 2 3/8 steel pipe. My question is how do you cut the post to form a saddle so the top rail sits nicely? I've got a torch and a saddle guide ( The kind you trace ) and have tried several times but can't get it to match up right. I've got 5 acres I'm doing and at this rate I'll be done in 3 years! Any tips or tricks? I would REALLY appreciate it!
Reply:KCIR,That is a nice looking fence. I am curious, what size cable do you use and how do you attach it to the pipe ? Are these fences mainly for cattle or horses ? I don't think I have seen any built like this where I live. Mostly barbed wire, or hog wire. Of course there are some older wood plank fences, but they are more of less " Gone with the Wind". Building a fence like you built looks like it would be very expensive, what do you think it would cost in materials per foot - if you don't mind me asking. I certainly looks like it would be low maintenance and be there for a long time. Where I live we have an old saying about something that will be there for a long time. We say it will still be there when the cows come home, and that is how that fence looks.
Reply:Originally Posted by kcirYou mean like this? I put the post in, pull a string, mark the line and just cut with the torch. I did 2200 ft. after a few it will come easy. Sometime you just have to touch up with a grinder to knock a high spot off.Rick
Reply:I used the same process as Kcir, and a saddle tool (links below) as a cutting guide.http://www.libertypipe.com/?p=produc...1&productid=31http://www.pipemastertools.com
Reply:http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...6063_200306063
Reply:maybe rent a plasma setup and generator im sure it would speed things up a bit 350P 30A spool gun cut master 51 syncro 250 other stuff " take a dog off the street and make him prosper and he will not bite you sad the same cannot be said for man" i didnt use punctuation just to piss you off
Reply:6010,The materials for this fence ran about $9.00 a foot. You see different things for the field part of this kind of fence. Mostly 3/4" or 5/8" sucker rod, but you also see field fence on them.Usually these fences on the road side of a place and around the house to separate yard from a large acreage.Thanks for the compliments.Rick
Reply:[The materials for this fence ran about $9.00 a foot.] Is that DOM tubing?Victor SuperRanger O/A Solar migLincoln Powermig 140Southbend 9in lathe350# kohlswa anvilMiller Maxstar 150 stl etc....
Reply:I know it has been almost two months since you posted this, but in case you are still working on that fence...try these www.shur-kut.com |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:23:45