Oxy/Acetylene Alum Weld Pics from a Rookie

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Please be nice =) with the comments. Constructive criticisms only please! It was 10 years ago since i picked up a torch. I have done some soldering on PCB's since then.Setup:Mecho Midget torch with a No. 2 tip (#65, 0.035")I was constantly adjusting the pressure as I was working so I was not able to remember the setting that gave me these results. I also tried the No. 1 tip (#70, 0.028") I found it did not have enough heat.I don't know the alloy. It was a scrap piece. Filler is 1100. Flux is what is supplied in this kit. http://tinmantech.com/html/aluminum_...ng_system.htmlPractice running bead, filler on the left, none on the right NO fluxTop side, Tall beadTop side, Flat beadInside of tubingOne moment, I am signing up for a different file sharing service.Last edited by Laserjock; 10-15-2005 at 11:01 PM.
Reply:anyone wanna help me host some pics
Reply:Try www.photobucket.com it's free and reliableStangnetShop Full Of Stuff. Joey
Reply:If this is your first try with gas after 10 years, i'd say you are doing ok.  There appears to be some surface contaminations (oxides) that may have messed up the flow in places or it might have been the flame (too much of one gas or another), but it looks like you got fusion in others.  I only did gas welding of aluminum in class and then never did it again after learning tig.  I remember a lot of welds I made that looked a lot like these.  It's hard and probably more difficult than most who have tried it might care to remember.  You touch on one of the bigger problems with gas welding in general, the lack of accuracy in adjustments.  It's all pretty much by feel and look with gas.  With practice, you can make pretty welds with gas, but not as accurately as with electricity...but, depending on what your goals are, that might not be an issue for you.  Seems I remember that gas took a lot longer to get a puddle, so I wouldn't try to rush things or expect to move along as quickly as with tig (ha! "as quickly as with tig", never thought I'd say something like that...).  Next time, get some flat stock and REEEEEEALy clean it right before you start and try to get the flame adjusted prior to starting the weld.  I bet you will get better results.  Keep at it and show us the results.  Just as a note, if you really master gas welding aluminum, tig will be a lot easier for you.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:The repeatability of settings with gas is an issue. This is where the smith gassaver is supposed to help. Set it once and let it shutoff the gas supply without screwing with your settings.  Normally you are welding the same material all the time once out  of the "weld it if its alum and you can sneak it past the wife" stageI find setting an note the length of the pure acetylene flames length. I set that length and then add the oxygen. I help you to be productive with al gas welding. Some people adjust on scrap until the al puddles in x amount of time.Once you get the Al weldingdown pat, it will look very similar to tig, just wider and flatter ( a good thing if you aren't trying to simulate a tig bead  ).  Also do some flats as mentioned.
Reply:BTW, lookd like you are putting too much head into it. Move faster, change the angle of the torch or lower the size of flame
Reply:For those not seeing the pics, we-todd-did-racing is down sometimes. PM me your email address and I will send them to you. I cleaned the surface by the SS brush and then followed up with acetone? I don't think it leaves a residue. I will try to do a better job cleaning the surface. I had some flat scraps but they were too thick 1/8" or 0.125" Took so long to liquify. I now have some 1/16" or 0.060" to practice on. And they are flats  :thumbup: I remember something about the importance of the angle of the torch tip and the filler. Somebody wanna remind me? I think that's what you arereferring to cluna?Stay tuned for pics. Of the progress hopefully....Steel welding is much easier 'cause I can see the puddle and know when it's time to move or add filler.
Reply:Yeah,  you dont want to stick the filler into the reflected heat from the torch.  It will melt the filler before it makes contact with the surface of the workpiece.  You want to get under the heat, so to speak.  You mainly dont want the torch flame and filler to be at opposite angles like a V.  You want to add filler at about a 20-30 degree angle from the workpiece (just a guess, I cant remember the actual recommended angle) while holding the torch slightly off of a 90 degree angle (maybe like 75 degrees or so).  That way the base metal melts the filler and they flow together better.  When I tig, I hold the torch almost perpendicular to the workpiece (with a slight lead).  I hold the filler like a pencil (much lower angle).  I weld toward the filler (torch in right, filler in left, working from right to left).  I know some that weld away from the filler...just preference, I guess.  The other way around, I have to keep looking around my hand to see where i am heading.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.