Spring Lock Vs Clamp SMAW Stinger

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I know it's not so much as a welding question so much as it is general curiousity.Do you prefer a Spring lock, or a Clamp style SMAW stinger?  I've used both in the past, and they have their advantages and disadvantages.With a spring lock, you have to bend the rod in a lot of circumstances to get the angle you want, yet they're lighweight.With a clamp style, you can position the rod without the need it without bending it and loosing two or three inches near the stinger that break off when you bend it, but you have to make up for it in the weight of the stinger.It doesn't really matter, it's just my random thought for the day!At work we stick weld the vessels with spring locks, but what I know about in the field it's mostly clamp style stingers.Personally, it makes a lick of difference to me, I just want to know what ya'll use!  I broke in the Ranger 305G burning 1/4" rod (ala, the machine was cranked!) in a spring lock for a half hour, but for sh*ts and giggles, I picked up a clamp style for 10 bucks or so.Last edited by mb_welder; 05-30-2008 at 08:54 AM.
Reply:im not sure what your talking about, and which one is which.For doing shop work i prefer the pistol grip type stingers, they are heavier but feel better in the handThe other ones i like for doing field work because they take tons of abuse and are lighter, which is nice for running out of position all day long.
Reply:I have both.  The biggest reason for the clamp style (bernard short stub) is I use 7018 and if you need a restart on the same rod, I bang it on concrete or what ever is handy to get the slag off the end.  With a clamp style, the rod gets driven into the holder.I like both, I have clamp style on a #2 whip for light work using 6013.  for the bigger stuff, I prefer the bernard.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I use 5 old 350 amp Duro's that are spring closing. But there is no springs, the jaws are the springs. The oldest is over 25 yrs. old and you still cant pull a rod out without pressing the handle. They are also very light weight and also have a little heat shield on them that really works. I hate to use anything else.
Reply:More often than not I use a short stub holder. My fingers don't work like the used to and the short stub just feel better in my hand. Like David R brought up when using 7018 with a short stub holder just give the rod a few hard taps to restrike.
Reply:I have both. I use the Bernard almost all the time now. Like others my hands are not the best, and for some reason the stub clamp seems to feel more solid for me.-Ryan
Reply:I've used the spring type and while they're ok, they're not in the same league as the Bernard type. I've used several Bernard or copies of over the years but currently have an Esab that is a screw clamp like the Bernard. But, unlike  the Bernard it has two electrode holding positions, 45 degree and 90 both in the main body of the holder. i.e. it doesn't have the angled part at the top, making it a little more compact. I like it a lot.Here's a link with a photo of their range of holders: http://products.esab.com/Templates/T041.asp?id=92956
Reply:Tractapac - Those Esab units are interesting - Thanks.I have both the Bernard Short Stub, and the Tweco Tong style electrode holders.  I prefer the tong style because of the various positions readily available.  I acknowledge the other's point about tapping the electrode through the holder on a re-strike, but it is not an issue for me, as I chip off the flux with the thumb and index finger on my free hand.  Also I like being able to discard the spent electrode one-handed, while I am grabbing another one with my other hand. The actual weight of the units is not an issue with me, so I will not comment.The disadvantage to the tong type holder: 1) Much weaker clamping action on the electrode than the short stub model.2) Very common to tap exposed portion of electrode past the contact area while knocking the flux off to re-strike a partially used electrode. The disadvantages to the short stub holder: 1) Having to bend rod and destroy flux to be able to change rod inclination over preset angle.2) Two handed operation to insert & remove electrode.3) Lever & spring mechanism inside head start to operate roughly over time - doesn't readily release electrode.  Sometimes have to tap to get mechanism to let go. -May be due to beginners sticking electrodes and twisting head to break connection at the holder?4) Because of the great gripping action, I find that beginners use it as a crutch for not maintaining proper arc length.  If they "stick" it is common to place both hands on the holder, and rip the electrode loose from the work piece.  This is not possible with the tong type, so I feel the short stub tends to develop a bad habit.Just my $.02..... 'cause you asked. Later,Jason