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How much do these really matter?Right now im still just getting the basics of it down, trying to get good, solid beads.. what are the benefits of different rods for root passes and such..Also, how long does it take you guys to learn all of that... i started welding seriously (4+ times a week) maybe... oh.. ~5 months ago and im still struggling with it...
Reply:Dirt,What type of welder do you have now? Just so I can help better.6010 DC+,6011 for AC or DC+, Lincoln 5P, 5P+ are deep pentrating fast freeze rods for root beads, dirty metal and a good general purposerod.7018 is a softer arc all position good strong rod, it can beused for root beads but takes a lot of practice. If the metal is clean and you need a good looking weld this is the rod.If you can take a course in basic welding at a school it wouldbe very helpful, they set up different test so you will knowhow to gap for the root bead and watch your progress.Keep us informed as to how your doing.Oh yeah, practice, practice, practice. But don't just run beadson a plate, try different joints. Make up some coupons for buttjoints, lap joints, corner joints and such.David
Reply:I think stronics hit the nail on the head, ill just add that 6010 = 5P and 5P+, differnce in them two though are that the true 6010 is an aws term. 5P and 5P+ are trade names given by the lincoln electric company. The 5P is a red rod. The 5P+ is a gray rod. The 5P+ is more like a 6011 in most arc characteristics. Easier slag removal than red, not as likely to stick as red. However, red wont die because red is a tad bit cheaper but because on pipeline welding where 5P really shines, the cap on a 5P can crack. Therefore root and fill can be 5P+ but cap needs to be 5P red. Other than that yeah you will learn all the names, all the sillyness. You just got to eat it breathe it and love it. Keep your head out of the fumes though cause thats prolly why you cant reemmeber all this. Stick needs lots of practice. After practicing a lil more of the memorization of rods helps. Basically I usually keep on hand a supply of 6010 red 1/8 and 3/32, 1/8" and 5/32" 7018. As for using 7018 for root beads, only if youve got a backing strip or its a tight fit up. Open root cant be run 7018, or atleast not according to any code or standard im aware of. other than the code requirements do to lack of shielding from backside, 7018 thick slag shielding, there would be no problem running roots with 7018, just you arent getting shileding with an open root. The 6010 and 6011 are the same rod except that the 11 is slightly easier to use, doesnt stick as bad, slag easier to remove and can run on ac. There are plenty other rods, but I dont need em. They all have purposes, some though are overlapping like 6010/11 7018/16 youll get hte hang of it though. If you got more equesitons feel free to message meCHRIS
Reply:Hey Chris, out this way we do use the 7018 sometimes for the root, I know of some AS/NZS codes that use it and some BS codes as well, the best rod I've found for a low hydrogen root is the Kobe 55U. It does a great job, I more or less stove it vert. up with that rod and it's hard to beat. That procedure is very popular in Australia.Stephen
Reply:wow well thank you stephan I was not aware of that. Never heard of it. IM only acustomed to the american codes but that is a new one and I appreicate it. And alas I could even be wrong on the US codes, only referring to the ones im familiar with . Anyways, thanksCHRIS |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:18:40