Cottage cheese

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Thats the only way I can describe my first attempt. Im using a Harbor Freigth 90 amp wire feed. I was using it on max, which gave me some burn through, then a bunch of cottage cheese showed up. Tomorrow Im going to grind it down and try again. Any suggestions? Im think wire coming out to fast??? Thanks for any help. Thats alight coat of primer making it all black like that. Attached Images
Reply:Good lord man a 90amp piece o' sheite machine for working on something like that.Even if it was working properly that is the WRONG machine for the jobEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:get rid of that chinese crapRanger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:Originally Posted by bp626indamixget rid of that chinese crap
Reply:i've heard of making something look better with paint.....but....but....but....daaaaammmnnnn.225NT bobcatAEAD200LEScott 125mm175, mm252 w 30A, PT225mm211, TA 181iHyper Therm 380, cut master 529100X & XX, Digital Elite6 Victor setssmith little torch, meco midget kalamazoo band sawsteel max saw evoulution circular saw
Reply:/facepalmBuy American, or don't whine when you end up on the bread line.
Reply:Run small stringers instead of trying to make a 3/8" wide bead. It's the only thing you can do with that little machine.Two turn tables and a microphone.
Reply:Do you have any scrap of the same size material you can practice on to dial in your machine? It may be underpowered but grinding a small bevel and progressively filling the metal may work, as Pangea suggested.
Reply:Originally Posted by BlueweldersYou can suggest a brand of 90 amp welder that would have worked ?
Reply:Hey guys,Yup....definitely "cottage cheese" or possible "bird-droppings" & an indication of a lack of experience. All contribute to a FAILURE. That is not acceptable.I'm gonna have to disagree with a few of the responses. First, the HF welders aren't as bad as most seem to think. I have several that I use that work excellent with no issues & are used for particular production applications. The baseless contention that ALL imports, whether Chinese, or otherwise, don't work well, is simply ridiculous. Those who are biased, are entitled to feel that way, although, generally have not used or tried to use an import. Not gonna change that. It certainly would be productive to not respond with useless data if a simple analysis of the equipment, material used, parameters illustrated, & user experience were taken into account. Pangea has provided the initial steps to get a positive result. The pic of the material appear to be <1/8"(.125), & that would indicate that a 90A welder is quite capable of producing a good welded joint using a good flux-core wire(.030/NR211 or E71T) & slight beveling of the joint seams. The optimim results would occur if the OP would have taken the time & steps, with some scrap material of the same thicknesses to PRACTICE on, with changing various heat/wf settings, & clean material, to get in the ballpark. A practice setup with the same thickness material, is the primary objective to determine if the welder is capable of the weldment.Hey Foxone: grind all the joint back to clean, bare metal again. Get some scrap of the same thickness, clean it, do a slight bevel, & start at heat Max1, & wf @ #5, use the PULL technique, wire brush between starts/stops, to determine if you're getting a decent, penetrating bead. Then just increase in small increments till you find the "sweet" spot. It will be revealed. Just do your homework....DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:first off what are you working on? how thick is the material you are welding? if it is 10ga or thinner the 90A should be fine AS long as it is running right! the welder was NOT running right in the pics. it is very obvious that it would not hold a steady arc. wire speed too high? metal dirty? bad ground? cheap chinese welder that might never work? btw always run the smaller welders at the highest power setting unles you are welding material less than 18 ga. the key to using one of these low power welders is extracting the most heat as possible so be sure to use .023 wire and move slow. puddle size will be dictated by speed not side to side movement once you have a good pudle you can move side to side aboiut 1/4 of an intch to further influence but like i said move slow!
Reply:Looks like a car door hinge. Common failure.These type of spot welded constructions often fail after many years of use and abuse.It is layers of spot welded sheet metal attached to a thick steel hinge.To fix it may require a new piece of metal if there is corrosion.It is a complex repair. It is not for a beginner. Hard to tell if it is the door or the body of the car holding the hinge.Sometimes the thin metal of the door is sandwiched between the thick hinge and a backing plate behind the sheet metal that you cannot see.Sometimes the best solution for this problem is not welding but just to get another door from a junk yard. I am not saying it cannot be fixed but that thin sheet metal requires careful reconstruction.On this particular problem it looks like some sheet metal  added around to spread out the load would help if it will fit in that space.It would require very good welding skills. To get a small hand grinder it there now may be difficult or dangerous, so a die grinder would be need to clean that all up.Last edited by Donald Branscom; 03-07-2011 at 09:53 AM.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:One more thing...You can see the deformation in the side of this sheet metal box supporting the hinge.That deformation may cause the door to not line up correctly even if you welded the crack perfectly.The box will have to be fixed or that panel replaced.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomOne more thing...You can see the deformation in the side of this sheet metal box supporting the hinge.That deformation may cause the door to not line up correctly even if you welded the crack perfectly.The box will have to be fixed or that panel replaced.
Reply:Bad news is that awful looking bubblegum weld is not very strong.  Good news is it doesn't need to be as it appears to be the bottom hinge.  The most load on a car door hinge is when the door is open and all the load is on the top hinge which is in tension, the bottom hinge here is in compression so as long as it doesn't fall off completely it will probably serve.  When the door is closed the door is supported at both ends and again there is no great load on that bottom hinge.You need to to go get a hood or trunklid (cheap, less in demand panel and easy to remove) at a junkyard and use that to practice welding and setting up your machine on before you go wide open on your vehicle.  Maybe get someone experienced in using a mig on car sheetmetal to try it and show you what you are looking for.If all else fails get yourself a quality mig (miller, lincoln, esab, hobart, century, thermo dynamics etc.) then at least you will know the problem is not with the machine."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25