remote control for a AC225

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is it possable to make a remote control for a lincolin AC225 buzz boxI am building a bridge rectifier so it will be ac/dc, I also have a hefreq box and tig torch for it but I am wondering if there is any way to control the amperage remotelyMatt in AKMatt the Alaskan red neck
Reply:I guess the place to start would be to find out what kind of control is currently in the machine.  I use to have one of these, but for the life of me I dont know exactly how the amps are controlled...that is besides the obvious heavy clunking between 5 amp ticks.  Is the control a multi-tap thingie or is it a really course rheo/pot type thingie?I am assuming you are doing this out of principle, right...not because it's the best route to ac tig?  There is a site that sells conversion kits for buzz boxes that turns them into tig machines...they would probably be a good source of info about this question.http://tigdepot.com/products/p35TD-BBTF.htmPAToyota posted this on another thread...maybe it will be helpful here also.Last edited by smithboy; 01-02-2006 at 08:44 AM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I have looked at their stuff, nothing for this application also their tig conversions are for DC only and they dont offer hifreq only scratch startand yes this is just to see if I can not because I think it will give me the best machine, actually I am trying to see how cheep I can setup an AC/DC tig system, so far it looks like I will have about $250 not counting the welder which I bought used for $100 for about 18 years agoLast edited by mattc; 01-02-2006 at 08:58 AM.Matt the Alaskan red neck
Reply:I just looked up the manual on lincolns web site and it looks like it is done with tapshttp://content.lincolnelectric.com//.../parts/P65.pdfMatt the Alaskan red neck
Reply:Maybe not (hopefully not for your project).  I looked at what you link to, and it might be that the main control is just a multi-switch with different resistance at each position (hopefully).  It's not obvious one way or the other from the drawing.  If it is tapped, I think you are out of luck, but if it's a multi-switch resistor-whatever, I think you can wire in an infinately adjustable one like I have in my miller dialarc/RHC-3 from miller.  If that is possible, you can do it...maybe cheap.  My RHC-3 was $12+shipping off ebay.  I don't know how much the main control would be for my dialarc.  They are similar, but I think handle different current and have different resistance ratings.http://www.weldingweb.com/attachment...2&d=1130025664Here is a picturehttp://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread...ght=foot+pedalfrom this thread where I was getting info on adapting a foot pedal for my dialarc.I am far from an expert in this area (enthusiastic tinkerer is probably a good way to describe my activities in electricity), but maybe this stuff will help you get it going.  If not...there is always to possibility of getting another welder with this type control to make modification easier.  They are very cheap used.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I will pull the cover off the machine today and see what it has thanks for all the helpMatt the Alaskan red neck
Reply:were talkin old tombstone right...careful pulling that thing apart,  putting it back together can be a trick if youre not careful.   also  no remote control.   for tig,  get a torch with gas valve.   then scratch start it...only way to do on theseIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:I have a torch with a gas valve and flex head, I also have a high frequency box it is an old one made by heliarc I believeMatt the Alaskan red neck
Reply:Ive used the tig torch with valve on the bobus.  It works O.K.  Does the job.  Its better if youve never been spoiled on remote control.   the alum is pretty much almost no good though infortunately.  Without amp control at the end of your weld you cant ease up on the heat which is whats necessary to elimate the crater cracks.   Im sure there are some who would argue this point, but unless youre an experience tig welder, in that case this isnt a set up youd be using, you will be really hard pressed to be able to do this.  However, if you add extra filler at the very end.  Ive never had a mind to just leaving the rod in th puddle when I pulled out even .   Break it off, clean it up to look nice.  It helps to cool the puddle slower and eliminate the crater cracking.  Still its much less than ideal.  Mild steel however, can be done quite well.  It does actualy a good job, just no remote control kinda stinks but its more then doable.  Much more than doable.  Good luckIF it Catches...Let it Burn
Reply:For aluminum, you can also weld from both sides inward to the middle of the work.  Finishing in the middle helps, if you have no amp control.  It allows the heat to spread more and reduces the cratering problem a bit.  Welds don't look as good, but...If you put a kill switch on the HF, you can stop the arc and use the gas flow to help cool and shield during solidification.  A cheap foot switch works fine for this.  Also, since you have to pick up and restart, it allows you at least a few seconds to let the metal cool...or at least to achieve a more uniform heat.  In aluminum the heat tends to pile up in spots where it can't spread, like at the edge of the work piece.  This is where good aluminum welds go really bad.  Heat sinks are good devices to use can also and reduce the heat problem in these areas.Like chris says, this is not the optimal setup for aluminum...not even close...and good welds will be difficult.  These things I suggest above are really what you might call "work arounds" for someone intent on making it work.  They don't eliminate problems...they just mitigate them or move the problem to a less critical location.I think you already know that you are doing this the hard way...but, there are lots of things to be learned here and I think you will probably finish this project with a really good understanding of the issues involved.  I know for a fact that if you ever decide to pop for a state-of-the art ac/dc tig machine, you will not take a single feature for granted.  I currently use an old fogey machine for ac tig and have had an opportunity to weld with some newer equipment...but, not even close to the newest..., and what a difference things like squarewave or a gas solenoid makes.Last edited by smithboy; 01-04-2006 at 10:46 AM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:I am putting this project on hold for a couple of days because a frind of mine has a Lincoln square wave that he will sell, he just has to figure out what he wants for it, I will probably finish this project later but for now I will need the money for the other machineMatt the Alaskan red neck
Reply:In case I would like to add some diodes to my buzz box, has anyone made its on DC conversion for an AC buzz box?? I would like to see that! (just for stick)
Reply:here are some pics that were sent to methe one in the pic has 2 posative diodes and 2 negative, it can be wired using 4 diodes of the same polarity here is the basic diagram for it accept the DC output polarities are switchedalso it would need a capacitor to even out the DC output, I will try to find something on the wireing for it alsoMatt the Alaskan red neck