Would pipe be ok?

admin

I have searched around for some 1" tubing in my area and no one has any on hand. I am modifying a motorcycle frame and was wondering if 3/4" sch 40 would work in its place?Here is a picture of what I am planning on doing:The grey lines represent the pipe sections.
Reply:Someone correct me if im wrong but i think it will be just fine, your not spanning that far so i think it will work well. Plus your bracing it at the bottom, looks like thats where the seat pan sits. Im assuming your not obeast so i think you will be alright with 3/4 sch40 pipe.
Reply:You could use wood if correctly designed. What I mean is that pipe isn´t as good material as tube becouse of the steel and the procedure for making it but it can be enough if you know how to use it. What are you trying to do? putting extra bracing? or making a rear A arm? or what are the intentions? cause the drawing doesn´t say much...My Babies: HF Drill pressHF Pipe Bender3   4.5" Black and Decker angle grindersLincoln Electric PROMIG 175that´s it!
Reply:Originally Posted by elvergonYou could use wood if correctly designed. What I mean is that pipe isn´t as good material as tube becouse of the steel and the procedure for making it but it can be enough if you know how to use it. What are you trying to do? putting extra bracing? or making a rear A arm? or what are the intentions? cause the drawing doesn´t say much...
Reply:you will have to strengthin the back bone as it looks like you gonna make it a rigid.
Reply:Can't download the pic because of ISP problems.First thing that comes to mind is whether you're trying to weld dissimilar metals.  The tubing the bike is made of  might be different from the Schedule 40.I've always been told, and practice it, is to use 7018 or it's equivalent when welding dissimilar metals.I mostly work with A36, and sometimes have to weld a bolt (case hardened alloy) to it.  I use 7018.  There must be something equivalent in wire.  The guy to ask is Donald Branscom.  He'll probably see this thread, and post.BUT, You are working with, in all likeliehood 2 different types of metals."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Finally got the download.  Don't think Schedule 40 will do for the rear fork you're thinking about."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I have used schedule 40 pipe for many things but I would not recommend it for this project at all. Tubing is designed for these types of application where pipe is not. Since you are planning on turning a rear suspension frame into a ridgid, Tubing is the only safe choice and I think you may need to do some other reinforcements in order to make it safe.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:id stay away from pipe and just get some ERW
Reply:Here is a good site for building a jig if you are going to do this project yourself. Lots of great info on the home page link at the bottom. http://64.172.168.34/neatstuff/framejig2.htmYou will need a jig to mod your exsisting frame.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:here is another good link.http://www.bikerradiomagazine.com/fo...787663ce560c4aAlso is that a Yamaha???
Reply:why wouldnt the sch40 work for the rear arm? Not doubting anyone i just want to know why it wont work.
Reply:Originally Posted by ClayKann101why wouldnt the sch40 work for the rear arm? Not doubting anyone i just want to know why it wont work.
Reply:Originally Posted by ClayKann101why wouldnt the sch40 work for the rear arm? Not doubting anyone i just want to know why it wont work.
Reply:It is a Yamaha Maxim that I am converting to a rigid and making a metric chop out of it. The beauty in this is that the rear is already aligned with the existing swing arm and I am just welding in the rigid portions at my desired ride height (so I dont think a jig is needed).
Reply:Online suppliers such as mcmaster-carr can hok you up with most anything you want.Don't talk about it, Just do it!
Reply:Here's another source is http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/...130tubing.html I have gotten tube from them oftenWalt
Reply:Originally Posted by partagasI am not 100 % sure, but if I remember 1 reason is pipe is not meant to take that kind of force.  Most Sch40 is meant for pressure on the inside not force on the outside.  I know it sounds odd.  I am sure I worded it wrong.
Reply:Originally Posted by badtexasz28It is a Yamaha Maxim that I am converting to a rigid and making a metric chop out of it. The beauty in this is that the rear is already aligned with the existing swing arm and I am just welding in the rigid portions at my desired ride height (so I dont think a jig is needed).
Reply:Originally Posted by OldtimerI'm kind of curious what the reasons are myself. Anyone care to elaborate?
Reply:Before I would use Sch40, Id go with Sch80 OD is the same ID is different (smaller) on say 1/2" for instance.Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Thanks for your comments, Rojo. I'll tell you this about my part of the oil and gas industry I worked in though and I don't intend it as an argument, just a clarification. When pipe was no longer good for it's intended use it was then classified as structural. I have never seen pipe sold as structural pipe. Pipe intended for downhole use is casing and tubing. When tubing is no longer reliable for downhole use it is downgraded to structrual use. Same way for linepipe, both T&C and PE, either seamed or grade B- seamless. There is a lot of seamed pipe now that is rated for the same uses as gr. B seamless and a a lot lower cost. This is what the major oil company I worked for did and what the other companies I worked for as a contractor did. I've been completely retired for a couple of years so I don't have a clue what is happening now. I remember that tubing for structural use had become very scarce and very expensive even before i hung up ny hood and gloves.
Reply:Usually when building a rigid what is used is not ERW tubing but DOM tubing. It is stronger that ERW or pipe but it costs quite a bit more. I just priced out some for bike and it was about the same as buying the hardtail section already made. Then you just have to weld it on. But it is always funner doing it yourself plus you can build it to your specs.BTS Welding
Reply:I would use tubing, if you can't find it locally, this place has what you need. Have it cut to 8 foot sections, and it can be shipped ups....http://www.onlinemetals.com/I am doing the same thing to an old Honda cb500
Reply:A buddy of mine builds nothing but rigids, sheet metal sitting on the back bone for a seat pan, and he uses ERW.I think people have a misconception that ERW is inherently weak.  For the stresses the bike will be taking ERW will work fine.  If you want to use DOM, go for it, but i dont think its neccesary.