TIG Lesson Plan

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Hello:I have been lurking around this site for awhile, and there is a vast amount of knowledge to be had, which is great. I have searched around and have found different opinions (go figure) to my question:When beginning to learn TIG welding (starting out with steel) which joints and material thickness would you recommend to get the process going. It seems that "smooth filler action" and "torch movement" is paramount. Also, one more question: (besides "whatever works") As a general rule, if a person is right-handed do they most likely hold the torch in the right hand and filler in left, and vice versa?Finally, if anyone is located in the Southern California area and is willing to take pity on the ignorant and make a few bucks in the process of showing proper TIG process, please send a PMThanks
Reply:If you're learning TIG, you have to learn torch control first.  Start with a piece of 16th steel.  Hold your torch with a 90 degree work angle and a 20 degree push angle, and form a puddle one tungsten diameter wide.  Using no  filler metal, weld the length of the plate (about 6 inches is good) maintaining the weld puddle width at 1 tungsten diameter.  When you can consistently weld that puddle and hold that width, we'll move on to the next step.  We'll get to add FILLER METAL!!!!!  I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Here is a very useful and instructive site.http://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com/http://www.weldinginspectionsvcs.com...mAnimation.htmthe second link gives a nice depiction on how to make a narrow tig weld, one with a small HAZ.  This is pretty much what I do on flat welds, just with a less exagerated torch movement... Right hand torch, left hand filler, moving right to left.  I am right handed.  You can't always control how the weld is to be made, but when I can, this works pretty good for me.I use a size 17 aircooled torch with a 3/32 tungsten for most stuff 150 amps down to 30 amps.  if you are going to do thinner sheet metal, you can still use a 17, but you will want a smaller tungsten and torch parts (collet, collet body, etc).  Stuff that runs over 150 amps will require a heavier duty or water cooled torch.1/8th (or thinner) inch low carbon steel is probably a good place to start learning.  I really don't recall what I started learning tig welding on.edit:  I agree with the above on filler.  Start on solid steel working the puddle around...no filler.  Then work on adding filler once you get a consistent puddle and are able to move it.Last edited by smithboy; 08-03-2006 at 07:49 PM.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Thank you very much for the quick replies. I will definately take any advice on where to start. I purchased a Miller Syncrowave 250 and after reading various threads purchased a gas lens, ceramic cups, 1/16, 3/32 2% tungsten and various filler rods (although I won't use them just yet ) Thanks again for humoring me with such basic questions, but my schedule right now will not allow a class at a community college and any "private" lessons I can find are all out of state. So I'm off to buy some 16g and get started, any additional advice is greatly appreciated.
Reply:When you do find the time or the opportunity, a welding class with an instructor is invaluable.  Forum discussions like these are valuable in getting across ideas, but having someone experienced working with you will cause your progress to increase more rapidly.  And don't worry about asking basic questions, the only dumb question is the one you're too afraid to ask.  We'll just keep a tab going, you owe us a beer per question.   Fair?I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:"We'll just keep a tab going, you owe us a beer per question.  Fair?"Prepare yourselves to be very, very drunk!I understand and agree completely that there is no substitute for "in person" instruction, but I do appreciate the advice that has been given. I will start off with the 16g "attempting" beads without filler. Do these settings sound like a good place to start?(16g steel)1/16th 2% Tungsten50-80 AmpsDCEN15-20psi Gas Flow~5 second Post FlowThanks again!
Reply:Sounds like a good place to start, the 15 to 20 on the gas should be scfm, not psi, and your postflow might be a little higher.  Not too much or you rwasting gas.  You need to ensure the tungsten cools below it's oxidation point, that's all.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Had an opportunity to "attempt" TIG welding using (as recommended) 16g steel and no filler. Since these are my first welds I wanted to get some feedback on which direction to go. Any help is greatly appreciated. The pictures are in no particular order, was trying to keep diameter equal. I did this exercise about 20 times and all are basically appearing the same.Also, I noticed on another thread that Mr. Zap suggested to have extra tungsten sharpened and available. I won't bore anyone with the details, but all I can say is: That is some great advice right there, I'll tell you what.  LOL Attached ImagesLast edited by LurninIt; 08-04-2006 at 11:07 PM.
Reply:very nice my friend... so when is the filler part going into play?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:another thing try to space the puddles out a little more...btw.. whats the back look like?...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I will definately work on spacing the puddle more. I am thinking of attempting to add filler now to the bead  Any advice on the best way to move up to this step. I noticed that some recommend backing before adding and so forth. You all have been 100% helpful so any recommendations are very much appreciated. Also, this pic shows the backs of the above weld attempts. Attached Images
Reply:the first 2 show me some burn thru...sometimes good sometimes bad..but pic # 3 will pass inspection...for now... feed the filler from the SIDE of your puddle and let it work itself around to the other side by itself...you'll see it really does work..carry on.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:OK, in regards to adding filler...When starting the bead, should I add filler balled up on the surface then add heat until it "melts" into the parent metal then start moving. Or do you develop a puddle first, dab then move? (molten puddle melts filler not the arc, is that right) After you dab the filler, are you trying to move the entire "round" of the puddle. And if you push the puddle forward and the entire "round" doesn't come with you does that mean you did not add enough filler/heat?I better stop there because that looks like a few of beers worth
Reply:Originally Posted by LurninItOK, in regards to adding filler...When starting the bead, should I add filler balled up on the surface then add heat until it "melts" into the parent metal then start moving. Or do you develop a puddle first, dab then move? (molten puddle melts filler not the arc, is that right) After you dab the filler, are you trying to move the entire "round" of the puddle. And if you push the puddle forward and the entire "round" doesn't come with you does that mean you did not add enough filler/heat?I better stop there because that looks like a few of beers worth
Reply:Well had a chance to try, I repeat "try" to TIG weld. It ain't pretty, but I guess it is a start. Seems that one of my problems (among many) is getting the puddle moving and "just enough" heat. If I back off the pedal, then the puddle doesn't want to be "pushed". But if I increase the pedal, I get undercutting and it is like I'm rushing to keep up. Although reluctant, here are the damages and any guidance is appreciated. (This was my first day, so please use the lightest hammer available  )Also, when "dabbing" is it one dab then move, or does it sometimes take more than one? Attached ImagesLast edited by LurninIt; 08-05-2006 at 05:42 PM.
Reply:yeah..you have the burn thru thing going but thats ok..looks ok for a first timer..we NEVER said it was easy.. its not...CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!!!!! but you'll get the hang of it then its on to the turntable/positioner..i gotta get one of those soon myself.... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Trust me, I never thought it was easy.... However, I will get the hang of it Seems there are some issues in my application of technique. Because I am getting a crazy HAZ and burn thru, but total amps are within reason, or so it seems. (50-75amps for 16g) I must be "hangin" out too long allowing the workpiece to heat up way too much. So I am thinking I must be doing something "BASS-AKWARDS". I need to figure out why I am hanging around too long in order to get the puddle to "push". Thanks for the input, I will keep at it for now  I am also going to try to hunt down someone in the Southern California area that would be willing to "show" me what TIG welding (the process of) actually looks like, and make a few bucks in the process
Reply:well 16 guage is only .062 thick..way too much heat..what size filler? should be 1/16 not 3/321/16 sharp tungestion...gas sounds ok..start at 30 amps..and go up in increments of 5 untill things "shape up" for ya..3/32 is way too big for thin stuff..you find melting the filler takes more heat than the work calls for...let me know......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:3rd Day TIG Welding, 2nd Day "Trying" To Use Filler:Well I ran out of 16g steel, but had some 11g lying around and thought I would give it a go. I have a renewed respect for folks that "know" how to TIG weld well. Seems at times my filler hand was shaking as bad as Elvis' legs I definately need to work on "smooth" dabs, and placing them correctly in the weld pool (I am all over the place). I am pretty sure TIG welders don't drink caffeine I am using the following settings for the 11g, but am still getting undercutting to the workpiece:DCEN1/16th "Sharp" Tungsten (2% Thoriated)1/16th fillerabout 75-80 amps.Does the undercutting come from not enough filler or too much heat? (Or is it a combo of the two). On the backside of the pieces I DID NOT (finally)  have burn thru, all that it did was knock off the scale on the steel.As always, any help is greatly appreciated. Attached Images
Reply:Your making good progress    One thing I will say is don't use a pedal for changing the heat, no, no, no,  you tend to cheat with one of them. Learn without then once you get it you'll be flying. Half the proccess is learning about the best heat for what your doing.StephenI'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntYour making good progress    One thing I will say is don't use a pedal for changing the heat, no, no, no,  you tend to cheat with one of them. Learn without then once you get it you'll be flying. Half the proccess is learning about the best heat for what your doing.Stephen
Reply:That IS what the pedal is designed to do... I'm not sure exactly what wirehunt is saying. With mild steel the pedal isn't nearly as important as with stainless, or especially aluminum. It's still important though, and a very handy thing even with mild steel. That's my experience anyhow, although experience is not something I have alot of.
Reply:If you've got the footpedal, then use it.  Particularly when learning how to weld.  When you're learning how to add filler metal, and getting the hand, eye coordination thing going, your filler metal hand isn't always going to work like your brain tells it to, (shaking like Elvis' leg).  When that happens, while you're getting control of that hand, you're gonna want to back down the current slightly to avoid burning through while you're temporarily idling.  Even if it's just those few seconds to get you back in rythym.  If you've got it, you might as well learn it, you're gonna be using it the rest of your life.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Originally Posted by wirehuntYour making good progress    One thing I will say is don't use a pedal for changing the heat, no, no, no,  you tend to cheat with one of them. Learn without then once you get it you'll be flying. Half the proccess is learning about the best heat for what your doing.Stephen
Reply:if ya GOTS a pedal use it, zaps rite  ,kbnit is right, use the pedal(grasshopper)-puddle right filler left.back off if too hot , it takes time.. been doing it over an over for 20+ now ... oh  and yes  drinks a lot of cofffffeeeee. but it s the dab an the shock that makes me shake... just keep up the practice....Above fillet welds are too cold. The bead should blend into the surrounding metal without undercutting it. You could have probably ran at 125 amps with no problems. The biggest thing I learned is to get the puddle nice and shiny before moving. If you are too cold, you will get a puddle, then move, only to find you don't have enough heat to move the puddle at will. If the puddle does not move smoothly, you are going too cold. You are having to wait on the heat, then lay your bead down, which usually leaves beads that look more like spot welds, then one fluid stack of dimes. The biggest thing I ever learned when starting was to trust the heat. I think everybody starts off too cold, then once they bump up the amps and find the heat and pace, it all becomes a lot easier!! - Keep on keepin on. You are doing really great!Last edited by kshellrazor; 08-07-2006 at 04:52 PM.
Reply:I found that when I was running hot I was actually running to little amperage which made it hard to move the puddle along. Once I cranked up the amperage a bit the puddle moved much nicer and my pace picked up a lot. In total, I put less heat in the material and the welds turned out much nicer.Justin
Reply:I am "beginning" to understand the whole move puddle at will. Whenever that happens... man is it sweeeeet I have noticed that I am waiting for the heat until about half way through (probably until the piece begins to heat up).I am working on "keeping the toes wet", (I think that is correct), so it is more fluid looking.Also, it is very interesting just the slighest "rocking" of the torch either increases or decreases the weld pool size, which if I'm not paying attention, the heat "cuts" into the workpiece. (I think that is what is happening)Well, I had a chance to try lap welds and this was the carnage that resulted. I did this exercise about 10-15 times.Any help is greatly appreciated (Also thank you very much to all for the insight to date) Attached Images
Reply:Carnage? You are doing a great job!
Reply:Looking good, now a little more filler, you're scarfing the top plate in picture 1.  Great progress.I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:Thank you very much for the advice. I will work on all of the suggestions this week. Seems that there is definately a "sweet spot" in regards to heat. Too much and your blowing through, too little and it just looks like glops on steel. But when you hit it just right, that is pretty awesome However, what I find is modulating that heat is like balancing on top of a beachball. (couldn't think of another metaphor). On a side note, looks like I'm left to my own devices for the time being. I went to a few shops to check about "showing" me TIG. BOY, you would of thought they were the keepers of the holy grail I can understand, they have a business to run and they are not a classroom. Even though it would have been a well paid classroom.At any rate, if anyone can think of different excercises that I could be doing, please let me know. That's it for now, have a great week to all
Reply:WoW you're doing a great job so far  i'm really happy you guys are getting the job done..everyone here has shown progress...keep it up.. now weld something together  ...zap!Last edited by zapster; 08-07-2006 at 09:40 PM.I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Just a nudge here and there is all it took.  Those are looking fine.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:At any rate, if anyone can think of different excercises that I could be doing, please let me know. That's it for now, have a great week to all (quote)as far as excercises go its all in a real steady hand and "dipping" at the right time..go slow..dont stop the torch...dip and go dip and go..slow steady and when you see that its getting hotter as you go (ahem) back off the pedal accordingly to keep the dips the same...steel is one thing... wait 'till you try aluminum..but you have shown great progress so far...i like it ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Now I see why you lot want the pedal (which I do use on ali), all this dipping  and that's why the very first thing I teach new starts to TIG is take a pair of gloves and a stick of wire home, then while watching TV practice feeding the wire. After half an hour a night for a week you forget about the wire because you've got it going in as smooth as already. And use both hands!Now the next bit I think I'll get told off about but, I use the speed of wire feed and travel speed to regulate the heat, which is why I don't beleive in foot controls for learners, it's just something needless to think about. But I'm sure I'll get told why I'm wrong BTW those welds are getting good looking there lurninIt StephenI'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:By George I think he's getting it.  Have you tried aluminum yet?  Just make sure it's clean.  Get a SS wire brush and don't use it for anything else.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools