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Hi All,I have an '02 Miller Syncrowave 180sd (non-digital display type) that I use as my primary welder, usually for steel and stainless, occasionally for aluminum. I'm using it for aluminum right now and I'm having problems. I seem to have issues with my hi-frequency (HF) start as I can't get a constant arc when it's on AC. I've had problems with the HF start before; usually when I'm doing TIG negative, if it doesn't start, I just do a scratch start, and it works fine, and usually the next time I start the welder the HF works again. Doesn't work maybe one of three times. So when I'm using AC for aluminum, it's much more of a problem. Occasionally it will work and I'll get that nice arc with the steady buzz, but usually it's just doing occasional sparks which jump in no particular direction - there is no arc more than there is an arc when the pedal is on. Occasionally it'll be enough of an arc, although not constant, to melt the aluminum, but usually when it's doing the jumpy dance it just makes soot and oxidization on the aluminum. Grrr. So I've done some experimenting to see if I can figure it out, but none of the things, all combined, have had any effect. Here's what I've done:-Readjusted the spark gaps to .012"/.305mm-blown out, with compressed air, the inside of the welder-cleaned the contacts for the ground/electrode-tried both 2% thiorated and pure tungsten electrodes, ground to a conical point-filed neatly and cleaned the joints with acetone and fitted them very closely.-cleaned the filler rod with acetone-turned off all extraneous electronics - removed battery from cordless phones, turned off radio, computer, everything except the lights (flourescent) and the welder-something I haven't tried - I have never replaced the collar and the copper fittings inside the torch, though they are pretty clean.-I've even untangled and layed the cords out so they're not wrapping about each other, none crossing over, etc.So am I doing something wrong or is there a problem with my welder? Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Let me know if I'm forgetting any information. Thanks!Brook
Reply:sounds more like a shielding gas problem...you do not mention that the gas is flowing out of the torch....? ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Plenty of pure Argon flowing at 20cfh. It's not the gas - when the gas runs out - well, let's just say I've done that before, and that has it's own distinct problems... 20cfh is what I use for TIG negative for steel. Should I be using more for AC? But that doesn't explain the HF start issues with TIG negative either...
Reply:Does the arc start like it should everytime with a freshly ground tungsten?
Reply:No, grinding it changes nothing
Reply:Are you using a new bottle of gas? Could be contaminated, but that is very rare. Also do you have a high frequency adjustment on your machine? You may also check and see if you have metalic dust where your torch connects to the machine. Kill the lights and take a look in that area. Sounds like something is milking away your high frequency.
Reply:Gas isn't the problem, it's been over several years that this has occurred, and now I'm starting to do more aluminum, so I need to fix it. It is a HF problem but I don't know why - I readjusted the spark gaps and cleaned out all the dust, but it didn't help. I don't believe that there is any other adjustment. Perhaps I should reduce the gaps on the HF?I'm wondering if being in the city, with lots of wireless networks and cordless phones all around, is the problem. Could communication devices be interfering with my HF?
Reply:and it could be the hi frec board , had to have mine replaced 2 yrs ago but i have a lincoln, i took it to repair shop was faster, i did all i could think of,or check
Reply:Have you watched to see if the spark is jumping the spark gap? It could be as simple as a fried capacitor.
Reply:Problem solved, I think.I reduced the spark gap to .010, and the performance was much improved, though still not perfect. I reduced it again to .008, and it's better yet. I may have to do some more tinkering to get it perfect, though I don't know what perfect is. Now the AC arc starts right up and gives me that nice buzz and the arc is better than I've ever seen (at least for my machine) on AC. Whoohoo!Thank you all for your time and trouble - I know my machine better now, and hopefully I'm armed to help others!Brook
Reply:It isn't any cellphone or external source.RFi may be caused by your welding system, but it won't be affected by RFi.
Reply:In my shop, we have been going through boards due to our power supply and bad grounding. Bad power surges have fried many boards in these machines. I would suspect that, then if you can not fix it, go to an analog machine. We have brought in an old Esab analog machine and had no trouble since.But ideally, I would want to fix my power supply.Bill |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:14:50