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Question guys.When welding with .030 wire on a MM210, is it normal for splatter to gather at the cup? I get so much splatter that it almost plugs up the tip and surely inhibits gas flow. I am guessing that I am getting WAY to much splatter and I don't know why. I have to push it with my thumb to break it off and clean out the cup. I am running the gas flow from 20-30 on the gauge. I turned the wire speed to zero and pulled the trigger and adjusted the flow when the gas was flowing, then turned the wire feed and voltage as directed by the chart on the welder. Turned the gas up and down looking for what seemed right.I have never mig welded before but am now lucky enough to be learning and it is quite a bit different than the AC stick I have used all my life.Between not welding in a year and now doing it with a new process I am confused about what this arc and weld pool is supposed to look like. I cannot see the weld pool as well as I could with stick because the wire seems to be arcing a little above the metal but in all directions instead of being just directed towards the weld point and it blinds me from the weld pool somewhat.I guess my problem is that I don't know what is right, so I can't determine what is wrong. I would just like to see five minutes of someone experienced with this process do it, then I would be OK.Bob
Reply:The amount of spatter is dependent on the type of arc you are running and the type of gas. You might try to decrease your wire feed speed or increase your voltage. Carbon Dioxide gives a lot more spatter than mixed gases. As you try to increase your heat/wire feed spatter will increase unless you can increase voltage until you reach spray transfer. Globular transfer at around 22 volts ( depending on gas) is the worst.
Reply:A certain amount of spatter on the nozzle is normal. Depends on how fast it's building up whether it's too much or not. If it's a fine gray or fine silvery spatter that's fairly close. I use an occassional touch up of anti-spatter on the nozzle so the spatter falls right off with a finger thump on the nozzle.You kinda have to get your head off to the side a little more with a mig than you do with a stick.
Reply:nozzle gell or grease what ever you wana call it
Reply:Bob, your wire will either help or hurt in that regard as well. I have been doing a lot of wire testing lately and have seen the differences all over the spectrum. Hobart HB-28 is a very good wire for a MM210. You should probably be able to get Pinnacle 70S-6 wire there as well. Those two have by far less spatter of all the wire I have looked at so far. The Pinnacle even beat Linc's L-56....surprised me.
Reply:I will have to check the wire. I got it delivered with the machine, it is 70S-6 but don't know the brand.I will also play with the voltage and wire speed and see how that changes things.Sure wish there was a short video showing this process in action so I could see what it looks like when everything is right.
Reply:also try changing your stick out.
Reply:I cranked up the voltage above the recommended settings and did a lot better. Will continue to play with it and I am sure it will improve. I was told to listen for the bacon frying sound and I kinda get it but it is a SHARPER/BUZZING sound than I would have guessed it to be.I also sometimes get popping and the wire sticks a little then melts and goes on. Not sure why.Thanks
Reply:There is an instructional video for MIG welding available at the HTP welding website: www.htpweld.com/mig-welders.html. The video is mentioned about half-way down that page. I dont know how much it costs as I got it included with the HTP MIG welder I bought from them, some 15 or so years ago. Contact Jeff Noland there and he should be able to mail the video to you.As for decreasing spatter and soot, there are several things I've found can help. Most of it has to do with metal prep, gas coverage and wire speed.-Clean the metal in the area to be welded. I like to use a grinder with a wire wheel. If there is grease or oil spray it with a degreaser and rinse off. Welding on metal that has paint on it is really nasty so clean off any paint.-Try decreasing the wire speed or increasing the voltage from the settings you're using presently. If the wire is skippng and popping, the wire speed is way too high. A hotter weld setting may accept the wire into the weld more easily and spatter less if your current setting is too cold.-Move the arc/puddle more slowly along the joint to be welded and let the wire fill the joint. Overunning the puddle with the wire seems to make more spatter.-Hold the torch closer to the work so the weld gets sufficient gas coverage. DipperWelder64 referred to this as the 'stick-out' length in his post above.-Keep the inside of the nozzle clean. I take the nozzle off and lightly ream it out with the welding pliers several times throughout the day. I notice a decrease in soot and spatter after cleaning the nozzle, due to more gas flowing through to the weld with a clean nozzle. -If you have a fan going to blow away the smoke fumes, or if you're welding outside in a breeze, use your hand or your body to sheild the weld from the moving air so the sheilding gas doesn't get blown away from the arc.-Increase the gas flow rate if you think you dont have enough, although 30 should be enough...-Use a nozzle with a wider opening (straight nozzle instead of a conical one). I notice a difference between a skinny and a wide nozzle in the amount of soot around the weld.-Hold the torch with the nozzle angled closer to the perpendicular to the work if you're currently holding it laying back at a shallow angle. This, together with holding the nozzle closer to the work, seems to keep the gas focused on the weld.-The anti-spatter spray or nozzle grease helps keep the spatter from sticking to the nozzle so much and makes it easier to clean out when it does stick, but doesnt seem have much effect on decreasing spatter to begin with.Hope that helps ya! Have fun with the new MIG!
Reply:I cranked up the voltage above the recommended settings and did a lot better. Will continue to play with it and I am sure it will improve. I was told to listen for the bacon frying sound and I kinda get it but it is a SHARPER/BUZZING sound than I would have guessed it to be.
Reply:I also sometimes get popping and the wire sticks a little then melts and goes on. Not sure why.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyNot that this is what's happening to you but on ocassion some of the spatter that's on your nozzle will fall back down the wire and into the puddle.
Reply:I've found that if I set the tip 1/8-1/4" inside the end of the nozzle that it runs smoother but this will significantly increas the heat so plan accordingly if you decide to try this.
Reply:Originally Posted by prop-doctornozzle gell or grease what ever you wana call it
Reply:Originally Posted by DDA52Bob, your wire will either help or hurt in that regard as well. I have been doing a lot of wire testing lately and have seen the differences all over the spectrum. Hobart HB-28 is a very good wire for a MM210. You should probably be able to get Pinnacle 70S-6 wire there as well. Those two have by far less spatter of all the wire I have looked at so far. The Pinnacle even beat Linc's L-56....surprised me.
Reply:The previously mentioned HTP MIG video lists for $18.95 in their catalog thatI just received.TeddCoHTP Microcut 400 & Invertig 160DC Smith Dual Guard MD-510 OA Rig Lincoln SP135+ Hobart Stickmate LX 235/160
Reply:congrats on the new MM210. looks like they already got you diald in so not much to add just wanted to say congrats.8^)) summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:Bob ! ! ! Congrats on hte 210... it is a nice welder.... in class i am using a Delta weld 452, that thing will spoil ya compared to the little 110v unit i got at home.... at class we use 3/4" stick out of the wire from the end of the nozzle, and when your done with the stringer, it should still be 3/4", that i was told lets you know you got the wire speed right, and a push travel lets you see the weld better than drag. but the draw back is the push does not penetrate as deep as drag, so keep that in mind. we are using 75%/25% mix and it helps with the splatter, but the deep penetration is with straight CO2.i don't worry about the wire in the cable since we are running .045" wire, and that is too heavy for light stuff arond here, but i did play with it and welded 1/8" sheet without burning it.... so it can be done, i think .023 wouold have been better,easier... you really got to move when you use the big machines, you go to sleep, and you really got some messed up metal when it burns through whatever your welding..... i think i was runnin 19.5 volts with the 1/8" sheet, wire speed was ____ crap i can't remember its been a month now, i want to say i was running around 10 ipm, i know you can doddle, you got to run with it once you pull that trigger.Anyway, enought of the rambling .... Congrats on the MM210 i know you will love it.MikeHH210Hobart Champ 10KLincoln Buzz BoxCampbell Hausfeld 115Victor JourneymanMilwaukee 14" Chop Saw7" Chop Saw4/12" horz band sawmetal benderother toys forthcoming. |
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