4WD Size Jackstands

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Need to make 4 of these. Replacing a complete undercarriage. Vertical pipe is 2", feet and braces inch and a half. I also have some 4" X .250 angle. Thinking about using that for feet and braces, less welding/drilling. Comments? Anybody made these or something similar? Help me save some time. Attached Images
Reply:All looks good to me, but I am not an engeneer, I can't even speel it.I would rather use acme thread instead of all thread, that stuff is soft as puppy sh*t.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Far as I know, and I might be wrong, allthread is probably somewhere around a grade 2.  And it's pretty likely to be not too safe the further the adjustable load bearing pad is extended.If you can find 1/4 wall pipes that will slide into each other, maybe you could drill holes thru both pipes at intervals so you can pin it to raise the pad.I had a pickup fall off of blocks once.  It happened so fast, if I had been under it, I would have been crushed."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:you can buy the all thread in any grade you want.   be carefull.  went to a fire call last spring for a man trapped under a car....   he didn't make it,  worst off,  he was only 21, and his father was a friend of mine.   again, be carefull under therewhy not weld the braces on?Bill BerryKeith Berry & Son Ltd.machine work, and weldingBear River Vollunteer FD
Reply:why not just buy some taller jack stands? i have some hf jackstands that are i think are umm well im not sure there tall tho . ill post this and go look and post back the size.they are 30 1/8 tall this may be eazyer for u rather than building a set.Last edited by 92f150300six; 11-26-2008 at 09:50 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by theonlybullyou can buy the all thread in any grade you want.   be carefull.  went to a fire call last spring for a man trapped under a car....   he didn't make it,  worst off,  he was only 21, and his father was a friend of mine.   again, be carefull under therewhy not weld the braces on?
Reply:Thanks everybody - excellent responses. Why I love this site. Responses:1. Had not thought about "grade" in the allthread. I will specifically ask at my supplier about that. I know this 1" stuff and larger is used in building construction so I assumed it was pretty strong.I take the fireman's comments about the young guy crushed under the car VERY seriously. 2. Why not weld? I am very floor space conscious. The whole thing about the rotating base ring and folding up the legs and down the braces is simply to make them "vertical" for smaller storage footprint.3. I didn't think I could find stands in the, 30" or so range that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg. I will go back and snoop the web a little harder. I think 30" will do it for us.4. I have the material and, if I can do it safely (proper material) I'd like to know where and how good all the welds are - not that a manufactured product would be substandard. I figured to only use grade 8 bolts, shouldered in the "pass through" shear stress areas.Again, thanks to all. As others read, please feel free to continue to add suggestions. I'll check back. Stew in Reno
Reply:Look at a set of boat stands... used to stabilize very large boats while on a cradle.They might have some ideas for you.The best things in life all come on a stick!
Reply:Scroll down the link to the "Blackhawk Automotive High-Lift" or "Torin Heavy Duty" models...http://www2.northerntool.com/jacks/jack-stands.htmScrew jacks are usually cut with a thicker thread profile than standard all thread. They have sort of a flat top on each thread. We install lots of styles of leveling jacks and landing gear using screw mechanisms at the heart.Your idea will work, probably, but there are almost certainly items off the shelf that will get you by with less effort. What sort of project are you taking on?City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:May want to check the Sumner site out, I purchased the Fold-A-Jack as shown for $89.00 each three years ago. They do save floor space and have a pipe style acme screw thread 1-1/2" dia. They work good.http://www.sumner.com/sumner/sub/pro....9.29.0.0.html
Reply:Standard hardened all thread nearly equivalent to a grade 8 is commonly known as B-7.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:On Cell towers for anchor bolts they use Left Handed thread All thread, Grade 80 (yes, eighty), 2 1/4" .  It can be found, but the stuff in the hardware store aint it.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:35" can make for a high and unstable load.I guess I'm more concerned with the base/leg design, than with the strength of even grade #2  all-thread in a one inch size.In the image, I don't understand: "Detail: ... To store, remove nut, rotate base slightly, fold all up and down..."Good Luck
Reply:These may or may not be good ideas ...Fab Stands , my version - not mine, that just happens to be the name of the threadPipe Stands
Reply:Your stand cap detail shows a nut welded top and bottom of the cap.  You may have trouble with the all-thread binding if the two get mis-aligned.  One nut on top of the plate should be more than enough.
Reply:It should be ok, if the nuts are tacked first with the rod inserted.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Originally Posted by lugweldIt should be ok, if the nuts are tacked first with the rod inserted.
Reply:True, but one can't have enough redundancies when ones body is placed in the target zone if a failure occurs.  Where's a squishy smiley when you need him?Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Hmmm, 30 inch tall, holding up a vehicle, on 'soft' 1 inch all thread with possible 10 inches of all-thread out past the nut?Iffy, possibly wobbly, not enough 'meat' and 'beef' and overdesign, leg base not spread out far enough (see comment about possibly wobbly), not enough overdesign for your body underneath it.Used on a hard FLAT concrete floor, maybe but even then iffy.  Used on an uneven, not flat, surface, Nope.Off-center, or tilted loads, can make things bend.  And when they start to bend ever-so-slightly under the load, in an instant the bend goes from ever-so-slight to flopped over and the load falls.  Happened to me with a 'stock' scissor jack for a vehicle.  I was NOT underneath it.  And that was with a lift height on waaaay less than your proposed 30 inch, but it was on a slight slope which I thought the jack would handle.  I was wrong.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I been a mechanic for 30 some years.  I always use store bought weight rated jack stands.  I have had a scissors jack collapse, it just folded up.  I used the stock jack in a 67 mustang 6 cylinder car.I jacked up the whole front of the car instead of one corner like it was made for.  Down it went.  Another time a bottle jack tilted in the black top.  The cube  van rolled down the hill a little on the rear rotor in the blacktop.  The jack stand under the truck turned into a pretzel.    This why yer supposed to chock the wheels.I saw ONE of a pair of 6 ton jack stand have the rachet pawl give way.  It had a C60 cheby on it.  The guy working on it hadn't taken the tires off yet.  It just snapped sitting there with the truck on it.  I have a pair of 12 ton stands I can only carry one at a time.  Its getting to be the more dust they collect, the more I like em.  They probably do go to 30"Be careful.....David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:yes buy the 12 ton ones I like them too they lift must be close to 30 inches and are a fair price.TSC stores here in canada. and I have in the past tack welded the base to a set of rims for a job I knew was gonna be in the shop for a month and was pittin diffs in.Last edited by kneedeep; 12-01-2008 at 07:25 PM.
Reply:OK, some more updates and responses - just great help from all of you.SAFETY - #1 I agree. I'll be under that thing!DENREP - The "Fold up/Down" means, I would like to be able to unbolt the diagonal braces from the feet, rotate the feet slightly out of the way and fold the feet up and braces down beside each other so I can store the stands in a narrower plane when not in use. I don't want to give up the floorspace of rigid feet sticking out permanently.WANNABE_W I thought about the possibility of binding, as noted by somebody just down from your idea, I think I canscrew one up on one side, down on the other andtack a couple of places. Then, remove the Acme or Allthread and finish weld. I don't know if that will create a binding situation or not, I have to dummy it up. Good concernMoonrise - very safety conscious - thanks. I didn't get into detail BUT I don't expect to have more than about 4-6 inches of thread out. The thread is just to allow small adjustments. Primary reason I'm thinking aboutadding a nut below the cap, if the thread alignment will allow it without binding - jury still out on that one. As far as uneven floors...I'm not sure what kind of shops some of you work in but my floor is concrete and flat. The only grade it has is about a quarter of a bubble for potential drainage in case of a spill. Oh, and regarding the thread stock, I priced ACME and it is just under twice as much, but....what is a life worth? Think I'm switching to 1" ACME.OK, that's where I'm diddling now. Really thinking about switching that round pipe with 4" angle iron for legs and braces.Keep your ideas and concerns coming. We'll engineer these babys together and, when I build and test, I'll redraw and post back for anybody to do "research".Stew
Reply:price a set of jack posts they come with the threaded plate and proper threaded rod to lift the weight and the post is full of holes and adjustments just cut to length.even comes with cross pin u would just have to make the legs
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammFar as I know, and I might be wrong, allthread is probably somewhere around a grade 2.  And it's pretty likely to be not too safe the further the adjustable load bearing pad is extended.If you can find 1/4 wall pipes that will slide into each other, maybe you could drill holes thru both pipes at intervals so you can pin it to raise the pad.I had a pickup fall off of blocks once.  It happened so fast, if I had been under it, I would have been crushed.
Reply:Originally Posted by kneedeepprice a set of jack posts they come with the threaded plate and proper threaded rod to lift the weight and the post is full of holes and adjustments just cut to length.even comes with cross pin u would just have to make the legsOriginally Posted by Magnetic MechanicYeah -you mean like cellar jacks?
Reply:MagMech, excellent! On the square tubes that are the outside tubes of your stands, did you guys drill those holes or was that some existing pre-perforated stock? Also looks like a solid .125 wall or thicker? The center tubes then, look to lift up and simply pin in position just like a normal stand. The top yoke bolted to the Acme thread?Stew
Reply:Originally Posted by cranestMagMech, excellent! On the square tubes that are the outside tubes of your stands, did you guys drill those holes or was that some existing pre-perforated stock? Also looks like a solid .125 wall or thicker? The center tubes then, look to lift up and simply pin in position just like a normal stand. The top yoke bolted to the Acme thread?Stew
Reply:The Latest. After reading everyone's safety concerns and in the interest of time, I have started on the first stand and AM NOT using any kind of screw leveling device. I am making simple, standard pin controlled height adjistment stands. I'll post a drawing of teh modified, much simpler version soon. Outside tube, 2 1/2 inch pipe, inside tube 1 1/2 inch pipe, shim welded around the top inside of the big outside tube to fill the gap/prevent any slop - a snug but movable fit. Holes for pin drilled through the shimmed area at the top for the grade 8 only, shouldered bolt which will act as the pin. I am only going to have about 6 inches of height adjustment above the top of the 28 inch stand in 2 inch increments. This is really for minute adjustments. Legs, three each, splayed at 120 degrees from half inch thick X 2 1/2 inch angle iron and, for this first one, welded at the base of the tube to the tube and each other. Diagonal brace from each foot up to the side of the vertical pipe from the samd angle iron. No bolt/unbolt, folding legs. Just solid, non-moving, hard welded feet and braces.
Reply:Sounds pretty good!DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Final version(s) Practicality/Speed of built wins out. No folding legs, no folding braces. two and a half inch pipe outside, inch and a half inside (the actuall moving part of the stand. A ring welded around the inside of the top - outside - pipe to take up the slop, corresponding ring on the bottom of the  - inside - sliding pipe, again, to eliminate side to side slop. Drilled at top for the shouldered, grade 8 half inch bolt (for the pin). Two and a half inch .250 thick angle iron legs and braces - welded solid! Very top piece is a lift out insert so I can change the shape - don't know why, just seemed right. Pic's attached.Last pic (finish painted) in next frame - too much memory requirement for this post.Stew Attached Images
Reply:Last part of project (still have to weld up two more). Last tech note, I stick welded these with my old Craftsman AC Buzz box. I used E6011 rod 'cause I wanted deep penetration and strength. Not so concerned about fancy looking welds just for looks sake - I'm sittin under this rig.Last pic of the two painted - just because.Thanks to all for the SAFETY thoughts, design comments and ideas. Safety first.Stew Attached Images
Reply:If that don't hold up your 4wd, then you gots one heavy truck.I'm sure you know - don't  put the load on the threaded end of that bolt.A butterfly without wings, is just an ugly bug
Reply:Last, last part. I had to build a wood base for my jack to sit up on to reach the frame of the ride. This is a 36inchX15inchX12 inch high wooden base with a metal top plate. Last part will be that 1 inch angle iron "fence" around the perimeter for jack safety. The build is: half inch plywood sheet for a start;a 2X12 and a 2X4 screwed to it beside each other. Next layer, reverse the 2X4 and 2X12, repeat. Keep this up till done, cover with sheet steel and finally, that angle iron safety fence.In these shots, it is up on a furnature moving cart. In operation, it will sit flat on the shop floor. This chunk-o-wood is mondo heavy!Mag Mech, you are correct. I bought LONG shouldered bolts so that only the smooth shoulder is bearing the load. These stands look awful stout.Stew Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by cranestThe Latest. After reading everyone's safety concerns and in the interest of time, I have started on the first stand and AM NOT using any kind of screw leveling device. I am making simple, standard pin controlled height adjistment stands. I'll post a drawing of teh modified, much simpler version soon. .... I am only going to have about 6 inches of height adjustment above the top of the 28 inch stand in 2 inch increments. This is really for minute adjustments.
Reply:Final-final status (are they really ever done?). Lifting Jack wood base finished, 16ga sheet on top (to keep the jack wheels from digging into the wood under load) and the 1 inch angle iron "fence" around the edge. I just felt unsafe without this fence to stop the jack, should it want to roll too far - not likely since it will always be on a flat shop floor and I think I made it long enough to compensate for normal rolling geometry as it lifts - still, I will be under this placing the stands. Three pics (probably in two separate posts, big memory pics). Pic #1 shows the base on edge next to the jack to give a sense of proportion/size. The angle "fence" shows. Pic #2, the base on the ground next to jack and finally, pic#3 with stand next to base/jack as it will be used w/jack fully extended for perspective. I didn't notice as I set this up but later saw that "THE" truck all this is being fabricated for in the background. I was just too tired to shift everything around. The base is hugely heavy. I roll it around on a Harbor Fright furnature moving dolly.Stew Attached Images
Reply:Pic#3 mentioned above Attached Images
Reply:Looking really good and they should do the job well. Just wondering if you could set up some spring loaded castors (one end at least) and wheels on a spring loaded set up, strong enough to support your wood base plus the weight of the jack but soft enough to yield when the jack starts to lift the vehicle. It might be simpler to activate the wheels or castor on an over centre principle but that would require you to remember to raise them before jacking, whereas spring loaded at the right loading would look after themselves. A similar set up is used on order picking stair platforms.This is the result of saying "Final-final status (are they really ever done?)."!"One of the things we have to be thankful for is that we don't get as much government as we pay for." (Charles Kettering)Mitch 180 (NZ)Lincoln SAM-400-220 + ?-400 Fordson Major + 2 x Tractapac Humber 80 + Procut 40 PlasmaMiller Spectrum 375
Reply:aw guys, quit *****footing around the issue  he needs to get a car lift for that working height.the gorilla that made it hold Ranger 8  15 yrs old SP150 mig 25 yrs old several Victor sets Snap On 130 mig  25 yrs old Lincoln 225 buzz box SA200  F163  78 mdl they all work just added a Idealarc 250/250
Reply:Am I the only one concerned about the stability of these jack stands? I am worried about the three leg design allowing for easier tipping. When it comes to jack stands I like to be extra conservative.Last edited by sdonecker; 02-03-2009 at 02:03 AM.
Reply:I too would be very skeptical about any stand that is not engineered or "home built". I base my reasoning on the fact that a young student enrolled in a heavy-duty mechanicprogram at our local university was crushed to death when jack stands collapsed. He was working under a machine when this accident happened, and upon investigation, it wasproved that the stands were under engineered for the intended use. I don't mean to be an alarmist here, but I do strongly suggest you be very selective in your choice of support stands. You will not likely survive in the event that something goes wrong. Secondly,do not work alone!!!Bgbkwndo.
Reply:Bgbkwndo, re: "Secondly,do not work alone!!!"You got it! Not a smart move. I will not.
Reply:what also helps is to overbuild everything double and tripple check every thing and also leave your floor jack still under the project it will give you a little bit of more protection later agwelderold skool idealarc welderEsab multi tool Milwauake 7inch angle grinder the best of all tho the oxyacceteline set up