1958 SA 200 lincoln welder

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I just came by this welder with a stuck  piston. I have removed the stick piston, but now needs to be bored to oversize. My problem is removing the engine to take it to the machine shop. Where can I get some instructions to do this step?
Reply:Go to the AWS forum and scroll down to the SA 200, click it and it will have a topic on how to disassemble the machine.
Reply:Kaye Sellon posted this in the AWS Forum as a sticky. There was a reference to a Lincoln website that no longer functions removed by me and her phone # added. For 1948 and newer. The older SA200's used a capture plate assembly for the main armature bearing and lord bearings and pins on the armature and flywheel. THERE IS A DIFFERENT PROCEDURE TO DISASSEMBLE THAT STYLE MACHINE. I truly hope this helps some of you. Just go slow and steady.IF AT ANY TIME YOU ARE IN DOUBT -- DON'T GUESS -- GIVE ME A CALL OR ASK SOMEONE IN THIS FORUM. Kaye Sellon 405-232-4799 http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/forum_show.pl 1- remove roof, gas tank and rails2- pull main brushes out of holders, disconnect cables coming from generator to main brush holders3- remove oil bath and starter4- remove cone end and exciter brush holders5- remove exciter (little)armature nut, washer and sleeve collar6- remove exciter armature7- remove control panel (leaving as many wires as possible attached to it) number cables to selector switch and disconnect. MAKE SURE ALL PARTS ARE INDEPENDANT OF ONE ANOTHER (NO WIRES, CABLES ARE LINES INTERCONNECTING THEM)8- remove the 4 bolts securing the exciter bracket to the main generator housing9- using a 2 arm puller, pull the exciter bracket assembly off of the main armature bearing10- remove the bolts securing the generator housing feet to the frame11- remove the bottom bolts securing the generator housing to the backing plate12- lift the generator housing and place a 2x4 under the front lip of the oil pan just behind the backing plate across the frame. You will also need to cut to shorter pieces of 2x4 to place on top of the long 2x4 on each side of the oil pan. Lower generator housing13- remove remaining bolts securing generator housing to backing plate14- slowly pull generator housing off 15- remove the 8 bolts securing fans to the flex plates of the armature16- slightly lift main armature and give it a 1/4 turn to remove it from the flywheelOnly when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Completely dissembling the generator is a job man, but thats how these machines were originally put together I guess, so to get them apart that is the reverse I suppose.When I took the generator off my 200d I just cut out a few of the fins on the bellhousing with a 4" wafer wheel so I could get my hand in to the flex-plate bolts and take them out.  I still had to do the 1/4 turn to get the engine to split because of the way the flex plate locks to the flywheel.I've seen many old lincoln 200's with the fins cut out or but and bent back.  When we seen this we knew it had been apart before.  But not many I've ever seen in my years does the complete disassemble deal to split the engine.  Its a lot easier to just cut a few fins out. Good luck man
Reply:I'm actually in the middle of this job myself right now, doing it by the instructions on the AWS site.  There is a small thing or 2 that got left out, but nothing major.  The advantage to doing it this way is that you get to check out your generator internals as you go.  On the machine I'm working on I wanted to check out the armature bearing.  There's no slop yet, but I had a suspicion.  Once they wear out, they wallow out the exciter housing where the bearing mounts, and then let the armature bottom out.  Turns out the bearing on mine is noisy and spins freely, so it was on it's very last legs before allowing damage to happen.Kaye claims she can separate the generator from the welder in 45 minutes.  I don't know, it's taken me a 1/2 day so far and I'm on step 11.  But I had a bunch of rusted bolts to deal with and spent some time drinking cream soda also.The worst part (for me) was pulling the exciter housing.  There are a couple things that were left out (in the interest of space I'm sure) on step 9.  A.  You need to remove 2 wires between the main generator housing and the exciter housing.  They're hiding along the lower leg of the "spider" assembly, encased in dirt if they're like mine were so you might not see them unless you know to look for them.  One wire (black) attaches to the right exciter brush holder and the other (red) attaches to a wire going to the exciter windings.  On mine the second wire joint had eyelet ends and a small screw holding them together - the whole thing was wrapped in fabric-backed electric tape and buried underneath the other exciter wires at the bottom of the housing.  B.  Go ahead and remove the generator housing bolts now, and slightly lift the generator, because the exciter housing (at least on my machine) won't come off if they're still attached - it hits on the back of the machine's rear crossmember.  I actually removed that thin stamped shield on the housing before I pulled the exciter housing b/c I was afraid I'd bend it up when removing.  C.  I had thought the bearing would be sliding off the shaft and captured in the housing, so I spent a lot of wasted time wiggling my fingers through the grease port cleaning the shaft with emery cloth.  Don't do that.  The bearing stays on the shaft.D.  To pull the exciter housing, you need a puller if your bearing is intact and hasn't wallowed out the housing.  She does say this, but you don't realize until after you've started the job that you need a puller with 59' legs on it.  So instead, I hooked a chain around the top and lower spider arms and slipped the legs on my puller into the chain loops.  Then I could pull off the housing without having to buy or make new tools.  If you do this, it's a little touchy if the chain pulls off with pressure on it so I'd wear safety glasses.  It's only a snug fit on the bearing, not a press fit so you don't develop that much pressure.Anyway, this is the first time I've had a welder apart this far.  It's been slow, but not bad all things considered.
Reply:tbone 550, thanks for the post. I was going to post almost exactly what you did, saved me a lot of one finger punchin !  I'm sending to block to be punched out and valve work and while its gone I'll sand blast and paint and check out the electrical part. It is hard to believe there is just one bearing in the generator part, and just a thin piece of tin to drive it.
Reply:Sounds good.  I've got mine apart now as well.  Time for bearings and new front and rear main seals.  I've still got excellent compression (165, 165, 160, 155) so once my new armature bearing gets here it's headed back together.  I find it very relaxing to be working on such a simple machine.  Downright enjoyable even.
Reply:Everything is apart and motor is on the floor with flywheel off. I just got off the phone with the machine shop----$1600.00 (ouch) for rebore rebuild unless it has to be sleeved.  They also have a manifold, so I should be good to go.