Made a tool

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this is a spanner nut socket of sorts.  It fits the differential carrier bearing adjusters of a toyota differential.  Turned out good and worked good so i thought I would share. what do you all think?The more I learn, the more I realize I dont know squat
Reply:Nice, I got alot of differential suff, I've built.
Reply:Looks effective. Nice welds.Lincoln SA200, HH135, Lencospot, HF80 Inverter, Rockwell 11x35 lathe, HF drill mill, Kama 554 tractor w/ FEL & BH, Belarus 250AS, lot's of Chinese tools
Reply:Looks good!! Nice welds too!Ya gotta spend money to make money!
Reply:thanks for the compliments.  The tool worked just as intended.  I was able to apply 100Lb.ft. of torque with it to properly preload the bearings.  I made a similar tool in the past for another application that failed quickly, but I only had a Square Wave 175 for that one.  This tool was welded with a Water cooled Square Wave 275, set at 225 with pure argon and ER70S-2The more I learn, the more I realize I dont know squat
Reply:That look's so good I thought I welded it.Awsome
Reply:Your welds look great. Could you describe your welding technique (i.e. pedal pattern, torch pattern, etc between dips)?
Reply:I prefer to sit, I shake less that way.  Im right handed and hold the torch in my right hand.  I try to rest my arms on something to steady my hands if possible.  Im a pulse welder(rocking pedal back and forth significantly varying heat) its easier for me to make it pretty welds that way.  I create the weld puddle about 2/3 of intended size with about half pedal and add filler, then increase heat briefly to enlarge puddle to intended size and position puddle to intended location.  I try to overlap (stack dimes) by about 2/3, or so only 1/3 of previous dime is still visible.  For the bolt head welds I had the machine set to about 185 but didnt use full pedal and for the nut in the center I turned it up to around 225 and did use full pedal.  If your machine has post flow (where the argon keeps flowing after the arc stops) resist the urge to pull the torch back from the weld immediately, wait for the gas to stop then pull the torch back to view the weld.  Keeps the weld free of contaminants while the puddle sets up, also reduces the gray appearance.  I try to weld in a smooth pattern and set as many dimes as i can before I get out of position.  When restarting a weld, heat your last dime back up first then continue welding.  Helps get back in pattern.  When your weld turns out gray it is a result of overheating the metal.  From my own experience I was making gray welds by holding the pedal down too long.  I would try and not push the pedal down as far to reduce heat but it would lead to me just holding the pedal down longer.  It took a lot of practice to get it down.  You end up rocking the pedal fairly quickly but pressing it down further and overall putting less heat in the metal.  Practice Practice PracticeYou'll sharpen tungsten less eventuallyDid I miss anything you were looking for?The more I learn, the more I realize I dont know squat
Reply:Thanks, I will give that technique a try.
Reply:almost all of what I have learned has come from working with and watching other people weld and asking them questions.  I have a friend that welds funny car headers.  He has taught me a lot.  He is really good at TIG but wont ever admit to it.  His skills totally eclipse mine and he says is boss' skills eclipse his.  A skill level I dont comprehend.  Good luck.  If you put up weld pictures or pm them to me I or the board can offer advice(hopefully positive) to helpThe more I learn, the more I realize I dont know squat