Weld through primers

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Are any of the weld-through primers any good?  I'm rebuilding a Toyota Land Cruiser and need to weld a a 6" wide 16ga "stiffner" across the bottom of the rear bed.  The reason it has to be replaced is the original apparently wasn't primed between these layers and 40 years of rust took its toll.  The bed is ribbed but the stiffner is flat, so there's a lot of contact area I need to protect.Any suggestions on how to rust-proof this area will be appreciated!
Reply:Buy a Ford.After the repair you need to sand all the primer and such off and give it a good'ol paint over with some "Duraliner"...Or get one of these..http://www.counteractrust.com/?gclid...FeYSNAodiyvy5QI have one on each of my cars and the truck.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I have never had faith in primers being metal protection.  Like to think of them as helping paint stick.Gordie -- "I believe you understand what you think I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant."
Reply:A good portion of the weld throughs are heavy in zinc plus phosphoric acid and good for protection, however they are generally intended for interim protection. Restoral projects having extended periods between sessions it's often necessary to provide some rust prevention/protection untill that time when you can get back to where you left off. The weld through merely cuts back on the amount of prep needed to get back to work over some other types of primer. Of course when you 'weld through' the protection is gone. Then there is a need to retreat that area."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyA good portion of the weld throughs are heavy in zinc plus phosphoric acid and good for protection, however they are generally intended for interim protection. Restoral projects having extended periods between sessions it's often necessary to provide some rust prevention/protection untill that time when you can get back to where you left off. The weld through merely cuts back on the amount of prep needed to get back to work over some other types of primer. Of course when you 'weld through' the protection is gone. Then there is a need to retreat that area.
Reply:Weld through primers also only work is the object is stored out of the elements... found that out the hard way a long time ago.  We had blasted a "project", primed it and moved it outside for a few weeks until we could get back too it.... had to blast it again and start over..  And this was not "rattle can" primer.  It's made by Sikkens and very very expensive.
Reply:Originally Posted by DemonSpeederThis is true, and weld through primers def protect the metal very well IF USED RIGHT, If you are looking for something to protect the metal while you are working on it, epoxy or even wd-40 will protect until you are ready to prime and paint, and then coating with a light coat of weld through and a wax or oil based rust protection, but you need to use a wand to get inside all the cavities for it to work right.expect to pay about $30-40 for a can of quality weld through primer...
Reply:Double post.... sorryLast edited by DougAustinTX; 07-27-2011 at 12:43 AM.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:I am restoring two FJ40 Landcruisers right now for my son and myself.  That strip of metal across the back of the bed is notorious for rusting out because it traps dirt and moisture between two fairly close layers of steel.  On my son's FJ we cut out the rusted part with a high speed abrasive cutting disk and I welded in a piece of 16ga. stainless all the way across the back of the bed and mated it up to the existing metal at the top of the curve with a butt joint.  The lower edge I just folded the stainless lip under, just like the original, and made cut-outs for the two rubber chassis supports. It sounds like you are replacing the wider strip up on top of the floor at the very back, stainless will work there too.Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma
Reply:Zap, is there any way to totally eliminate a post if I double post, or are we limited to just deleting the content?Miller Syncrowave 350Millermatic 252/ 30A spoolgunMiller Bobcat 225g w/ 3545 spoolgunLincoln PowerArc4000Lincoln 175 Mig  Lincoln 135 Mig Everlast 250EX TigCentury ac/dc 230 amp stickVictor O/AHypertherm 1000 plasma