tig 1/8" aluminum

admin

I am using a 125 torch, 3/32 pure tungsten rod, #6 cup, and maybe 1/8" aluminum filler. I want to make an "I" beam like weld with the one plate in the middle. I am having trouble with the starting of the weld. when I upped the amps over 125 the cup blew a chip out of it and the torch got too hot. So I learned something there. I also have a bigger amp torch, I think its a 2oo or so. bigger and harder to maneuver on a small area like this. Do I need to go to  the bigger torch to get the heat, to start the weld? IS there an advantage to using a smaller rod, or should I go with a larger, say 1/8 and stay with a smaller cup. In my mind I think, the smaller the area and weld the smaller rod and cup and amps you want to use. But with the foot pedal you can always bring the weld amps down when you get the puddle going. I also didn't clean the weld area before I started. I have the tip of the tungsten just over the outside of the cup, on a weld like this should I extend it a bit? Or do you keep it at the same position no matter what you are welding. I also have heard of heating the aluminum before you start, which makes some sense also. I know this is a lot of questions, so any help on any of them would be appreciated.
Reply:Originally Posted by caosesvida I also didn't clean the weld area before I started.
Reply:I have an old Lincoln squarewave tig 300. I have it set about 80 amps.Last edited by caosesvida; 02-18-2007 at 09:31 AM.
Reply:Try 125 amps.  It will take 90 just to weld, the extra will get you going.What are the rest of the settings?  Cleaning only needs to be 25% + (wave balance) About 125 Hz.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:thanks dave, I don't know anything about the wave balance yet, I am taking a welding course and the machines there are new, I will try to get a handle on the other fine tunings. The book isn't very helpful that I downloaded, what do you suggest doing to get more information on the other settings there? thanks for all the help.
Reply:1/8" filler???? 1/16" is more like it.. Clean is everything when it comes to tigging anything..Acetone..Stainless steel "toothbrush"..Clean rags..Brush the aluminum with the "grain"You'll see it get shinier and shinier as you go more and more..Thats what you want before you start... ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:if you don't have acetone around will wire brushing do the trick? Or is acetone a necessity? thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster1/8" filler???? 1/16" is more like it.. Clean is everything when it comes to tigging anything..Acetone..Stainless steel "toothbrush"..Clean rags..Brush the aluminum with the "grain"You'll see it get shinier and shinier as you go more and more..Thats what you want before you start... ...zap!
Reply:I just use a stainless steel wire brush.  If not, a Clean carbon steel wire brush.Works for me.David
Reply:Originally Posted by LSX89RSif youre THAT hardcore, were all in trouble
Reply:I think he was referring to the fact that you use a stainless steel "toothbrush" ... on your teeth maybe.
Reply:yea man...im gunna go with zap on this one, clean is king with tigging stainless and aluminum, also the smaller filler rod will help also, general rule of thumb is half the thickness of the parent material (unless your welding like 1") dont mean to hi-jack the thread but where should the torch be pointed while making the weld? at a 45 deg angel or more to the piece thats perpendicular or?
Reply:thanks thats a good question, about the torch. I will pick up so acetone today and my new toothbrush.
Reply:Aluminum only works forehand  That means torch points 15* away from the weld.  (towards the finish line) I tried it backhand a few times and you get black stuff in your weld.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Forehand and backhand? does that mean the direction towards yourself? and tiltling the torch 15 degrees away from the weld, I think I understand that.
Reply:Part of the problem, along with cleaning was that I was using a too large cup I was welding a piece close to the edge, 1/2" x 1/2' sitting 1/4" away from the base plate that was 1/4" by 1".. So when I would roll the torch a little bit, it would just melt the end. And with too wide of a heat it was just melting such a large area as to make a mess. last night I got a smaller cup,  and that helped. But it is still difficult to get into the area. I want to get a very small heat area and a very small bead, This weld is not for strength and only has to deal with maybe ten pounds of force. the length of the weld it about 6". I am thinking that I will try to get the smallest rod and the smallest cup and see how I do with that.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RAluminum only works forehand  That means torch points 15* away from the weld.  (towards the finish line) I tried it backhand a few times and you get black stuff in your weld.David
Reply:caosesvida,I get the impression that you are having diffuculty getting in close enough to the root of the joint in this fillet weld.You ask "I have the tip of the tungsten just over the outside of the cup, on a weld like this should I extend it a bit?"Also, you say "And with too wide of a heat it was just melting such a large area as to make a mess. last night I got a smaller cup, and that helped. But it is still difficult to get into the area. I want to get a very small heat area and a very small bead"To keep the weld bead as small as possible you need to concentrate arc by bringing the tip the tungsten electrode as close as possible to the root of the joint, without touching the weld or filler metal.  The longer the arc length, the wider the arc and heat distribution, and the wider the weld.Point the tungsten very directly at the root of the joint.  If both pieces are equal thickness the torch angle is split evenly between the two (45 deg.), but if one is thicker, point more at it to deliver more heat to it.  You can angle the torch slightly to push the puddle and shielding to the front in the direction of welding, but minimize the angle to apply the most direct concetrated heat from the arc.Maybe try a gas lens to allow you to stick the tungsten out further from the cup/nozzle and still maintain good shielding.
Reply:that is exactly the problem, trying to get close to the joint. So how far can you stick the tip out, past the cup? I guess there are a lot of answers to that. If you put it past a certain point past the cup edge, woin't it burn off or melt back? thanks for any guidelines on this. I am seeing some improvement. I have only been working on aluminum for about 8-10  hours welding time and am running across the same problems most people do  I guess. It is deceiving when you do a flat plate weld, and it turns out pretty good. then you go to this inside 90 and it looks like you never touched a torch before. thanks again for all the help from everyone.
Reply:I like to have my tungestion out about this far..And thats a pic after doing 1/8" Aluminum..Aluminum..Steel..Stainless..It dont matter....Thats how far out it is.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I set the tip like zap.  The end of the angle from gringing is flush with the cup.  On fillets, I hold the torch in the fillet and set the tungston so it just won't touch the bead.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:caosesvida- where in Delaware are you? I have a cast aluminum part you can practice on.
Reply:Zap...you need to put a dime in that picture."Common sense is not very common"http://www.tahoekeyshome.com
Reply:Ok that makes a whole lot of difference and a lot of sense, I can see why my heat was so out of control on the piece, I was trying to do it flush with the cup and my arc was really wide. I will give that a try tonight. thanks for the picture. I live on the southern end of delaware, It looks like you are about 2 hours away. thanks for the offer though.
Reply:Do you keep the tungsten out that far as a rule, or just if you are in a corner and need the extra length  to get the heat where you need it? thankscaosesvida,the tungsten "stickout" distance is really just limited by the effectiveness of the inert gas shielding.  Stick it out there, if the shielding looks like crap, you went too far, or need to tweak the shielding (gas lens, flow rate, cup size, eliminate breeze).
Reply:was zaps picture with a gas lens? thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by caosesvidawas zaps picture with a gas lens? thanks.
Reply:Ok just wondering how the effect of the lens dictates the tip length. this thread has given me a whole new outlook on the tig process, I think I have a better understanding of heat/shielding and the whole tig process. I work better if I have an idea of what the concept behind all of it is. Then the practice to get it all going into reality. thanks to all for you help on this.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterNo...thats not a gas lenz..That happens to be the smallest cup I have.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by pulserZap, small cup for a small ....?Seriously, what are your reasons for choosing a small cup?
Reply:The purpose of the gas lens is to get laminar flow of the argon.  It works on the same principle as the screen in a faucet (you know, the one your pothead brother always steals to use in his bong.)  The screen makes the flow smooth and even, with less turbulence in the gas stream.  It allows for more efficient shielding and increased electrode stickout.
Reply:Originally Posted by caosesvidaif you don't have acetone around will wire brushing do the trick? Or is acetone a necessity? thanks.