Stabilizer trouble

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I am working on my welding table ( http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=29776 ), and the floor in my garage is uneven enough I wanted to throw some stabilizers on it.  Basically, I was going to take a welded rod and run it through some 3/4" nuts.  If I would have planned far enough in advance, I could have drilled them with my drill press straight into the frame.  As an alternative I was placing the 3/4" nuts in some round tubing (one at one end and one at another end).  I threaded the two nuts onto the screw/bolt and placed it in the tube, tacked it, removed the rod (the first time), and welded it.  Trouble is after doing that the 2 nuts didn't line up quite right.... couldn't get the screw/bold to go into the second.  The second time I left the bolt in while I welded it.  Trouble is, I can't get it out now.  Anyway, I only lost 4 3/4" nuts, 4" of round tubing, and a few inches of the bolt, but has anyone had any success doing this? have any suggestions? or other stabilizer ideas? Attached Images
Reply:I needed a coupling nut for a project and didn't have one, so I welded a couple of nuts together to get what I needed and it worked ok.  But, I was just welding the nuts together.  Rather than use two nuts spaced apart and have the problems you are currently having, why not get a coupling nut and use it.  I am sure they can be at least 2 inches long.  Weld it in, no problems with the lining up, and you are good to go.Good luck
Reply:Maybe leave more of the nut sticking out of the tube and weld around the diameter of the nut rather than the flat egde.  This will give you more room for error and protect the threads a little more.  Leave the bolt in both nuts while welding, and don't get the nuts too hot.  You can even slip a small piece of pipe or sq. tube over the bolt to protect the threads on it as you weld.
Reply:Let the nut stick out half way and weld only on three flats.  Any more and you will "heat shrink' the nut.One nut is more than adequate to take the load.The way you have it is nice and clean but hard to adjust.  A short  angle with a hole and welded nut then using a conventional bolt is faster to adjust but does not look as nice.
Reply:Originally Posted by lotechman  A short  angle with a hole and welded nut then using a conventional bolt is faster to adjust but does not look as nice.
Reply:run a tap through the two nuts you welded. the mis-alignment due to welding is small, the tap will correct it and allow the threaded rod to screw in. A rule of thumb, when welding two or more nuts together, assemble on threaded rod, tack, check work, tack more. As for the un-level table, cut 4 plates, larger than legs, install bolts and weld nuts on the conors of plate, weld to bottom of legs. Jack plates.Miller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:If you're goal is to just stabilize the table jdh239, you could do something like this...You can see more details here http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=28716&page=2 and if leveling is desired you would want to use (4) instead of only (1) and it requires sacrificing one or more inexpensive Habor Freight C-clamps unless you have a broken one as I did.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by jdh239Can you clarify what you mean here?  Not sure I follow (a short angle with a hole).
Reply:Put some anti-sieze on the bolt, thread it into the nut and weld it.  The anti seize will smoke a bit, but will help insure that the bolt and threads don't lock up.I like round top carriage bolts for this sort of thing, as they are more forgiving of rough floors and slightly angled surfaces.  Get the ones with a square shank, right before the threads start on the bolt.  These are easily adjusted with an open end or crescent wrench.Am building a fish tank stand, and put some levelers on it.  Will take pictures and post later...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Here's what I did on the last one I made:http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php...1&d=1229809406Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:An old welding trick i learned years ago is to SOOT the treads with your torch before welding near them or on them. The SOOT will keep any weld slag from sticking to the treads. I've used this method many times when removing broken bolts from threads. You can actually weld right up the inside of the threads and nothing will stick to the threads.
Reply:I'll have to try that trick... Hmm... One problem that I have had in the past (especially with stainless) is the weld will distort the threads enough that you have to chase back down them with a tap after things have cooled down..Common sense in an uncommon degree is what the world calls wisdom.
Reply:What I have used for leg adjusters  is weld a 1/2" nut over a 5/8" clearance hole  and than insert a carrige bolt for adjustment . The head is rounded, threads run full lenght, and it has 4 flats for wrench adjusting.