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It comes in two flavors. AC, or DC. Y'all know that anyhow.I've been having trouble with arc blow on DC. AND AS ALWAYS, I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH CHANNELThe outside is ok, the inside is a MESSArc blow is definitely almost solved using 7018AC, but there's a problem.........It doesn't seem to have the penetration that it's DC counterpart has It's something to think about when choosing rods.But guys that have AC only machines shouldn't be put off. It still is head and shoulders over 6013 or some of the others. I guess it's a tossup. Depends on how much money you have to throw at a problem. If you have AC only, don't sweat it. It was all I had at one time.Pic 1 and 2......inside the "C" with 7018AC(very little arc blow)Pic 3...... DINGLEBERRIES 7018DC. AND THE PUDDLE IS DIFFICULT TO CONTROL IT GOES EVERYWHERE!!!!!!!Pic4..... typical DC outside of the "C" weld 7018DC. Arc blow tain't a problem outsidePic5.... Here's the news!!!! You can see that the inside of the channel welds done with AC don't show a heat signature NO REAL PENETRATION. The heat signature you're seeing is the outside welds made with the DC rod NICE There should be identical heat signatures outlining the inside and outside of the channel. See the difference between the AC, and DC. It's pretty significantDC run at 125ampsAC run at 135ampsBoth 1/8 rodsAND YEAH, I'M CHANNEL CHALLENGED!!! Attached ImagesLast edited by farmersamm; 04-22-2009 at 09:05 PM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:You haven't seen arc blow till you've welded on a magnet frame....For your problem though, I've heard that giving the stinger a few wraps around the channel will either make it go away or make it worse. Never tried it though.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmYou haven't seen arc blow till you've welded on a magnet frame....For your problem though, I've heard that giving the stinger a few wraps around the channel will either make it go away or make it worse. Never tried it though.
Reply:Man do I know where your comming from. I've wraped leads and somtimes allmost all of it,used jumper cable,moved the work clamp,tacked pieces from one place to another and payed close attention to what direction i'm welding . The one thing that works best for me is use a smaller electrode size on the side where I think the arc blow will be the worst, then go back latter and weld more.
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmYou haven't seen arc blow till you've welded on a magnet frame.....
Reply:Wrap the ground lead around the channel, its worked for me before.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:I read a thing in the Bible about how it always blows away from, or towards the work clamp. I've tried everything but putting the clamp on the end of my nose
Reply:Samm, try some preheat where you're having arc blow. Seems sometimes the heat will get rid of the magnetic field. I don't know why but the discharge lip on an aggregate screen will build up a field. That's a lot of fun trying to weld up a crack in one. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by UpnorthTo which book are you refering to..... I've heard this mentioned before, but have no idea what text it is......
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusSamm, try some preheat where you're having arc blow. Seems sometimes the heat will get rid of the magnetic field. I don't know why but the discharge lip on an aggregate screen will build up a field. That's a lot of fun trying to weld up a crack in one. Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88Wrap the ground lead around the channel, its worked for me before.
Reply:Samm My old welding instuctor says to turn up 10-15 amps if you are below 200 amps. I think all the books will say turn ampage down to help control arc blow or switch to AC like you have done. I think if you go to AC you need to increase the amps by about 10 amps,but not sure on that. Also put heavy tacks in and weld toward the tacks Kevin
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyI'll second that. Several hundred pound permanant magnet for pulling metal off a conveyor from a foot above the belt. Impossible on dc. Almost impossible on ac.
Reply:It's a polarity problem. Wrapping the stinger lead clockwise sometimes works, counterclockwise works sometimes. Changing direction of the weld works, too. If you weld from left to right, weld right to left. The problem is the flanges on a piece of channel, being short and at a 90 degree angle to the web, will change polarity depending on where an arc is struck and the direction of the weld preceding the weld on the flanges. I've been welding in chutes, transitions and tanks and had to start at the other end and weld backwards because the piece was to large to change the polarity on by wrapping the leads. Down hole pipe in the oilfield that has been phased out and sold for fencing or barn material often has different polarities when welded end to end. Wrapping leads works on them, sometimes clockwise, sometimes counter.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money. -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:at school i have noticed wraping the ground lead helps, also welding towards your ground clamp. some days i get it really bad and try everything and end up standing on one foot with a chicken on my head and i still get it. other days i can clamp my ground any where i want and no problems. biggest thing i find is once you start seeing the arc blow develope is to angle your electrode so the arc is still going stright into the work piece. this ususaly means it looks like your pushing the rod instead of pulling, but the arc is still stright cause its coming out of the back side of the electrode.
Reply:Move your ground as close to where your welding as possible. that should help a little. |
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