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Well, I got to try TIGing aluminum last night. VERY cool. I see why Zap loves his TIG machine! It's probably my new favorite process. I have done a bit of gas welding which helped, I suppose. But I was still having trouble. The flat plate stuff was coming to me, but when I tried to weld up a corner, I couldn't get both sides to melt; either the top or the bottom would melt, but not both. I was running at 115A AC on a Miller machine, 100% argon, red tip tungsten, and a 5356 filler rod. Oh yeah, I also learned what happens when you are holding the filler rod and the stinger close together while examining your last weld, and you accidentally hit the pedal. Man that feels good....not!Unfortunately we don't have any acetone or new brushes at the school, so I was using some pretty dirty aluminum. And I used about 2" of tungsten by contaminating it pretty regularly. Seems like I'd get it balled up, weld half an inch, and contaminate it. I'd keep going with the kinda messed up end, and NEVER TOUCH IT AGAIN. GRRR....why couldn't I have done that to being with!!! Pics:http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/P1010669.jpghttp://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/P1010668.jpghttp://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...7/P1010666.jpgthanks!Last edited by jknight8907; 04-19-2007 at 06:40 PM.
Reply:Not bad for a beginner but you missed one major step...CLEAN the base material....and once you've cleaned and you're ready to start, clean it again.The 2nd and 3rd pics show dirty base metal and/or you dipped your tungsten (common when learning TIG, especially aluminum) and kept on welding.You could benefit from a little more amperage and when welding aluminum, be patient.A T-joint like you were trying takes some time to heat up both pieces. Let the base metal get plenty warm and move your torch slightly from bottom plate to the top plate to get even heating. Then start adding your filler and weld away...Keep trying, it takes practice.- Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:Will brake cleaner work to clean it? I'm trying to think of something that I can easily take with me to clean the material with, because they have nothing but a grinder to clean with.
Reply:I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner on some aluminum handles that I make for the "jaws of life".The tube is knurled and to get the machining fluid off I need the pressure from the brake cleaner. It works fine for me.Just be careful with where you place the can when you're welding! - Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:I believe the stuff I would be obtaining from work is non-chlorinated (green can?).
Reply:I use the "red can" but they're both the same.Use the brake cleaner (or acetone, ideally) and a SS brush to clean your material before welding.- Paulhttp://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:The secret to getting the corners to "come together" at first is to concentrate on one plate..Dont matter wich one..Then the other without stopping and starting..Hold the torch at each place for 7-8 seconds...When one of them starts to show the shine..Dont matter wich one..Add a dip and drag the dip over to the other piece..Now you have your bridge...Then it becomes "even"..Try that And like ZT stated..CLEAN!! ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:it also looks to me like you have some thick stuff for inside corners crank it up alittle before you add rod let your material heat up till both pieces of aluminium develope a puddle the size of your desired bead. if your fit is real tight the pieces will melt together and add the rod aluminium is alot slower than steel have patience for the first inside corner it doesnt look bad inside corners are some of the toughest to start but the easiest to make look mint when you got your game face on |
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