New flux core tries, still lacking though?

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Alright,  I upped the voltage to E, the machine's highest setting.  Fiddled with wire speed and now I'm no longer cutting through the metal.The beads are laying down good, but I'm still not penetrating any more than when I used the lower D setting.  Stickout is alot less than it was before as well.  I dont quite get whats happening.  I beveled the edges a good bit, but its still got a 'tunnel' if you will.  You can see where it's beveled in the c-section pic.I'm using .035 211 Inner-shield flux core wire on a Pro Mig 175.  No gas.  Not yet. Also I practiced using the >>>>>>>>>>>>> drag method, but pushed towards the end of the weld.  Also, these are all single pass.  After I cross sectioned the welds I figured a 2nd or 3rd pass would be useless, simply b/c the tunnel is so deep in the weld.Here are the pictures.  Any more tips on how to get complete 100% penetration?  Bevel more?  Or upgrade to the .045 wire and liner kit?Machine settings.Uncleaned.Cleaned.Cross section.The weld I took the cross section from.
Reply:Why bevel the plate at all?  Your motion is the majority of the reason you're getting a void in there.  You need to run a stringer in there first with little to no oscillation, and slow down across the center.
Reply:What is wrong with that?  Settings look right, weld looks good.A little more seat time and you will have it.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Stringer being a first bead right up the middle, no motion, just drag all the way through using the same settings?  I just havent heard that term before, I want to make sure I know what it is and all.Its just that I'll be welding a c-notch into my frame.  I figure the welds should have 100% penetration so they dont fail on me.  I mean I couldnt get those to break, but I'm not as strong as a 305 rumbling down some semi rough roads either.  I just cant produce that much stress, lol.
Reply:You do NOT need a 100% penetration on something like a C notch.  The base metal will fail long before the weld does.  By beveling that top plate and using a weaving motion/oscillation over it, you're not alowing the wire to travel into the root of the joint, you're merely bridging over an empty space.  Personally, I would just weld it up as a typical t joint with no bevel.  You do not even need to weld up both sides of it, a standard fillet weld will be more than adequate here.  If you absolutely have to bevel it, then run a stringer, which is as you described.  You can push it or drag it, whichever you choose, but use little to no motion, and make sure the wire is fusing that root, then run a cover over it.  More is not always better.
Reply:Ok, I see what your saying now.  I'll try what you posted and I'll give the straight t-joint a shot later today.  See how it goes.  Thanks for the input fellas.  Ya'll have been a big help with everythign so far and the help is much appreciated!
Reply:You can also do a triangle weave.  Side of the T, center of the T (root) and other side.  Pausing at the sides more than anything else.   T joints do not need prep with the right amount of amps.  I would weld both sides.  A 1/4" T joint needs a 1/4" fillet.  That is weld out each plate 1/4" with a flat or slightly convex bead.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Supe and David are right string for the root then you can run a weave over it if you need too and 1/4 fillet on 1/4 stock any bigger and your waisting time/money and put stress on the weld it don't needChuckASME Pressure Vessel welder
Reply:Try opposite polarity.  Self shielding wire uses the opposite of everything else.
Reply:Self sheilding - electrode.   Bare wire with gas + electrode.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.