Pipe with 6010 advice.....

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Guys i have a couple jobs coming up that i told a friend I would help him with.  Basically welding 6" sch40 pipe in all positions.  Here in lies my problem.  First off I am a structural, and equipment welder, not a pipe welder.  I have welded a good bit of pipe over the years, but I always used a 7018 and did not have to satisfy anyone but myself.  I will be required to run 6010 thru out, and I do not have much experience at all with 6010's.  I picked up some 3/32" the other day and been playing around with them a bit, and the problem I am getting into is my rod keeps overheating and starts sticking.   If I turn my amperage down much more the rod looses the arc and sticks worse.  What kind of amperage are are you running 3/32" 6010's, and what technique do you pipe guys use when running 5p's ?   I have a little over a month to get this down, so I have plenty of time just need to get my technique right.  Thanks in advance.  ~JacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:I could use some help too.  I have not run 50 lbs of 6010 in my life.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:That's my problem David, I just have never had a job that required them, and now that i do i am shooting in the dark so to speak...I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:When I do pipe with 6010 I usually use 1/8" at around 95 amps. The last time I ran 3/32" I think I ran around 80 amps (but it's been a while so I'm not sure).As far as sticking, I've never had a problem with that aside from starting the arc. The 6010 is a whip rod whereas the 7018 is more of a drag rod. If you're having problems sticking in the middle of a weld, I would guess that you either aren't whipping, or when you whip back to the puddle, your arc length is too short.Visit Tensaiteki.com
Reply:I my self has never used 6010 all my pipe work I use 6011 I find 6011 easy to use 1/8 around 80 to 100Amps and go down I like the seal properties of 6011 try the hobart brand
Reply:Infro, I have used more boxes of 6011 than i care to remember, but 6011 isn't the required rod for this job.  If i had my choice I would run a 7018 and go to town, but for this job I have to pass their test before we will be allowed to do the work.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:Could some one please describe how they whip the 10?  It isn't easy in text, but I could use the info.  I have 10 lbs of 5/32 5P.  I am guessing 125 amps?I could only buy 50 lbs of 1/8 6010, so I took the 10 lb can of 5/32.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:6010 - 6011 run the same to me (prefer 6011 when available)...the whipping motion is the key to running these fill freeze type of rods... make little circles for the whipping motion. when the beads start looking like a roll of dimes then you got it.good luck with your test
Reply:Overlapping 0s?Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:3/32 6010 should be in the neighborhood of 85 amps or so.  I go 3/32-3/32 land/root.  You should be able to use very little if any motion with the 6010, at most a slight whip, but you should hear it echo inside the pipe as you weld it, that's the best indicator that the rod is at least flush with pipe ID, and will ensure proper penetration.  If the keyhole starts to get lopsided, wash the puddle side to side a little bit.  If the keyhole opens up, I change my rod angle facing towards the bottom of the keyhole, and use a U motion.  If you think it's overheating and the keyhole starts to open up, GET OUT before it blows open, because you'll have a much harder time fixing it.  If it starts to close up, I angle the rod up, as this throws some heat out in front of it and helps open it back up.  If the root is bigger than 3/32, I will use a slight U motion right from the get-go.  If your machine has an arc force control, try bumping it up some.  Some machines work fine, but some like the ESABs I've run will not even hold an arc 6010 with the arc force set lower than 5 on a 0-10 scale.
Reply:If the rod starts overheating before you get the penetration you need, run a bigger rod.
Reply:I'd think that the sticking and overheating are inversely related though.  A hot rod usually burns off more rapidly if anything, and is less prone to sticking.  3/32 at around 85 amps or so will just start to glow as you get down to the last 3 inches or so.
Reply:supe has it on the dot.  that land is crusial if u have your set up right the rod will basically run its self.  just make sure u have your angle upword not below the arc it will open right up.  i feel that 3/32 is the best to burn a root in.  easier to control.  around 85amps should be perfect.  if u dont hear that howl sound from inside the pipe you not gettin penatration.
Reply:First off use 1/8 rods.  Run a root pass, try to bury the rod in the root.   Grind it out to where there are no visible defects.  Then make a hot pass with a little weave making sure to get into both sides of the bevel.  Clean this with a wire wheel. Then make a fill pass more or less like the hot pass.  Then cap it more or less the same as the others but making sure you tie in to the bevel without undercutting.  I can do this cause it's all downhill.  For some reason I can weld lo-hi's overhead but can,t seem to use them vertical uphill.
Reply:i use 6010 quite a bit for root passes but thats about it,though some years back a job i was on had a squad of lads who rooted conventionally ,then stoved their filler and cap runs.i just wonder are you welding electrode pos ,these are hard rods to stick but it may account for the overheating.
Reply:Guess my reply didn't go thru...  Well today things went better.  I ran 3/32" 5p's at 80-85amps DCEP  I think I was holding my arc to tight and whipping back into the puddle to far, as well as running a little to hot.    When you run your root, fill and cap  do you just weld straight up the pipe or do you use a whipping forward and back to the puddle movement on the root?  also I am assuming that the fill and cap you are using some sort of weave in order to tie the sides in?  Someone mentioned welding downhill, and I just wanted to clarify that I will be using an upward progression.   I usually run 3-12, and then 9-12 followed by 6-9 and 9-3 o,clock positions.  then i always shift an inch or so when starting my next pass.  Thanks for the help...  ~JacksonI'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:You should not have to use much whipping motion at all when doing the root.  It's not like welding flat plate like a t-joint or anything of the sort, where you step out considerably and come back to form your "coins".  You should only need just enough to make sure both sides tie in, and maybe flick it just above the keyhole when necessary to keep it from opening up too far.Depending on how wide the bevel is, I will either use a weave type motion or an oscillation.  Just make sure you change your angle to face the bevel face as you move side to side, or you're going to get a lot of undercut and risk trapping slag on the next pass.
Reply:anfd make sure u feather your stops and knock down ur build up on starts.  if u dont take a cut off wheel and feather out your stops you will have lack of pen when starting again.
Reply:Jackson this is how I used to do it. Get your cupons beveled,cleaned up and a land on them about as thick as a nickle. Cleam the inside of the pipe with a half round file to remove slag, scale , whatever may be around the root area. A good fitup is nessasary! You cant have any high / lows on the lands and expect to get a decient stringer (root) pass. I used a piece of 2" heavy banding material for my spacer. ( I guess about .050 thick) Space your pipe out and tack it up in 4 places. Don't forget to move your spacer to the edge of your cupons after your first tack. If you don't your spacer will get stuck although I have never done that . Using a 1/8 P-5 at around 90 amps make your tacks. A pipe welder never strikes an arc out of the groove. Start off and build a small puddle, just enough to heat the land up. Holding the rod at about 25 degrees into the direction of travel start dragging the rod and, now this will take practice, push the rod in and twist your wrist just a little to hold constant pressure on the rod. This allows the rod travel at its own speed. You will see some light thru the keyhole and it should sound like bacon frying. If you see that you left a hole in the stringer don't stop just keep going. You can always grind it. Feather your starts and stops. Take off and string her out. Some people say not to stop on a tack but I always did and never had any problems.( less than 1% repairs in 7 years with Exxon). Grind your stringer out until you can barely see your wagon tracks. The reason I leave jst a trace of the wagon tracks is to gauge how deep I have ground into the weld. Nothing more frustrating than having the hotpass blow thru. Once you have finished grinding turn your machine up about 15 / 20 amps. Again with a 1/8 P-5 start welding holding a short arc and whipping (making puddles) lay in the hot pass. grind your starts and stops and buff it out with a wire wheel. The hot pass helps push the stringer into the pipe and burns out any trapped slag.Turn your machine back down and fill and cap. I hope this helps but practice practice practice.
Reply:FWIW, I am a jack of all trades kinda weldor and have some experience with pipe.  Not like many of you, but this is how I run it.  Lincoln 5p+ only, not just the normal 5p.  The 5p+ seems to have better burning characteristics and is more resistant to being disrupted by minor scale, rust, and contaminants.  I only really run 1/8" root, and hot pass.  5/32" cap if it doesnt call for a 70XX.  I really hate 5/32" 70+ (8010) btw.  Root pass at about 80-85 amps with rod staying at a 0* angle to the pipe all the way around.  Always bevel grind starts and stops for tie in to the next pass.  Otherwise you will not get full penetration through your landing, which should be about .065.  Also, you will have to adapt what is more comfortable in running your hot/fill passes.  Be it whipping, running circles, or a combo of both.  Hope I didnt ramble too much.Brandon
Reply:Ten different welder's, ten different ways......... Here's mine!Landing same thickness as a clear lense, gap the same.Tack 12 and five, start welding at eight to five.Whatever size and type of 5P you use run it hot and fast, rod angle pretty well straight in, if you end up with a window keep going, they are easy enough to fix later. Don't be scared to jam that rod in there, at times I'll run so hot and fast that the rod ends up with a bend in it while welding.  The main thing is to hear the sound, if you've got that then your in. To do the twelve inch butt you should need three 4mm rods, and remember that generally you throw a big stub out with these rods as the last three inches is normally stuffed.Hotpass=damm hot!  Wagon track then a whip action, cleaning with the forward run, deposit with the back action. Heat back a little for the fill and stripper or go up a rod size, then back a touch more if your having trouble getting the cap on.Heats: Root run: 3.2mm 120-130amps  or 4mm 160ish Straight polarity          Hotpass: 4mm 160-170amps     All other passes reverse polarity          Fill: 4.8mm 160amps          Strip if needed: 4-4.8mm 160amps          Cap: 4.8mm 160-130 ampsGood luck.I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:Another thing to remember is that technic is a growing moving changing thing, if it ain't working do something different....I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.