Attaching drawer slides

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When you attach the drawer sides to metal drawers, do yall tack them on or drill and secure with screws?  What kind?I'm looking at 18" drawer slides for my applicationLincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:I usually just use small machine screws with a low profile head that will fit under the slide mechanism.
Reply:Assume you're talking about the ball bearing type slides...1/2 wide....probably 100lb cap....like this...http://www.knapeandvogt.com/scripts/...pplication/pdfI use 8-32 pan head, thread forming screws for blind holes in 10 ga metal and 8-32 pan head machine screws  w/ nylon insert hex nuts for attaching the drawers to the slides.Used them on this table/tool box...worked great.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=51861Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:I made the mistake of buying a cobalt tool box a few years ago... I've been replacing the cheap slides ever since.  I drill and use steel rivets. I imagine aluminum rivets would work... but my drawers are all really heavy. I thought about bolts or self tapping screws but decided I didn't want anything coming loose
Reply:BTD, yup that is the kind.  I've read over your table build there a couple times.  Its very nice.  I'm putting together my workbench.  It's framed out 10' with 2x4s.  And in the center section is where my drawers will be.  I'd like to build my drawers from sheet metal since I plan on storing and organizing my hand tools.  And I don't do woodwork.  I don't mind the bench having the weight.Rivets entered my mind as well.  I like that they won't protrude into the interior of the drawer and cut my fingers.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Be sure to post pic's!!! 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Most of the professional toolboxes I've see have bent 'tongue' on the slide and a matching hole punched in the drawer.  I suspect this is more to cut the labor costs on assembly that it makes a better setup.At work we use a lot of rack mounted equipment.  Usually there are nut plates inside the equipment (enclosed so you can't get your hand down inside) and we use panhead phillips screw (or countersunk head screws if there's no clearance for the screwhead).I might consider tack welding a nut inside the drawer and then using screws to hold on the slide.  If you tack weld the slide on directly, be sure to make it in a place easy to grind out in case the slide needs replacing.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:That just reminded me, I have a good number of 8-32 machine screws and corresponding t- nuts.  Might be able to utilize them.  Thanks for the idea there.  I will have pics going as I progress.  Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:AndyA, I've seen the slides and the tongues you mention.  The old computer desk has an Accuride keyboard slide and it used those tongue tabs to attach to the molded plastic keyboard.  A fit like that wouldn't be bad but I don' have a louver making machine.  Although might be possible to build with just a dremel cutting disc and big round punch.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Hey Monica,I think I understand that you're building a wooden bench that'll have a set of drawers in the center...is that correct?  If so, unless your dead set on steel drawers, you might consider using pre-fab'd wooden drawers like these guys offer...http://www.drawerbuilder.com/A friend of mine used these as was very impressed both with the quality and price.I've used these guys before...http://www.eliaswoodwork.com/Cost a little more that Drawer Depot but outstanding quality...solid maple,,,,prefinished.  It was for a cabinet-to-drawer conversion for built-in base cabinets in a living room.The steel drawers can be costly especially if you did what I did and have them partially pre-fab'd.  They're tough as nails though...can't tear 'em up.Post pics when you're done!Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:Weld 'em! Make sure they are in the right spot first though.
Reply:BTD, thanks for those links.  Yup you're understanding correct.  I entered my drawer info on the drawer builder site thinking 'hmm these are cool and would be easy to put together the knock down drawers' and I came out to $300 before the $80 shipping (I used birch to match the top I planned to use).  I though for that cost I'd go ahead and get the sheet metal and put a 4' angle iron brake together on my 4x2 workbench.  I'm curious to work on those processes and the lure is too much for me to deny.  Yes, it will be more work and time, but I've got plenty of that that I'm willing to put towards this.There are a couple metal supply houses I plan to call up.  My favorite supply shut down as I found out yesterday when I pulled up   Sheet metal looks like $54-82 depending on cold-rolled or hot rolled and 10' vs 8' length.  Which one do I want, HR or CR?  Doing a little homework the cold-rolled is stronger and more rigid but the hot rolled will be easier to form.  Since this is my first time working with sheet metal, easier to form is attractive.  On the other hand I will be using these drawers for tools so rigid strength is a plus.What say you guys?Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Also, I've never transported sheet metal before.  I have a 6.4' bed, add another almost 2'with the tailgate down.  What do I need to secure a sheet or two of sheet metal?Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:Ok...sheet metal it is.  Now, what type?  HR or CR.  My personal preference is HRPO...hot rolled pickled and oiled.  It's hot rolled sheet but acid treated to eat off the hard, black mill scale so it's n\ice and clean when you get it.I used some 10 ga plain HR and just accepted the mill scale and painted over it...it's holding up pretty well.  For these drawers, I cut out (plasma torch) individual pieces for the  bottom, ends, and sides and welded them all together...took a lot of time but they came out great and the 10 ga is bullet proof...but overkill design-wise.For the next drawer project, I used HRP&O.  Actually, I didn't use it so much as the sheet metal shop I got the pre-bent pieces from used it.  The stuff is really clean and shiny...easy to weld...easy to prime and paint.  The sheet metal shop sheared and bent a section to form the bottom and sides...basically a "U" shaped part.  They also sheared the ends.  I just welded the ends to the "U" and there's ur drawer.  BTW...for these I used 16 ga...much better choice...plenty strong without the added weight/cost.  Down side is the sheet metal shop does charge for material AND their labor.  You might call some local shops in your area and see what they want OR at maybe they'll sell you the material.  I'd at least get them to shear it.  Handling large sheets is a PITA.You mentioned building a brake to form these drawers.  Most homemade angle iron brakes I've seen don't do a very good job compared to commercial brakes but I get a little picky on accuracy and appearance.  BUT, it might work fine for you plus you'll get a break as well.  I'd love to see your results.  How do you plan to cut this sheet.I've never used cold rolled sheet but that's just me...I'm not sure it's available in sheet stock...others please chime in.  For drawers,I wouldn't think there would be much difference in strength between HR and CR.Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:I've been looking over past threads and THIS ONE gave me an idea for a circular saw guide.  The long wooden guide by bassboy was what I decided to put together.  I took his idea a step further and made a guide on the blade side too since I'm winging a circ saw with one hand (it's easy to start driving crooked even with a guide).  Got most of the jig built.  I want to mount both sides on a bottom so I have a cutting board in the track.  I figure dowel pins or recessed carriage bolts at the four corners so the jig stays in position allows me to lift each side to position material underneath.  I do need to clamp it when cutting so there's where a threaded method would help.  You can see from my pics I didn't leave spare room on the motor side for clamp so I'll have to get creative on how I set that side.This jig will allow me to lay a whole sheet on the floor (instead of fighting with tables or sawhorses) and make my straight cuts with my circular saw and a metal cutting blade.  I'm counting on being able to cross cut the 4' side of the sheet so I need to configure my drawers accordingly (read somewhere there is a free online program that will help configure pieces on a whole sheet to maximize use).  The jig is only 70" long (made from scraps) so doing a rip cut on a wider piece would mean using only one side of the jig and some clamps as well as repositioning once I got to the end of the jig.  Not impossible, just have to be pretty slow and precise.The detail I must keep in mind is blade thickness when switching from a wood cutting blade to a metal cutting blade.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand
Reply:My circular saw uses a 7 1/4" blade and it's a cheapo $29 Skilsaw from Lowes I bought earlier this year.  If it dies I won't be real sad, I'll just buy a better one.Lincoln AC225 and CartLincoln WeldPak HD and CartOne hand