support thickness - table

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If i were to make something like this, the first nesting tables:http://web.mac.com/j3mbeck/JohnBeckP...el_tables.htmlwhat thickness do you think I would need to be able to support a person (up to 220lbs?)?Or would a different design be better?
Reply:i am struggling to understand as to why you would want to build a table like this to begin with? for your home? this design being used as a load bearing table is not realistic.In order to make it strong enough without structural support would make it too heavy to be able to move with in reason.we the uneducated have been led for so long by the inexperienced, that we feel we can do anything,with nothing~Miller Syncrowave 200Miller 251 mig
Reply:First, I wouldn't stand on those, they look to flimsy. You could box it in and/or add gussets to stiffen it.Thickness?? It would depend on the design really. If you go with that style, I personally would use atleast   1/4". It's the design that makes me worry. They are probably good for shop tables.Now for the prices....Wow! I have thrown away bigger scraps.
Reply:Yes, these would be for my home.  I have an extra room that I want to turn into a game/bar room.  These would be used as side tables/extra seating, not primary seating.Yea, the prices are ludicrous.Any other design ideas that would fit the bill?
Reply:You could build the top and sides out of something like bridge grate. I've seen wooden tables like this done out of alternating pieces top and sides. You could use thin wall square or rectangular tube. 1st piece goes across for the top. Next you have one piece on each side that goes down for the "legs", Then another "top" bar and a short "spacer" at the bottom for each leg. Then another vertical leg on each side and so on until you finally finish up with the last top bar.I'd stongly recomend that you do 90% of you finish prep before assembly if you use this idea. trying to sand and remove rust/mill scale between the "slats" will be a royal PITA when it's assembled. Same if you choose to cap the tubes. I'd cap and sand them all 1st then assemble the unit not the other way around unlesss you are going to use a single strip to cap all the ends at once.Last edited by DSW; 09-01-2011 at 01:39 PM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:John Beck must be related to P.T. Barnum.  There's a sucker born every minute!"The man of great wealth owes a peculiar obligation to the State, because he derives special advantages from the mere existence of government."  Teddy RooseveltAmerican by birth, Union by choice!  Boilermakers # 60America is a Union.
Reply:1/4" would probably work.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:I was thinking 1/4" as well.Problem is they'd weigh a butt load by the time your done.I agree with cleaning all the material ahead of time. If it were me,I'd build them out of 1" stainless square tube for the frames and potentially use stainless expanded steel,20 gauge sheet,or textured aluminum for the tops.Or you could frame out the tops and go to your local glass shop and have some glass cut to set inside which would really be sexy  if you did the frames out of stainless you could just scotch brite the entire table frame and wipe it down with a degreaser and the finish would be complete.(and look sexy too) also on 1" square tube you can get a 1" square plug at the hardware store for cheap that snaps into the tube for a finished look.allowing you to cut back on the fab time of boxing in all the ends etc. just my opinion of course we the uneducated have been led for so long by the inexperienced, that we feel we can do anything,with nothing~Miller Syncrowave 200Miller 251 mig
Reply:DSW, I can't visualize what you are getting at.kingballer, are you talking about something like this: http://www.tomfaulkner.co.uk/madison-nest/?Would that glass be able to support a person?I agree, if it's gotta go up to 1/4" it's gonna be obnoxiously heavy and a different design is required.Also, I've just got a flux core mig to work with.
Reply:Lets see if this works. Attached Images.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ah, Ok.Yea, that works. Looks cool, thanks.Were you thinking 1" square tubing or something bigger?
Reply:Originally Posted by jakkylWere you thinking 1" square tubing or something bigger?
Reply:It can be designed several ways, but if you wanted to keep it simple and on budget, you could make that design work.I would continue the plate on the bottom so it doesn't scratch your floor or cut your carpet.Then either plate the ends or gusset them. If you did that you could use thin sheet metal 1/8" or 3/16".You would be surprised how sturdy it can be.I would also make seat cushions and screw through the top plate and mount them.Simple and light weight
Reply:Originally Posted by jakkylDSW, I can't visualize what you are getting at.kingballer, are you talking about something like this: http://www.tomfaulkner.co.uk/madison-nest/?Would that glass be able to support a person?I agree, if it's gotta go up to 1/4" it's gonna be obnoxiously heavy and a different design is required.Also, I've just got a flux core mig to work with.
Reply:OK, having built these tables myself( not the ones in the link, but identical), 1/8" will work if you brace under the top with a couple "slats" and something to brace the legs from splaying. To keep as close to this "look" as possible, you could tack in two or three 1/8 x 1" flat bar pieces, on edge, inboard from the open edge as to keep them less visible. ( just one may be enough even)This will give you the stability needed to hold the big boys butts. To keep the bottom from splaying out, and again to keep with the look, I'd put two 1/8 x 1" flat bar strips, on the flat, at the bottom of each open end. This spans the "legs" front and back and will prevent the legs from parting ways. I say"tack" in the seat braces as in small welds at each end of the flat bar and one in the middle of each. This will lessen warping and will minimize the grey mill scale popping off and showing shiny metal underneath. Or if we are talking out of hand friends over for Sunday night football, you might consider a cross or "X" brace to really give it some mustard.i have built two coffee tables and to end table identical to this. One the client insisted on a "dime" radius at the bends, so it was shopped out to a shop with a brake big enough. The other three were done by me. I gouged out a line with a zip cut disk and bent the sheet along there with the cut to the in/under side. Three small tack's to keep it from unfolding. It's a good cheap, cheat when you don't have a brake. Just don't gouge too deep! Could also have a second sheet, like the top/seat, 6-8 inches up off the floor, between the sides/legs to act as a brace and a shelf. If you like this very clean look, make the table/stools exactly like the are in the pic's with 1/8" ( 10-11ga.) sheet and try it out yourself. Let the friend most likely to be nicknamed "moose" in the bunch test it. You can always add bracing as needed. That way your not over building. If it bends a bit in testing, it metal......bend it back! This is why metal is better than wood!!I like your design too DWS. 1", .063 square tube would be perfect strength to weight ratio wise. i don't think these table are over $'d at all. Don't look at it like just a piece of sheet.( that's sheet, not shee-ite ) It takes care to bend this and not scratch up the mill scale, rummage through the sheet rack at the supplier to find sheets that are clean. Take a good size  brake to bend. The price is usually double the wholesale to get the retail price. As an artist with work in galleries, you have to charge the same when selling privately or you are undercutting the galleries and under valuing your work in the marketplace. I can go on........Post pic's no matter what you build!!!good luck,Bert200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:80/20 extrusion and bolt them together then add plates or wood for the table tops or seating..  you could even make shelves and such...  i think it would make some cool looking furniture for a knock around room... wish i could sell one table for what that beck guy was selling them for....  he must be a ceo of a large corporation or a politician with those proces..Last edited by brucer; 09-01-2011 at 08:57 PM.tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:i'm still in awe of his pricing..  is that gold hes using or steel?  are the prices misprints with a 1 or 5 added to the front of what they are actually suppose to be?  geesh, i think we all need to start making furniture out of scrap metal..tackleexperts.comwww.necessityjigs.comhttps://www.facebook.com/groups/mach...dingequipment/
Reply:I emailed him for a steel thickness and weight on the coffee table.  It's 1/8" thick, and about 80 pounds, he said.  Folded like he folds it, that's not going to be particularly strong.I wouldn't recommend steel furniture for a room where guys might have too much to drink.(That said, I just made a bed for my 3-year-old out of steel.  So take what I say with a grain of salt, or at least some sea salt on the rim of your boys' night margarita glass.  )Last edited by Jack Olsen; 09-01-2011 at 10:44 PM.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Originally Posted by Jack OlsenI wouldn't recommend steel furniture for a room where guys might have too much to drink.
Reply:And look at his Desk here.Notice the ground joints. Maybe he left it that way for artistic purposes.Personally I think it looks unfinished.....$1500.00
Reply:Great ideas, guys.  Thanks!I'll post up with what ever I end up doing.
Reply:Originally Posted by jakkylDSW, I can't visualize what you are getting at.kingballer, are you talking about something like this: http://www.tomfaulkner.co.uk/madison-nest/?Would that glass be able to support a person?I agree, if it's gotta go up to 1/4" it's gonna be obnoxiously heavy and a different design is required.Also, I've just got a flux core mig to work with.
Reply:Originally Posted by kingballerkustomsis there a reason you want them to support a person? in case you and your pals must get all shiitfaced and decide to climb the furniture