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Im an aspiring home brewer and I need some help on how to weld up my brew kettles. Im looking at getting some used welding equipment and going at it my self the deceased gentle man who owned the equipment was using it to weld up an old porch so im assuming it will work for steel. not having any knowledge about welding what do I need to look for to know if the equipment will do the job. I have photos attached to show my pot the female couplings that will be welded into them. I dont even know if the 310 can be welded into the Stainless steel pot?? tell me what you guys think. Also whats the basics that you would need to know to do the job right? Im not confident that my metals will weld is 310 going to mesh with stainless? I have to admit I have gotten a lot of confusing advice from a lot of arm chair generals. Those two little buggers need to be put in that pot. The third photo is of what will probably be my mash screen but handle is broken so ill need to weld up one of those. Saw in previous post how to take off the rust. The fourth picture is to give an idea of scale and width. The last picture is the frame i eventually need to make if you look hard you can see some burner buts sticking out. I will also need to weld up some shields and guards for the burners like the ones shown. Attached Images
Reply:I am not positive what you are looking for here, but. If you need to weld those couplers to the pot you can use a 304, or 308 wire but most food grade projects should be 316 grade. You say that you have 310 stainless?? But those couplers are 304, I would tig weld these on the pot after the holes are drilled. What type of equipment are you going to be getting?? if the setup was for steel, you will have to switch over to stainless with a different shielding gas (argon).try and explain exactly what you have to do here and i can help you more."My fingernails are melting"
Reply:You post was confusing, but those fittings are easily welded to that pot which I doubt is 310 grade (if that even exists) Its most likley 304, common for food prep materials.How are you planning on welding it? Tig is by far the best choice, probably your only real option. You could mig them, but you will need do something to prevent burn through and be prepared to cleanup spatter. I would cope them with a grinder to reduce the gap between the edge to be welded and the pot.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Sorry its all 304. All the couplings are from MCMastercarr http://www.mcmaster.com/# If you dont know about them youll love um. Thanks for letting me know those will weld to the pot. I currently have no Idea what kind of welding equipment he has im making a general offer to the bereaved for the equipment. There is a tank of some sort on the back of his welding cart so lets hope its TIG. If not then ill probably trade it out for labor and cash toward the project. Double thanks on that because know I now what kind of process they should be using if I do have to hire a welder for the job.
Reply:I made similar brew kettle years ago from a military surplus SS 10 gallon barrel. Instead of welding the drain to the kettle, I welded a bent/curved SS washer to one end of a threaded SS pipe nipple so that the curved washer matched inside curve of the kettle. I then used another bent/curved SS washer matched to a scalloped bit of larger diameter SS pipe (curved on one end, flat on the other) to create the outside seal. I used a piece of heat resistant neoprene as a gasket for the inside of the kettle and a large SS nut to secure the fitting on the outside through a hole drilled in the kettle. I put a SS end cap with a neoprene gasket on the outside end of the nipple to seal it.I made a hoop of SS rod with short legs welded on to hold it above the bottom of the kettle. I secured a disk of SS screen over it so that it was a snug fit for the inside of the kettle. This permitted lautering and sparging of the grist inside the kettle.I still have it around here someplace.ScottMiller XMT 350 CC/CV w/gas solenoid opt.Miller S-22A wirefeederBernard 400A "Q" gunMiller Spoolmatic 30A / WC-24C-K 200A torch/gas lensWeldcraft WC-18 watercooled torchHypertherm Powermax 30Victor O/A
Reply:I have done that kind of stuff. I am a brewer and I suggest finding a weldless coupler. Those pots are THIN. I just bought a conical fermenter and the welds in the botom were crap. I tried to "fix" them and ended up cutting off a small portion of the bottom and making a new one. The fittings should be tigged, but unless you have done this type of work before, I would not attempt it. I still screw em up some times.FermenterMy cheesy setup. It makes awesome beer!the fittings on the kegs are held in with washers and O rings. Been that way for 16 years.David Real world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Go figure pro welders dont even weld in there rigs Im kinda set on this path at this point but i may not try to weld them in my self I will see how I do putting together the brewing frame I want to make how about bending a washer and using it as a back plate would that prevent screwing um up! I will want to make chonical fermenters in the future any way so when I get my equipment if its not tig Ill be looking to trade up. This setup will do 15 gallons easy brewing twice a month the usal 5 gallon carboys arent going to be enough. Ill find out what I bought in the next week or so. If im going to weld up stuff its going to be beer equipment or a ultra light plane you guys saying i should weld up the plane first! How big of a deal is using the 316 for this project i can order them in that type but the one inche couplers are a arm and a leg not alot of demand I guess.Last edited by Teljkon; 07-05-2009 at 11:46 PM.
Reply:At one time when I was totally into brewing, I scored on a bunch of scrap beer kegs, made brew kettles, mash tuns, lauter tuns, and such out of them. Similar to what you have there, I used a short SS pipe nipple and welded on the side of the keg near the bottom, so a ball valve could be attached.TIG welding is definitely the way to go on this, and since you want smooth sanitary weld on the inside of the kettle, it will be easiest to produce this by welding the joint from the inside. If you can have your coupler machined with a small step on one end, you can insert this stepped diameter through a snug fitting hole in the wall of the kettle, leaving about 1/32" protruding on the inside so this can act as filler for an autogenous weld.Your kettle is thinner than a standard beer keg, so this is a very delicate weld requiring a skilled welder. You want the joint fit to be very tight so you minimize the chance of blowing a hole in the kettle. A step drill works the best giving a clean truly round hole on this type of thin stainless steel kettle.Since this is so thin, the weld will likely melt through to the outside of the kettle, and this needs to be shielded with inert gas to prevent oxidation (sugaring), so the welder will have to rig up a small purge cup around the outside or have a helper hold a nozzle there. When I did my Keg kettles, I did not shield the outside, but the keg is much thicker than you kettle so the weld only popped through in a couple small spots and it did not matter since the inside was welded smooth and clean.This may sound daunting, but it['s not a big deal for an experience TIG welder, and it is the cleanest and best joint for brewing equipment. After writing the above response, I had a better suggestion, make your kettle from a 15-1/2 gallon beer keg, it is much easier to weld, cheap to find scrap ($20), and it allows you to boil a full 6-7 gallons with no boil over problems, or even boil 12 gallons if you watch for boil over. I don't know how big your kettle is, but it's a pain to brew with a small pot. I brewed mostly 10 gallon batches, which means I started with about 12 gallons in the kettle. A very vigorous boil is important in brewing, so you need an oversized kettle because of boil over.Last edited by pulser; 07-06-2009 at 10:02 AM.
Reply:Its 20 gallons so a keg would be a down grade. I would guess that the wall thickness of the kettle is about 1/2 smaller than a keg not to much more than that at max 3/4 smaller. I picked 20 gallon because you can buy 15 gallon demi jhons now and carboys are so dam expensive.Last edited by Teljkon; 07-06-2009 at 11:38 AM.
Reply:20 gallons is awesome.
Reply:Well guys this is the welder I picked up today what can she do. Im posting this before I even looked for the instruction manual online so at this point I dont have a clue. It came with some aluminum wire so does that mean TIG?? The gas tank is argon the other wire I havent a clue I popped the side panel for just a second and I dont know heads from tails in there so I closed it right back up the only casualty of transportation was a caster wheel on the cart ive figured out it has some kind of auto locking mechanism after I busted a caster (thought it was just stuck on a stone) . I was going to try to take the gas tank off since I had to lay it down in the back seat of the car I thought better of chewing up the regulator and such as I didnt have a proper wrench to do it. Wires got a little tangled is there a neater way to store them by the way without damaging them?? It came with an auto adjusting hood so thats cool also got a good bit of lens plates and such with it. Know its time to go and look for an instruction manual. Attached Images
Reply:Ya... you need to start reading now.Start herehttp://www.millerwelds.com/resources/Dont stop until you thoroughly confused.To get you pointed in the right direction, you have a MIG welder there, sometimes called a wirefeeder. It will not TIG, that is a totally different machine and process.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:In pic of fittings I see a BSPT fitting, why are you using a metric fitting? Just curious.Peter
Reply:Kinda figured it as being a mig what confuses me is for some reason i was under the impression that you could only do aluminum with a TIG. yet this had some aluminum wire with it. Its 1/2" threaded interior which was the only mesurment i was worried about at the time and the only one mentioned in the Mcmaster catalog. It will be welded directly into the pot and used as a screw hole for a 1/2" NPT threaded thermometer. the real thing that i want to know is can this build the frame like the one pictured in my first post. Also Id like to do it all out of steel will it work with steel!Last edited by Teljkon; 07-07-2009 at 01:05 AM.
Reply:Answered my own questions on the aluminum and steel thing but im stil wondering about metal thickness??! Hobart says with proper prep yes but the wire seems way to small to do the job will i have to buy a new head or something maybe diffrent wire huh! Well this is a rude awakaning to how little i really know thought it would be a quick look at couple of charts and off i go but i guess not huh. I just finished college wtf when can I stop studying stuff.
Reply:You should be able to build the stand. A good solid bas will be important with the weight you will be holding up. I would guess that you have the right parts to do this and the wire for steel already. You need to match the tip to the size of the wire, so you might have to change that. You may or may not have the right gas. You need to check and see exactly what the label on the gas says. 100% Argon is for the alum wire. C25 or an argon/CO2 mix is used for steel.If you have the chance, look into a night class at a local tech school or community college on welding. Mig isn't that hard to learn on your own, but the class will be money well spent on getting you ahead fast.
Reply:Originally Posted by Teljkon I just finished college wtf when can I stop studying stuff.
Reply:As DSW says, your new MIG welder will be fine for making a carbon steel frame. And I agree that you'll want a bottle of 75% Argon 25% CO2 shield gas. Solid steel MIG wire is identified as E70S-X, and any version will work E70S-2, -3, -4, or -6. If you have to buy new wire, E70S-6 is a good choice.Maybe someone else here can make a recommendation on the wire diameter, I'm not sure of the capability of this welder, I think 0.030" would be O.K..
Reply:Are you sure that fitting is 1/2" inside? If so, im confused because the BSPT printed on it means its a british standard pipe thread fitting, tapered like an NPT fitting but slightly smaller I believe. Its not 1/2" either, 1/2" pipe fittings measures almost 7/8 I think.If you want a 1/2" NPT fitting, you want something like this. http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k224/=2n66toHave we all gone mad?
Reply:this is what i I ordered the other one is the same ordering peramiters in 1" think they sent me the wrong stuff I dont often deal with pipe stuff so i didnt know what BSPT means and when i checked to see if they screwed in ok they did but not all the way I figured that was just from the coupler being to shallow! I need whole couplers though not halfs beacause theres stuff going in both ends at least for the 1" but know that I see those i may take the 1/2 cpouplers as im considering upgrading these buggers all to 3/16 and using the ones I have as practice pieces.http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k214/=2n6wmrcould i do a stainless steel frame with this and just switch my gass off once (I was going to ask about that after i read the diffrent stuff in the owners manual on gases). I live down by the salt in florida which eats every dam thing and my frame will probabaly live outside for a few years also my mothers boy friend is intrested in doing some steel for his boat im assuming that is going to be stainless work too. I wonder what the cost diffrence for doing the stuff in stainless is compared to carbon steel. considerable I would bet but if your going to do something do it right the first time eh. might as well learn to work with stainelss know if i want to make chonical fermenters.Last edited by Teljkon; 07-07-2009 at 02:08 PM.
Reply:Its set up for carbon steel right know
Reply:Dont try to mig weld those fittings on, there is a 99.9% chance your just going to make a mess out of it.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:I know I know. I figure Ill either get a lot of practice on my frame project and evaluate my confidence from there then look at the troubles with doing it mig I know its a hard job to do mig but not impossible and you better know what your doing. my plans are to use some steel tubbing in the arms of the frame so i get some practice doing circles then take my scraps by some sheet curve it and practice putting the tubbing onto the sheet. .Ill also be able to use the sheet to do the circles around my burners. problem with the pot is how do i get a mesurement on thickness. is there a tool that you dont need a edge to messure with Im aware of those little coins, but other than that i dont know of anything??Of course through the whole practice ill evaluate and decide if i dont think i have the skill im not blowing a 120$ pot just so i can use equipment i spent less than that on. so the other question is are there any Tig welders in south florida on the board that has the skill to do the job. Secondly do they sell steel in triangle tubes??
Reply:Originally Posted by pulserAs DSW says, your new MIG welder will be fine for making a carbon steel frame. And I agree that you'll want a bottle of 75% Argon 25% CO2 shield gas. Solid steel MIG wire is identified as E70S-X, and any version will work E70S-2, -3, -4, or -6. If you have to buy new wire, E70S-6 is a good choice.Maybe someone else here can make a recommendation on the wire diameter, I'm not sure of the capability of this welder, I think 0.030" would be O.K..
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI have done that kind of stuff. I am a brewer and I suggest finding a weldless coupler. Those pots are THIN. I just bought a conical fermenter and the welds in the botom were crap. I tried to "fix" them and ended up cutting off a small portion of the bottom and making a new one. The fittings should be tigged, but unless you have done this type of work before, I would not attempt it. I still screw em up some times.FermenterMy cheesy setup. It makes awesome beer!the fittings on the kegs are held in with washers and O rings. Been that way for 16 years.DavidOriginally Posted by TeljkonGo figure pro welders dont even weld in there rigs Im kinda set on this path at this point but i may not try to weld them in my self I will see how I do putting together the brewing frame I want to make how about bending a washer and using it as a back plate would that prevent screwing um up! I will want to make chonical fermenters in the future any way so when I get my equipment if its not tig Ill be looking to trade up. This setup will do 15 gallons easy brewing twice a month the usal 5 gallon carboys arent going to be enough. Ill find out what I bought in the next week or so. If im going to weld up stuff its going to be beer equipment or a ultra light plane you guys saying i should weld up the plane first! How big of a deal is using the 316 for this project i can order them in that type but the one inche couplers are a arm and a leg not alot of demand I guess.
Reply:Dont worry about it i feel more folish than you do. no one will give me an answer on my 220-230 question, and my R question in wire designation. this either means no one knows or its a really stupid and basic. Probalbe the latter not the sooner Theres all kinds of math I would need to know to do that tasile strength flight basics wieght vesus power ratios stuff I dont have the first clue about.
Reply:Originally Posted by TeljkonDont worry about it i feel more folish than you do. no one will give me an answer on my 220-230 question, and my R question in wire designation. this either means no one knows or its a really stupid and basic. Probalbe the latter not the sooner
Reply:Originally Posted by TeljkonDont worry about it i feel more folish than you do. no one will give me an answer on my 220-230 question, and my R question in wire designation. this either means no one knows or its a really stupid and basic. Probalbe the latter not the sooner
Reply:First off good news is I found a welder thats going to tig my pots so know its just a matter of building that frame you guys saw.Secondly thanks for the answers to those question DSW & Sandy. I fixed a broken caster wheel on my cart the other day and noticed that some of my carbon steel wire was rusting up what can I do to preserve it. Speaking of that i need to give it another check today Im not sure if this was rust that was there already or rust from storing it otside its under a covered area with a tarp over I dont know how much this will do for me as far a rust protection. I was going to transfer it to another area but the person with the space backed out as far as I can tell.
Reply:How to keep the wire from rusting... Do more welding projects so you use it up faster before it rusts!Looking back carefully at the picts you posted of the alum and steel wire, I see some dark spots on the roll that might indicate that the spool already had some rust on it.I like to keep wire thats not on the machine in a sealed bag stored inside the house. It's less likely to form condensation there than in the garage in spring and fall. If I am not going to use the Mig for a good long time, I'll pull the roll and store it also.On small non critical projects, a little rust wont hurt. If you have some thats getting real bad, strip that wire off the roll till you get to some good wire. They sell little felt pads that you can clamp on the wire to help remove any loose rust before it goes thru the rollers and into the gun. I try and avoid large rolls of wire I don't usually use. 10 lbs of .023 is great, but if I only need less than 1 lb, the rest may sit for 2 years. I usually run .030 so I get 10 lb spools of that and just buy 2 lb spools of the other sizes unless I expect I'll use alot.As far as keeping it under a tarp outside, you can expect that temp changes will make the unit sweat at times and lead to rust and moisture issues.
Reply:Ive managed to lift the welding set across the yard and into the shed so there should be some protection in there Ive located an intresting site for SS cones check it out. Can you say conical fermineter.http://www.toledometalspinning.com/p.../priceList.asp
Reply:Can i grind theses down a little or will that comprimise the metal id just like to smoth them out some should i do this with a file perhaps I do have a roto zip that has grinding heads!!! I dont think he back gassed any of these when he did them. Ill post the other couple of pictures in another post following this one. Just incase any one was wondering no I didnt weld these. Attached Images
Reply:its kindof important that these be smooth on the inside so i dont have any build up on them bacteria to live in. All and all for 2 cases of beer i didnt get a bad deal. the fronts are **** though perfect dimes all the way around on almost all of them. Attached Images
Reply:I like that cheesey set up.....I already tried cutting the tops off of three beer kegsto use as pots..... yup it's a mess.......besides the cheese goes with the beer...
Reply:I would call the guy back and ask if he was supposed to weld the back. If you stated that it was going to be for food grade storage. He should be able with Tig to clean that up fast.
Reply:He new what it was going to be used for when he did it so i dont know what the deal is i dont want to bug him to much about it he did it as a favor for 2 cases of beer. in terms of cost that 40 bucks i paid for what probably would have been a 120 dollar job or more so i kinda got what I got and need to make due before I started grinding though i wanted some advice from you guys. maybe I should move my posts to the grinding forum no?
Reply:bump for more answers
Reply:It's definitely something that needs to be addressed.I would think a dremel tool with a small stone, abrasive cutoff disk or rotary burr would clean it up decent. The difficulty is that the weld material will most likely be very hard as well as irregular, and the sheet metal is very thin, so you will have to be very careful when you grind.As said having the inside welded would solve the issue, and if any of this "sugaring" occurs again, at least it's on the outside where it may not be pretty, it's at least easy to keep the working part clean. When working with thin SS the rear needs to be purged with argon to protect the SS from forming what you see.Hope this helps.
Reply:Not that it matters now, but as suggested previously, the fittings could have been inserted to the ID just a bit, and the joint could have been fusion welded from the inside, then you would not care about sugaring on the outside.
Reply:The gent who did it was somone who welds pumps down in florida they have to be SS or they rust. Honestly I dont think he though about it beacause when welding a pump no ones drinking off it but the grass. What seemed like the shop super came over and comented on the sugaring when i picked it up. If i inlist him to help with my conicals Ill make sure he knows as long as i can grind it and its not going to like shatter or somehting im cool i can fix it up. a few arent that bad after all. Now i need to figure out how to get the dam thermometers in wiith the faces the right side up and a good seal. LOL
Reply:Cleaned these up really nice ill post some picks once I get the 240 in and need som answers on making welds. The cost is prohibitive though the qoute was for 250$ I definetly dont have right know. Anyone know what the cost on some thing like this should be whats the materials cost of this I have plenty of slots for the breaker and its very close to the box Id say no more than. 8ft of line tops. what whould the material cost be on a 220 breaker and the larger line thats needed to carry tha amps for the machine. (this is what the electrician told me was special.) Finally the cost of the outlet. Ive had some luck in the past buying the materials for jobs in the past and getting good reductions that way.Last edited by Teljkon; 08-07-2009 at 01:00 PM.
Reply:Not that it makes any difference now, but the texture of those welds means nothing. The beer you'll brew in there will be boiled for an hour and that'll take care of any of the crap that might get in the welds. I've been brewing for a while in a converted keg that had welds slightly better than that and have never had an issue. Bottom line, don't worry about the welds as long as they don't leak. You'l never get that kettle so clean that it won't have bacteria in it, the boiling is what kills it.
Reply:Originally Posted by TeljkonCleaned these up really nice ill post some picks once I get the 240 in and need som answers on making welds. The cost is prohibitive though the qoute was for 250$ I definetly dont have right know. Anyone know what the cost on some thing like this should be whats the materials cost of this I have plenty of slots for the breaker and its very close to the box Id say no more than. 8ft of line tops. what whould the material cost be on a 220 breaker and the larger line thats needed to carry tha amps for the machine. (this is what the electrician told me was special.) Finally the cost of the outlet. Ive had some luck in the past buying the materials for jobs in the past and getting good reductions that way.
Reply:The electrician said it needed a sort of two tiered breaker. Would that be the 60 amp breaker your talking about if so whats the cost of that. He also said 6 gauge wire was needed as you stated was the best option. He was only going by what he could see on the side of tha actual welder so im sure he dosent know it could run on less. As far as the clean up goes wanabe its been done. I did it more for being able to clean the inside a littel without destroying a sponge etc and to take off anything tha might break freee etc. Also to keep stuff from geting caught in nook and cranies that may be there as im sure you know you dont want to go and brew in 2 weeks to find a piece of grain was caught in there spoiling. I also store some of my none boiled equipment in my pots, saves on space. I found a turkey fryer so i shouold be able to do a no sparge method by proping it up high and pot swaping between my mash and boil.had to clean the hell out of the thing it was so badly rusted that all the holes that the flames usualy come through wer cloged when I first turned it on I got two small flames coming out and i just thought it was a littel wet and would dry off if i could get it to light a little more. The back end decided to suddenly decided to catch on fire.Most of the time this would mean the burner was junk but this Is an odd model with a hole going down through the whole burner and then the crown off the burrner crown can be taken out this way. The bottom of the burner is shaped like a cup the bolt goes through and then screws directly into the stand & shield. Cleaned most of the rust out with a nail set and then took the rest off with my roto zip cleaned up the inside and bolt lightily. it works fine know. great thing about metal despite all the rust the there was still nice shiny metal under there. How ever the same neglect that left the burner nearly ruined caused a light leak in the control valve and Psi regulator directly where it connects to the tank so Ill need a new one. I can only smell a little gas when runing but a little is a little to much. This means I will most likely delay the welding of my stand for a while and get some more fermenter space and cornys, while I get together the parts for the welder outlet. Ill throw some picks over the weekend
Reply:The breaker you will need looks something like this:The price is going to depend on the type of panel you have. The panel I have uses really cheap breakers, and I think I paid about $6 for mine. If you have a Siemens panel, they might run about $25. The reason you need a double breaker is because there are two 120v feeds coming into your breaker box. The frequency is 180 degrees out of phase with each other, and every other breaker slot is on one phase, and the other slots are on the other phase. They alternate. So to get 120v, you just hook into one breaker slot. To get 240v, you use two adjacent slots because they are out of phase by 180 degrees, thus giving you 240v of potential difference.
Reply:Yep that went over my head. I got some reading up to do thanks for the info man.
Reply:It's easy to install yourself:You'll need for an 8 foot run:- 20-24 feet of black 6 gauge copper wire- 10-12 feet of green 6 gauge copper wire- A double breaker, at least 30 amp for your needs, but up to 60 if you plan on using bigger stuff in the future- 10 feet of 3/4" or 1" conduit and fittings to attach it- An outlet- An outlet box and coverSteps:- Shut off main breaker- Take off panel cover (don't touch anything towards the top, it's still hot above the main breaker)- Knock a hole out of the bottom of the panel for conduit to your outlet- run 2 black 6 gauge wires and 1 green 6 gauge through the conduit to the box- in the panel, attach the green wire to your grounding bus bar- Attach one black wire to each half of your double breaker (order doesn't matter)- find two empty adjacent slots and pop the breaker into them- reinstall cover- At the outlet side, attach green to ground, and the two blacks to the other two terminals (order of the blacks doesn't matter)- install outlet and faceplate- Turn on main breaker and your new double breakerI'm assuming you need a 3 prong outlet.I just did three 60 amp circuits for an in floor hydronic boiler system and another 60 amp circuit for my welder. They took me about 5 minutes each, and I'm not an electrician.Use copper wire, don't use aluminum. Aluminum is not even legal in some areas. It can be used, but care has to be taken to ensure the connections don't come loose and make a poor connection that generates heat. I wouldn't even bother trying it, even though the price is attractive. Make sure all of your screw terminal connections are very tight, poor connections generate heat.
Reply:havent updated this thread in way too long. Old beer a luqour bottles make great support square tubing when your cutting it. A pile of quare ready to welded some amongst some shots of some welds some are really porous I am learning that this is either due to the wind when welding out side but it could also be that I have my gas turned up way to strong. Its kindof a double edged sword if I dont blast the gas a little I my welds go to shart at the slightest breez but then again the gas being to high folds into my bead and I get porous welds that way too. Also a shot of the work bench a few of the finished projectI have to stir the mash from a ladder Attached Imageshttp://www.leap.cc/cms/index.php
Reply:So far I have only been able to set up a turkey burners under the the pots on cinder block to brew the next job in the task is too actually attach some burners. Problem I am having is drilling threw the metal is a bitch with my little cordless hand drill any suggestions on a good bit that will do the job better. Plan is to take some angle iron and drill some holes in it about the size of the already set mounting holes for the burners I bought. Then put a dimond in the square so the burners will mount center. Attached Imageshttp://www.leap.cc/cms/index.php |
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